[Bungee]

For years, I've experienced wheel hop with my '78 T/A, and just assumed it was something I'd have to live with...I don't know much about performance cars [img]redface.gif[/img] .

But now that I'm doing research for my current 455 build, I'm realizing that the wheel hop may be the result of rear air shocks lifting the ass-end so high off the 275/60/15's . . . as I understand it, raising the rear end changes the suspension geometry in a negative way.

But I still want to retain my airshocks and keep the rear end raised high.

So I'm thinking of installing a set of Competition Engineering traction bars (I would have opted for Lakewood's, but they require you cut 1/2" off the sway bar ends). Are traction bars a good idea? Or am I using the wrong solution for this problem? . . . and are Competition Engineering traction bars a good product.

Thanks

[Bungee]

For years, I've experienced wheel hop with my '78 T/A, and just assumed it was something I'd have to live with...I don't know much about performance cars [img]redface.gif[/img] .

But now that I'm doing research for my current 455 build, I'm realizing that the wheel hop may be the result of rear air shocks lifting the ass-end so high off the 275/60/15's . . . as I understand it, raising the rear end changes the suspension geometry in a negative way.

But I still want to retain my airshocks and keep the rear end raised high.

So I'm thinking of installing a set of Competition Engineering traction bars (I would have opted for Lakewood's, but they require you cut 1/2" off the sway bar ends). Are traction bars a good idea? Or am I using the wrong solution for this problem? . . . and are Competition Engineering traction bars a good product.

Thanks

[Wayne79T/A]

I am no expert on suspension,,,,,,but,
I had a 79 T/A with a medium performance 403.
All it would do is spin the tires with air shocks
and traction bars.
I put stock shocks on it,removed the traction bars,put 255 60/15 tires on the back and all it
did was hook up after that.

My .02

[ta406pont]

If your really lookin for a great traction product buy a set of CalTracs the are the cat's a$$,a little exspensive but they are worth it.

Here's a Link
http://www.calvertracing.com/

Hope this helps
Rob..

[Bungee]

I checked out Cal Tracs and sent them a request for info.

Thanks for the tip

[Wayne79T/A]

My circle trac buddy-guru said it had someting to do with rear axle wrap up?

[Half-Inch Stud]

Traction Slap bars are a great item.

That's all I got back there to achieve 1.60 second 60'times...and avoid leafspring wrap.

Cal-Tracs look good, look smart...my J-Bolt Slapper bars were $40 though.

H.I. Stud

[455HOGT37]

Originally posted by Bungee:


But I still want to retain my airshocks and keep the rear end raised high.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Throw the airshocks away! When I was young I used airshocks on my 68 GTO to clear the N-50 Pro-Tracs. I was so proud my new 455 would blow them away until I put normal size tires under it with gas shocks and it suddenly hooked! Lesson learned: The air shocks are hurting you much more than the big tires are helping. Do a search and see how many of the experienced/fast guys have air shocks on their cars. Airshocks are pure evil, I tell you!

[Brian Baker]

As Homer would say to Flanders, air shocks suck-diddley-uck. They don't allow the suspension to work, which "amplifies" the wheel hop issues.

For street driving, replace them with a good gas shock. For traction bars, a simple slapper bar will get the job done, but if you want to get serious the Cal-Tracs are what you want. The Cal-tracs will require you to remove the springs to install new bushings in the front eye (solid aluminum, supplied by Calvert Racing) as well as the front pivot brackets. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the rear eye bushings at the same time.

[Half-Inch Stud]

I haven't got serious...yet the 1.6 60foot times are decent for rubber-bushed, 5-leaf with J-Bolt Slappers, 3.31 geared, 26"tiny tired steel car.

...must be the Q-Jet

[455HOGT37]

One other trick that worked for me is to get another set of rear springs and add a leaf or two to yours. You will remove the rubber spring isolators to make room, then select some of the longer leavs from your "new" set and use them in the same position on your car. My Bird had a few half leaves and that is where I added one of the new ones, so I ended up with one additional full and one half leaf. As long as you remember that the front of the spring pack is mostly a control arm and the rear half is your "spring", you can get what you want with a little parts swapping. As a bonus, you may be able to get away without those ugly traction bars. I saw a guy get "high centered" on a speed bump once. Now that is NOT the look you want, stereo blasting, trying to look cool in front of everyone on the cruise... and you are stuck, rear tires spinning wildly one half inch off the ground.

[Bungee]

Originally posted by 455HOGT37:
I saw a guy get "high centered" on a speed bump once. Now that is NOT the look you want, stereo blasting, trying to look cool in front of everyone on the cruise... and you are stuck, rear tires spinning wildly one half inch off the ground.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

[spamburger17]

You can also preload the leafs by attaching U bolts to the outter leafs and clamping them together slightly( the tighter, the more preload) itll help plant the tires some

[Half-Inch Stud]

...and remove the steel bands on the rearward leaf stack...for that ol' Chrysler look.

[ddouble]

As much as we may hate to admit it Chrysler had something right with the torsion bar front, loose leaf stack in the back and a pinion snubber. Some of those old Mopars would hook.

It sure did look funny when they would preload the suspension and the rear springs would spread like turkey feathers.

Dan

The DotRod rides again.