[nightwrencher]

pisses me off, it took me five years to finally plop the money down for one of these a/f ratio guage kits and it doesn't work for crap. followed instructions to the tee, sodered the tiny wire connections, grounded as described directly to cylinder head. when the guage functions, it's irratic anf the a/f is all over the place. i hooked up an old laptop to slow the af timeframe but still jumps from like 10:1 to 16:1 etc, it just ain't right. and half the time I hook the laptop to it it errors, and half the time I start it, it errors just flashing "7.4". I also tried resetting the calibration. after looking on thneir website, seems like a lot of people have issues. innovate not much help, just askeed me if I hadf a big cam.....who doesn't who would buy it (mines only 230/240, pont 400 10:1). even at higher rpm and load, no rational readings, anyone got anyh helpful info, I feel like an a$$ for wasting over $200 on a pos that I thought would be a great tunin g tool.

[baron_]

Mine works really well.

Where do you have your air sensor mounted, how far downstream?
And how far from the exit? You'll get snips of air that will drive your sensor crazy if it's too close to the edge.


More info, i'll try to help

[Mike S]

I just got inovates LM2. I know it's not the same. Mine workes great tuned one car so far which has a good cam in it (235/244).I am waiting to do the race car at the track. I know with mine you have to remove the sensor to calibrate it don't know if yours is like that. Agree with checking for leaks a header leak would give funny reading. Check that the bung is welded completly around. Is your O2 sensor in the exshaust stream? Mine is actually out of the stream and in the bung. Also you will show a lean condition if you have incomplet combustion (unburned fuel).
I had trouble getting mine to work at fist. Was getting funky reading, high low and off the wall.
I removed everything and brought it down my basement. Hooked it up and held the O2 sensor in the flue of my gas boiler. It worked perfect. Forget what the reading was but it was nice and steady. Put it back in the car and it worked pefectly. Have no idea what that was all about. But it worked.

[nightwrencher]

got mine in the collector adapter. about 8" fdrom end of long tube header. thought about this, mentioned it to innovate, they didn't say an issue. where did you place yours?

[baron_]

Originally Posted by nightwrencher

got mine in the collector adapter. about 8" fdrom end of long tube header. thought about this, mentioned it to innovate, they didn't say an issue. where did you place yours?

So, you've got it like 2" from where the different pipes meet?

I could see it having different, weird readings.

I think you need a foot or so of unified collector......so there's a more consistent reading??


I have mine about 18" after the collector. Long enough after the collector that the individual pulses of each cylinder won't have a large effect

[Superchief455]

Originally Posted by nightwrencher

got mine in the collector adapter. about 8" fdrom end of long tube header. thought about this, mentioned it to innovate, they didn't say an issue. where did you place yours?

The O2 sensor doesn't like to be exposed to the high exhaust pressure, so a high flowing cat and free flowing exhaust system is preferable. Mount the O2 in the exhaust system at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port as the extreme temperatures of the exhaust can harm the sensor. The sensors internal heater will warm the sensor to the optimum operating temperature. If available, On turbocharged engines the sensor must be installed after the turbo charger, if not, the pressure differential will greatly effect the accuracy of the unit. In applications with a catalytic converter, the sensor must be mounted BEFORE the converter. In applications with an auxiliary air pump, the sensor must be mounted BEFORE the pump input to the exhaust stream. Installation angle should be inclined at least 10° towards horizontal (most claim between 10 and 2 position) which prevents the collection of liquids between sensor housing and sensor element during the cold start phase.
The Bosch LSU4.2 wide-band O2 sensor is rated to operate at an exhaust gas temperature of 1300 degrees, and a sensor housing temperature of 900 degrees for maximum accuracy and control. When either of these operating temperature ranges is exceeded, the sensor can no longer be accurately controlled. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should either install a copper heat sink or a Heat-Sink Bung extender I have installed quite a few of these systems and and have not had any "issues".

HTH

[pontiacjeff468]

this most likely wont help you but where is the lc-1 mounted? I have the same set up on my lemans and i mounted it up on the wheel well around the brake line coming out of the master . For some reason it would never work right and I thought i tried everything, then just happened to lay my jean jacket over it, and all was good . so the plug wires where leaking some type of electric surge or something into the lc-1's . so I just re-mounted it a little farther away and it runs fine. I was using an hei distributor with an in cap accel super coil and brand new msd super conductor wires

[Jason Rogers]

You need to slow down the sampling rate so it doesn't take readings inbetween cylinder pulses. You should do a free air calibration with it out of the exhaust pipe. Then go in and program it for 10-18 AFR and 2.5 to 2.5 volts with the LC-1's software(not hpt). Run the hpt scanner with the wb offset calculation screen open. The scanner should read 14.0 (half way between 10 and 18 afr) average. If it doesn't, add or subtract from the offset value. Re-run the scanner and see how much it moved. Once you get it close (put the decimals out 3 places then when your done put it back to 1 place), take it for a ride and see if the cruising afr is 14.7. But don't forget to go back into the LC-1's software and set the voltage to 0 min and 5 max.


Read my post #20 here:
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...configure+lm-1

[67 Lamnas]

Originally Posted by Jason Rogers

You need to slow down the sampling rate so it doesn't take readings inbetween cylinder pulses. You should do a free air calibration with it out of the exhaust pipe. Then go in and program it for 10-18 AFR and 2.5 to 2.5 volts with the LC-1's software(not hpt). Run the hpt scanner with the wb offset calculation screen open. The scanner should read 14.0 (half way between 10 and 18 afr) average. If it doesn't, add or subtract from the offset value. Re-run the scanner and see how much it moved. Once you get it close (put the decimals out 3 places then when your done put it back to 1 place), take it for a ride and see if the cruising afr is 14.7. But don't forget to go back into the LC-1's software and set the voltage to 0 min and 5 max.


Read my post #20 here:
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...configure+lm-1

Geez.....I'm glad a I bought a FAST....

[taff2]

Geez.....I'm glad a I bought a FAST....
I'm beginning to wish I had too, what Jason just said is all gobbledegook to me.

[nightwrencher]

I slowed down the sampling rate to slowest, o2 is 6-8" after end of header(on exh pipe, not actual header), and lc-1 is mounted on frasme totally aeway from heat/ingnition. will try to play more this weekend

[amcmike]

How is it powered? Maybe something going on with your power signal?

I'd try it on another vehicle if possible to see if it's your setup or something with the unit. Anybody have one that works in your area? A speed shop with a dyno that would be willing to swap it in for a quick check?

I don't have a gage now, but mine is setup for it (fitting for a sensor in each bank). At the time I had access to borrow a professional meter, and the readings were solid so I know I can get a clean reading with the proper equipment (used the cigartte lighter port for power). But you'd have to pay for shipping to SC both ways.

Can you send it to Innovate and have them check it?