#1  
Old 11-04-2019, 08:06 PM
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fbd73 fbd73 is offline
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Default Polishing up the shiney bits

Hi All,
My '73 Formula is nearly ready to in for paint and before I reassemble everything afterwards, I want to clean up all the shiney bits. I can't afford to get new items or have them all rechromed, so am wondering how I can polish up things. The rear bumper is in fairly good condition so I will leave it for now. The rear taillight surrounds aren't the best but are too expensive to buy or rechrome at this stage.

The things I really want to concentrate on are the front and rear windscreen mouldings, the headlight surrounds etc.
Those mouldings don't seem to be chrome.

Any advise on what to do and how will be greatly appreciated.

George.


Last edited by fbd73; 11-04-2019 at 08:14 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-05-2019, 01:23 AM
1965gp 1965gp is offline
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Can you post some pics? The window trim you can polish with a wheel. The headlight / tail light housings are chrome so you don’t have as many options there

  #3  
Old 11-05-2019, 08:19 AM
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77 Canamman 77 Canamman is offline
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The window trim on a 1973 is anodized aluminum. You can polish it if you strip the bright dip anodizing off of it, but then you would have to polish it occcasionally to remove the dullness. The roof drip and door sill moldings, if equipped, are stainless. They are far easier to remove scratches, and then buff to a beautiful shine.

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  #4  
Old 11-06-2019, 02:16 PM
Doright Doright is offline
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Hey guy's how do these look? These are some bits and pieces I have redone This is not Paint these have been Glass beaded and replated at home in my shop.

windshield wiper things Before


After


Lets see Door latches, trunk lock, door strikers, windshield thingy's


My favorite


Not bad looking 45 year old hardware in my opinion

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Last edited by Doright; 11-06-2019 at 02:37 PM.
  #5  
Old 11-06-2019, 02:23 PM
Doright Doright is offline
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After polishing Aluminum you can re anodize the Aluminum parts in clear or many other colors for that matter to protect them, a Lot of plating shops offer Anodizing.
It can also be done at a home or shop with correct equipment. I do some plating myself now and have looked into doing my own Anodizing but havnt gotten the chemicals for it yet or the new Tanks lol. Plus I need a new pump larger pump.

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  #6  
Old 11-06-2019, 08:49 PM
Aus78Formula Aus78Formula is offline
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They look good. Not always terribly correct for restoration guys, but for the rest of us, a very neat alternative to the condition before.

FBD73, you're in Aus. I picked up a polishing wheel from a shop that does nothing but. If you take you're time and practice on some parts that are spare before moving onto long, fragile trim strips, it's actually quite easy and relaxing. As mentioned, be aware that the windscreen trims can only be buffed so much before you start to take the surface coating off, often you can see dull areas where already thin. Polishing this will add a shine to the surface but it won't blend the darker grey aluminium into the brighter coating around it. Also, be aware that the repro strips are rubbish generally and that these strips cost a fortune to have shipped over, if you find any in good condition, and then they still arrive destroyed by rough handling and sellers who don't pack correctly. And that is hard to justify adding an extra 150 in shipping. So take care. Try to have a paint shop lined up that actually shows interest and sticks to their word or you'll still have a shell and 2 garages of boxed and labelled parts for the next 10 years like mine.


Last edited by Aus78Formula; 11-06-2019 at 09:05 PM.
  #7  
Old 11-06-2019, 11:47 PM
Doright Doright is offline
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Cadmium plating is cadmium plating? Clear or Blued or Gold same type stuff used by all manufactures.

Those parts were as removed after plating and a quick dip in the Blue Chromate for protection, admittedly I did leave that Break proportioning valve in a little to long its a bit dark. but for any one looking to redo a few small parts and some hardware? its the way to go, all I do is Glass bead de-grease and Plate then dip in Chromate or polish a little then dip in Chromate I have even cleared the stuff for additional protection.

The Black hardware was a Cold Black Oxide blackening system that I invested in and spent a lot of money on that doesn't last in the elements unless the special protective coating is tirelessly reapplied often. I don't suggest using any Cold Black Oxide system at this time and do not recommend it's use.
I found a local company in town that does HOT Black oxide coating by the pound for hardware and small parts for me.

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