[David Holmberg]

**Only post first hand, Factual, pertinent information in this thread. Any posts that are not directly on topic will be deleted and the poster will receive a vacation from PY, no speculation, and no second hand information. This will be the only warning**

[Red Box Rebel]

1. On behalf of a couple of clients, I have spoken with the owner of KRE about his MR-1 block. Additionally, I have sent him a statutory notice letter that will give the business owners 60 days to respond and/or correct any claims that have been made.

2. So far the KRE people have been reasonable in the conversations that I have had with them. At this point, I would like to give them the time to fully respond and investigate the claim.

3. I am confident that after a cooling off period and a chance to review their manufacturing process, coupled with an examination of the suspect blocks, this manufacturer/supplier will take appropriate action.

4. In the interim, I would appreciate no piling on of either side in this matter.

5. The hobby needs confident consumers and strong/quality suppliers. That is why I am confident that this will work out to the satisfaction of all parties. If it does not, everyone will know and then you will be able to judge for yourselves.

[Tom Vaught]

Thanks for your help in this critical matter. Sometimes a third party can help resolve issues far quicker vs one against one.

Tom V.

[Ray Cox]

if you can give me a call I have 6 names and numbers that have not been posted or send me your info they have already asked for it. I have found 2 more MR1 owners today that had no idea this post or issue existed I wll ask them if they want there info released as well.

[Ray Cox]

these are just ariving pics of some of the fasteners in block1

[Ray Cox]

more

[Tom Vaught]

What is the thickness of the Nut for that stud, Ray?

Tom V.

[ponchospidel]

wich nut thicknes, wich stud?" the standard arp nuts messure .5005" for all except the rear they are .5585".

[455_regal]

I see you measured the thread hole in the block, but how long are the threads on the stud.

[Tom Vaught]

That is the last dimension we need Brad. Thread length on both ends of the center main cap studs.

Tom V.

[Ron H]

It looks to me that the end of the studs and the bottom of the holes are marred as though the studs bottomed out in the hole. Hard to tell in a picture though.

[455_regal]

In not a wise man, I live by real world experiences, and the issue is in the main cap-studs.....The crank is supported my 5 caps, one cap area cant break, all of them would have to give...unless that one cap area is already stressed ( too long of stud+ ftlbs of torque) plus you add the forward and backwards movement of the thrust....eventually its going to crack (doesnt help the block looks to be very corse) IMO.

[Tom Vaught]

There was over .125 clearance from the stud installed position and the bottom hole. You are not seeing what you think in the pics apparently.

You guys are doing the same thing you did on the brinell testing prior to the block pics being posted, shooting from the hip vs using good engineering common sense.

If the block was machined correctly on every main cap hole (you hope it was) and the proper length fasteners were used in each position, then you would have seen the cracking in every bolt position on the #2, #3, and #4 mains I did not see any cracking on the #3 main or on the other bolt positions. Only #2 and #4 outer positions. Tell me why you have that deal. I would bet that all of the fasteners are with-in .015" of each other for length for the given positions. These are ARP parts.
Look at the original pictures Ray posted on Brad's block. The #3 outer main cap hole and web looks perfect in terms of no cracking.

I am waiting for the answers gentlemen.

Tom V.

[ponchospidel]

yes tom, that is all i and my dad want, along with restition. thank you!

[Ray Cox]

like tom said your shooting from the hip

Please everyone stop and think about it a minute

STOP THINK

if a bolt or stud was too long and it were tightened it would not touch the cap!

Look at the bearings people do you think your bearings would look like that if you under torqued your mains or rods? in a sence you under torquing is the same thing as these fasteners being to long and not pushing on the cap

also remember Tom moons motor which the pics are not up yet but I described the Caps were still bolted to the part of the block and the bearings were still inside. and in good condition!

brads & his dads block were still together the bolts were in and the block was detroyed around it


THESE BLOCKS ARE STRECHING OR RIPPING THEM SELVES APART

STOP AND THINK AGAIN

WHAT DOES THE MAIN STUDS HAVE TO DO WITH THE HEADS SURFACE?

the head surfaces are all warped after 1-2 dozen passe in all these blocks

STOP AND THINK AGAIN

the Bores are wore there is a ridge in there you can see in the pics these cylinders look like they have 5 seasons on them and have 1-2 dozen passes

the brineel is low

ALL OF THES THINGS POINT TO THEE BLOCK BEING SOFT

for get all of that who cares if there soft or hard good or bad DO YOU WANT YOUR FRIEND OR FAMILY MEMBER TO RUN THIS BLOCK WITHOUT CHECkING IT? How hard is it to check ? there are close to 1/2 dozen blocks in pieces and more that have proven issues. with that many problems lets leave all the what is wrong for KRE , the lawyers and customers to sort out. we should be trying to let people know the potential problem so they can check there parts out and make there own conclusion if we dont let them know and keep denying it and making excuses then when somthing happens those that denid it can share the blame WE DONT NEED ANY CARS FINDING THIS OUT AT THE TOP END! and if there safty isnt your concern think about being in the lane next to tom moon when his crank came out and went 100 yards that is if any of you race anything other than a key board!

[Doug Christie]

Originally Posted by Ron H

It looks to me that the end of the studs and the bottom of the holes are marred as though the studs bottomed out in the hole. Hard to tell in a picture though.

Ron, I think what you're seeing is a mixture of oil and metal from handling the parts. It's on the threads as well as the flats of the nuts and the calipers.

[455_regal]

if you dont want opinions then stop posting this on every website possible and wait till the final outcome.

[Ray Cox]

Originally Posted by 455_regal

if you dont want opinions then stop posting this on every website possible and wait till the final outcome.

your a fool & stupid if you thjink its being posted for oppinions and if your stupid enough to think that then we shurely dont need yours Slow down stop anr read it again and maybe you will see the reason its being posted everywhere

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by 455_regal

if you dont want opinions then stop posting this on every website possible and wait till the final outcome.

I don't think Ray is looking for an opinion, per se. What he is trying to achieve is to show that there are MR1 blocks out there with issues...major issues...and that there's enough of them with issues out there that for anyone that owns one, they should have it checked out thoroughly before they go racing with it, or continue to race with it.

The racer that drove over his crankshaft and wrecked his car was lucky. His situation could have turned lethal. It's never too soon to check your gear and make sure it's safe.

God, I hope this post doesn't get me banned again.:rolleyes:

[Ray Cox]

Thanks Brian your right and so far we know that due to this post 3 more people avoided the same possible thing because the block pics are of there motors and they thought they were fine and ready to race.