[61-63]

I just picked up a car and it has a Centerforce DXF 11" clutch and a hydraulic throwout bearing. Not very many miles on the car. At the start and end of engaging and disengaging the clutch it is very stiff so much so that the car jumps starting off. It is much easier after the upper end of the arc. Any suggestions. The Centerforce site says the DXF is a light clutch but not this one.

[Scott65]

Anything to do with the rod/linkage between the clutch pedal and master cylinder is where I'd be looking. Also maybe bleed the system. The one(and only) hydraulic TO bearing I've installed/used worked very well. But due to some unclear instructions, it took two tries... Hopefully you were given the information necessary to find some installation instructions to verify it's set up correctly. The clearance of the TO bearing itself is important and usually comes with shims to get it adjusted right, but it may be difficult(or impossible) to do with everything assembled.

[tom s]

I drove this car and it acts to me like a manual clutch that has a over center spring.Much diff from any of my cars even one that has a hyd bearing and it’s with a 2800 lb B&B Mcleod in it.Tom

[61-63]

Actually I'm figuring this deal out myself. The man I bought the car from sent me a big binder with dividers and all of the documentation for the various components he had installed on the car including the hydraulic clutch. In the trouble shooting part of the clutch instructions it says “the most common cause for high pedal effort is having the pushrod connected too low on the pedal. Moving the pushrod connection point up closer to the pedal pivot point will reduce pedal effort. Doing this may also require the master cylinder be repositioned. If the pushrod is not straight in line with the master cylinder, that will also cause increased pedal effort and will wear the master cylinder prematurely.”

I looked under the dash and there are two holes in the pedal for pushrod attachment and the rod is attached to the lower hole and this does make the shaft enter the master cylinder at an angle from the underside. Unfortunately the other hole appears to be too high IMO and may make the rod enter the master cylinder at an angle from the upper side. I’m going to move the rod up to the upper hole and try it and if it works I’m home free. If the upper attaching point doesn’t fix the problem I’ll make a “t” bracket and bolt it to the pedal shaft using the two existing holes and use it to create an attaching point for the rod half way between the two existing holes, which should be about right. This process will take me awhile but I’ll come back when I’m done and share the results.

[XLR8STEVE]

Adjustable firewall mounts are the ticket. They allow you to tilt the master cylinder to the angle of the pushrod so you can use that upper hole. Get the stroke exactly parallel to the bore and you will see the difference.
American powertrain, SST and the hydraulic cylinder companies sell them.

[Scott65]

Originally Posted by 61-63

Actually I'm figuring this deal out myself. The man I bought the car from sent me a big binder with dividers and all of the documentation for the various components he had installed on the car including the hydraulic clutch. In the trouble shooting part of the clutch instructions it says “the most common cause for high pedal effort is having the pushrod connected too low on the pedal. Moving the pushrod connection point up closer to the pedal pivot point will reduce pedal effort. Doing this may also require the master cylinder be repositioned. If the pushrod is not straight in line with the master cylinder, that will also cause increased pedal effort and will wear the master cylinder prematurely.”

I looked under the dash and there are two holes in the pedal for pushrod attachment and the rod is attached to the lower hole and this does make the shaft enter the master cylinder at an angle from the underside. Unfortunately the other hole appears to be too high IMO and may make the rod enter the master cylinder at an angle from the upper side. I’m going to move the rod up to the upper hole and try it and if it works I’m home free. If the upper attaching point doesn’t fix the problem I’ll make a “t” bracket and bolt it to the pedal shaft using the two existing holes and use it to create an attaching point for the rod half way between the two existing holes, which should be about right. This process will take me awhile but I’ll come back when I’m done and share the results.

Can you get a picture of the attachment at the clutch pedal? There was a way on the kit I used for the bracket itself to mount two different ways which obviously doubled the chance of wrong options... In my case I got that wrong on the first try. After correcting that, getting the alignment and hence ratio right was more obvious.

[61-63]

It took me until today to get back to this and it turned out to be exactly what the trouble shooting section in the documentation said; I moved the master cylinder rod from the lower of the two holes in the pedal to the higher hole and that fixed it. Easy now.

[Scott65]

Good news! Glad it was fairly easy.

[tempest1964]

Thanks for sharing John.