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#1
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Water pump sleeves question
Quick question, I’m running an 11 bolt Flowkooler pump with a carefully measured .040 gap between the divider plate and the impeller. However, during the gap measuring/adjusting trial and error, I noticed that the two coolant sleeves are a bit of a loose fit behind the plate. I’d estimate about 1/8” of wiggle room for each sleeve. Is this normal or should the sleeves be butted against the plate with no wiggle? Can’t remember what it was on my last build. Many thanks.
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#2
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The sleeves each should have a rubber seal that inserts into the sleeve and butts up against the steel divider plate to effect a seal.
Most complete engine gasket sets come with those two round rubber seals. The seals dry up and shrink, replacing these seals is often overlooked during a water pump change.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
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#3
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Quote:
Gotcha, thanks B-man. I got the sleeves at Summit, they appear correct, have the rubber flange at the contact point and seem okay. The divider plate is also brand new and had been in one of my parts boxes for 14-15 years! Can’t remember the source, probably eBay. I’m delighted to finally get to use it, but its probably the culprit causing the issue. I’ll pick up a couple of thick, 1” O rings, or better yet cut 1/8” rings from a foot of 1” ID heater hose. Slip them behind the shoulder of the sleeves. That’ll kick the sleeves out just far enough to contact the plate and solve the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#4
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I don't know anything about the Flowcooler pump, never found the need for one. But the sleeves and seals need to fit in such a way that their is light compression between the rubber rings and the divider plate. Can't have leaks there. I have found it necessary to shim the sleeves on the back side to provide a proper fit. I used slightly modified valve spring shims to accomplish this. It's a rather easy repair. I will look for some pics of the process.
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#5
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Here are some pics to help you accomplish the repair. Shims are .060" thick each.
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#6
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Excellent, thank you! Valve spring shims would be perfect and I don’t have to worry about them melting if the motor gets hot (which it better not ). I was thinking that some kind of metal washer would be great, but any typical washer with a 1.00” ID is going to be way too big on the OD. But valve spring shims, just perfect. Solutions like this are why I love this place, lol. Thanks again mgarblik. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Who would have ever thought of that. That's a brilliant idea, Mike. I like the Stock cast iron impellers the best.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#9
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Yes I have been using new pumps with the cast iron impeller. Last couple Pontiacs, I have been using a Chinese Pump. GNB brand. I have to admit, it's a very nice piece. New cast aluminum housing, cast iron impeller. Nice machining. They are around $70.00 on Amazon an available from multiple sources. One of the very few really nice Chinese parts I have come across.
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#10
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Sealing that area is important. I am cheap and need to solve problems. So you just do it. I can say my 500 HP Catalina will not run over 180 degrees now, no matter what you do, no matter how hot outside and no matter how long it idles. I do run a clutch fan and a shroud. 62 model.
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