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#1
03-29-2015, 08:56 AM
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one piece rear main question
The instructions say that the BOP one piece rear main seal can be installed without removing the crank from the engine. Has anyone had success doing it this way?
Thanks! Last edited by wrongway; 03-29-2015 at 09:36 AM. Reason: forgot a word |
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#2
03-29-2015, 10:50 AM
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I have done 2 bop one piece seals in car no problems
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2008KRE Q16 Winner 2014 atco raceway doorslammer winner 86 grand am tube car 8.95 @152 455 eheads solid flat tappet cam Hoffman Racing building and racing Pontiacs for 35 years |
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#3
03-29-2015, 11:04 AM
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What's the philosophy behind these? Similar to the fractured rod approach?
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 ___________________________________ "Objects in mirror are closer than they appear" 
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#4
03-30-2015, 12:15 AM
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Yes but BOP lets the buyer breaks the seal.
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Bull Nose Formula-461, 6x-4, Q-jet, HEI, TH400, 8.5 3.08, superslowjunk |
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#5
03-30-2015, 02:51 AM
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I did the 1 piece seal in this rebuild this time. It takes 2 to install it. I don't see how 1 guy could do it by his self unless he's really strong. Thats because of the way or should I say where the split in the 1 piece seal has to be. It has to be on the bottom.
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#6
04-01-2015, 09:40 AM
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#7
04-01-2015, 10:37 AM
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When I say it takes 2 guys to do it , I should have said it is best to have 2 guys do it. If you have 2 to lower the crank into place it makes it go a lot easier. The seal will go into place without any concerns & when you lower it with the help you can lower it a little bit at a time so the seal can be lined up & put into place without any need for you to pull it back up & down to get the seal in place in the groove so it sits down in place with out it moving around thus making sure it is in the groove correctly .
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#8
04-02-2015, 03:03 AM
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Placing the seal on the crank out of the engine was somewhat of a frightful experience since the seal only flexes at a point 180° opposite the cut (both sides are metal reinforced except for a small area top and bottom). That little section of seal takes all the flexing, but at least you can slide the seal on sideways and help relieve some of the stress. Not sure if I want to see what gymnastics and gyrations the seal would have to go through with the crank in place.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
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#9
04-02-2015, 11:56 AM
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It's not that the seal has to flex when you are installing it but by having 2 people put in the crank you can lower it down slowly so the seal can be put in place & then lowered in place so it will be in the seal groove when you lower it in place . If you try to do it by yourself there is a chance that the seal will go in & will be off center & then won't seal the way it should.With 2 it's lowered straight down in to the seal groove with out any thing out of place.
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#10
04-02-2015, 01:15 PM
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The one-piece seal takes considerable flexing to fit it over the crank before the crank is dropped in place. It is going from ends touching where it was cut with the razor blade to being spread wide enough to get over the crank - over 3" of spread, and all the spread is taken up by a small area of the area of the seal 180° away from the cut since the two steel inserts prevent either side from opening up. Sort of looks like this () with the bottom being cut and the top "rubber" flexing to open up the two halves.
I agree that it takes at least two people to slowly set the crank in place as it takes some effort in feeding the seal into the slot even after it has been placed around the crank. It has a tendency to catch on the corner of the groove and hang up unless it is kept directly in line. I don't think it is really possible to twist the one piece seal up enough to feed it from one end while the crank is in place. Someone successfully feeding the one-piece seal into the slot with the crank in place would be a good video to watch.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
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#11
04-02-2015, 02:47 PM
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Someone needs to post a video of it being installed, start to finish.
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Let me have a Diablo sandwich and a Dr. Pepper and make it fast---I'm in a goddamn hurry! - Mike 1967 GTO 
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#12
04-03-2015, 07:33 PM
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When you cut the seal with a razor blade, is the cut just straight thru or is it on an angle?
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1970 Lemans Sport, PPR 383/4spd. |
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#13
04-04-2015, 12:30 AM
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I cut mine straight through because it says to cut it radially. Radially means straight through across the dace of the item.
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#14
04-04-2015, 12:42 AM
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Yeah, straight through. I had a friend that got a little wobbly making the cut and it ended up a little saw toothed, but the ragged cut didn't seem to make a difference. The nice thing about the one piece seal is the opening is at 12:00 and it is pretty much high and dry up there.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
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#15
04-04-2015, 05:45 AM
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Thank you for the confirmation, gonna give this a shot today!
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1970 Lemans Sport, PPR 383/4spd. |
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#16
10-06-2015, 10:36 PM
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The directions on this seal say "liberally lubricate the groove between the seal lips with high temperature grease prior to assembly".
Can someone give me an example of what specific kind of grease are you supposed to use?
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#17
10-07-2015, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
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#18
10-07-2015, 06:45 PM
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The only thing I can even find locally that is marked as "high temp" grease is high temp wheel bearing grease. Can I use that?
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#19
10-08-2015, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
My motor was on the engine stand and all together (Short Block) I lifted the crank a bit and installed the seal. went in pretty easy. GT. |
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