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#1
09-24-2002, 05:51 PM
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The control arm I just bought yesterday after driving an hour each way, removing bushings/balljoints this morning, taking to the sandblaster and then to a local auto shop to have the new PST bushings and balljoints put in is actually bent. Approximately 1/2" at the point where it bends to attach to the frame, just in front of the bushing. Shop here wants to heat the area and use a power spreader, then dunk it in water. Is this a workable solution? It was the last bushing they put in, the difficulty of putting it in led to the discovery.
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#2
09-24-2002, 05:51 PM
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The control arm I just bought yesterday after driving an hour each way, removing bushings/balljoints this morning, taking to the sandblaster and then to a local auto shop to have the new PST bushings and balljoints put in is actually bent. Approximately 1/2" at the point where it bends to attach to the frame, just in front of the bushing. Shop here wants to heat the area and use a power spreader, then dunk it in water. Is this a workable solution? It was the last bushing they put in, the difficulty of putting it in led to the discovery.
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#3
09-24-2002, 08:26 PM
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I'm no suspension expert, but... Hmmm.... Well, if it were mine, I would not like the idea of the heat,bend,dunk repair. I would try to find a replacement. I don't know anything about your mechanics either, but having done a few bushing replacements myself, it is easy to bend one while installing the new bushings, especially with a big hydraulic press. It wouldn't suprise me if the mechanic bent it while pressing the bushings either in or out. Check for signs of an impact (gouge or dent), this might tell of a wreck sometime in the past. Maybe someone else will chime in here, but I sure don't like the idea, not on a critical part.
Brakes?! We don't need no stinking brakes!
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Never trust a fart. They sometimes suprise you. http://community.webshots.com/user/motornoggin http://motornoggin.smugmug.com/ |
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#4
09-26-2002, 10:16 AM
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Do what I did...Lay the control arm onto a concrete surface. Sledge the arm with a hand-held 48Oz railroad spike drift. Arm will bend back easily. Surface finish will likely look fine. Spraypaint the blemished areas when done.
The control arms do not need heat-assist, and bend easily. I had my control arms powder coated, and found how difficult a new bushing or?and balljoint can be to install into such an interference fit. A rat-tail file was employed to remove excess powdercoat. Drift was use to restore control arm shape. H.I. "11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs"
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12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct |
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