[TIAUTOMAN]

Im guessing they are 10#s. I have 3/4 to 12 for the heads. and -12 90s. they do not clear the
dist on the driver side.
I will return these tommorrow or monday and get
10's and try again.

[TIAUTOMAN]

What do you think?

[Old Man Taylor]

I believe they are two #10's into one #12. I will check the car tomorrow to see if I have enough access to confirm it. I did have to manipulate the 90's to get distributor clearance.

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[Philcol]

What problem would you have if you capped of all the heater fittings and did not run this by-pass set up. Other than no heater of course. Do you need this mod to get good water flow thru heads?

Phil

[Dave Schiffers]

I hope this is understandable.
I'd like to improve cool ability and yet retain the heater core for my Canadian spring and fall seasons....must be able to clear the dew on the windows in the cool spring and fall mornings and evenings.

Would there still be a benifit to running
the drivers side to a passenger-side "T",
and then threw the heater core????? then,
to the water pump?? or the intake???

[GTOken]

Im convinced there is no benefit in adding a driver side water connection. I could tell no temperature difference in my system which I connected both heads together even when I stopped ALL flow through the lines. Think about it, those connections flow a minuscule amount of water as it relates to the entire system flow. Maybe if one used tubing the size of the water passage holes it would actually make a difference.

I say either leave it as the original setup or leave it off altogether.

********************************
CCASS: Where is the POST PREVIEW you promised?
********************************
.................................
'68 GTO, '68 Firebird, '77 CanAm

[Brian Baker]

Good thread!

I did the same thing with my fittings that John did, only I took the stock nipple fittings, cut the nipple off, and welded a -6an fitting onto the base of the stock nipple fitting. It serves the same purpose as John's setup, but affords more distributor clearance as it will place the 90 degree fitting closer to the head.

I'll post a pic tomorrow.

[Ron]

When I built the motor for my GTO I had a heating problem if I were to get stopped at a long stop light or at a train stop. I put Red Line's water wetter in the radiator and that reduced the temperature.

When the car was down for painting I took the engine apart. sealed all holes and poured muratic acid inside it. Did this a number of times and you would not believe how much #@#&&)**&*) came out of the engine. And this after the block and heads were cleaned and hot tanked before assembly the first time. This process dramatically reduced my engine temperatures and I have never had a problem since. FWIW, the motor is a 455 +.060.

It is my intention with my new Firebird motor to do exactly as others have done, run the water from the back of the heads to the crossover.

One point of clarification. I did not build the engine nor did I do the acid work. My friend, Lee Anderson, built the engine and did the acid work. The acid work was his idea and for me at least it worked. Been in the car for 11 years runs great and starts every time I ask it to.

Ron

[r hammons]

i have seen this done on several fast pontiacs,also seen the by pass hole on the intake pluged, what is the benifit or purpose of this modifacation? still in the middle of a winter rebuild ,might try this ,

[1badgoat]

I have heard people say good things about "Water Wetter" Does anyone have any experience with this? If so how much of a difference did it make? ( Degrees ? )

1967 HO coupe

[rumair]

i'm reading this thread and wondering how in the heck my car doesn't overheat every time i drive it.

the nipple on the back of my pass. side head is capped with a hose end, the coolant crossovers in the heads are filled with aluminum and the outlet (i guess that's what it's called) on the pass. side of the front cover is capped with a hose end as well. i do have a 180* thermostat, big radiator (i've always assumed it's the stock radiator), and a belt driven flex fan. my car never runs above 185-190 when i drive it for extended periods of time on the street.

am i lucky, or will the combination of a fan, thermostat and big radiator do the trick every time?

97 Trans Am WS6
Best ET: 12.13
Best MPH 114.6
74 Formula 455
Best ET: 12.02
Best MPH: 112

[TIAUTOMAN]

Ive used waterwetter on a few vehicles
One my 65GTO with no change ( I think other problmes were the cause)

A 1 ton dually 454 (98)
Dropped temp 7 to 8 degreese in July In PHX W/AC on

[455HOGT37]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Jon Burchmore:
The nipple is short because I managed to split it right down the middle on the first try. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I cut mine off flush with the cover, then split it down the middle anyway... All the way to the gasket surface! Live and learn, I welded it closed and smoothed it over. Got to be careful with pipe thread and brittle aluminum.

[BradZZ]

Noticed the water jacket portion of the intake is cut away from the carb side. Did you cut the intake and How? My water pump to intake bolt striped out of my Alum manifold. I was thinking of cutting the water jacket off an iron one. If a Sawzall could do it? and removing the alum water jacket. Ive always had a bad water sealing problem with this intake (it was used) Leaked at the head 2 yrs ago today it leaks at the water pump. I was thinking the cast iron would seal better at the water parts, and keep the better alum design for the carb side!

[gearbanger]

I am interested in doing this y-branch, or cylinder head connection to the intake crossover, but here is my question. Does it really make the heads run cooler or does it just fool the temperature guage by not allowing alot of water to flow through the heads and bypassing it straight back to the intake manifold? Has anyone done this modification who has their temperature sending unit in the heads?

[grandville455]

Has anyone done this to a rpm manifold yet?Looks like alot more cutting on one?

Grandville455

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by grandville455:
Has anyone done this to a rpm manifold yet?Looks like alot more cutting on one?

Grandville455<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I just finished my mods on a performer rpm. I should have installed the drivers side fitting a little closer to the thermostat opening. Had very little clearence between the fitting and the bottom of the intake. Here are a cpl of pics. I still need to find a nicer looking hose clamp for the rear fittings. I used 1/2 NPT in the crossover and -10 hoses. The fittings in the crossover are Earl's pn 824510. They asr a little pricy but take up less room than the normal 1/2 to -10 and a hose end.

Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

2nd pic.

Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

[gearbanger]

You can get those Spectra fake fittings that have a red Hex nut that slides up over a regular hose clamp dirt cheap at AutoZone. That would be plenty good for the back of the motor.

[Old Man Taylor]

67 455 Bird ragtop - Very nice looking implementation.

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