[killakev]

Hi all,

I figured I would document my conversion from a Muncie 4-speed to a Silversport Perfect-Fit TKO 5-speed model. Some history first - My 68 GTO came to me with a 4-speed conversion from originally being born with an automatic. It has a either 64 or 65 Muncie M20 in it. 3.55 posi in the rear, great wild car on the street....sucks on the highway...you know the deal. For me since it isn't completely original and the highway problem bothered me, I decided to drop the money and do it when SilverSport had a nice sale. You can check out their site by googling silversport transmissions. My experience with manual transmissions? Very little so consider me a newbie, that's why I asked a friend of mine, another big Pontiac guy who says he swapped many autos to manuals, to help me out.......

So I love this car but just wished I had just one more gear.....every time I drove the car. So here I am now going through the swap. I'd like to share with all my experiences, struggles and hopefully triumph. Maybe some great pointers for other from my struggles.

So here it goes - In the last week I have dropped the driveshaft and tranny and bellhousing. Not too bad in one evening. With Tremec transmissions you MUST dial in the bellhousing. If you don't you will void your warranty, likely have bearing problems in 2 months and experience hard shifts. Some of you may know all about this "bellhousing dialing" others may not. You can go to Youtube and watch a few videos about how to do it. For me took a few days to really grasp it. One of my biggest problems was setting up a dial indicator to actually perform the task. All the videos showed the dial already in place and ready to go. I did find a very helpful video that cleared a majority of my questions, check it out here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzc2tmFKUhI&t=225s

Yeah...bell house alignment....so just figure you will need to adjust your bellhousing. I think if you don't...you should play the lottery and become a millionaire. A funny thing in the install instructions.... "Do not let anyone tell you differently...you must dial in the bell housing" . I took this to heart because my guy (helper) did say," let's just put this ****er in...". Nope - not doing that sorry. So do some research and watch the videos on Youtube.

To make things short, I'm bypassing the dialing procedure. You can contact me if you have question after watching all of those videos. So after bell house dial in, found it to be out of spec. Has to be 0.005". Again watch the videos.

I ordered offset dowels from Sliversport. They are awesome in guiding you in what you need, just call them.

Ha HA so now you need to remove your stock dowels.....Your're ****ed.
Don't watch youtube videos on this...Drilling and threading the dowels? HA HA ****ed.
The only way we had success was to take a high grade bolt and weld the bolt head to the dowel after grinding and cleaning the dowel. This was a bitch for sure..Picture a long bolt with threads., the head fused to the dowel... a large socket to push against the bock to allow the dowel to move into the socket. A few washers to sit on the other edge of the socket and a nut to thread on the threaded end of the bolt that is coming out of the socket hole.

It took heat and PB blaster in sequence. Sucked for sure but they did come out. Torture

Now I wait for the offset dowels to dial in the bellhousing.. The whole process will start again.The dowel removal was a real struggle but that is done. Start again on Monday, 3/16. Here

[Scarebird]

xxx

[FrankieT/A]

Ok let's see what your bolt holes want after the dial in...

[cdrookie]

I welded a nut on the dowels with my 110 wire feeder, and immediately hit it with penetrating oil, they twisted right out. I did have to slightly open up the bolt holes on my older McLeod bellhousing once I dialed it in to my liking.

[killakev]

Originally Posted by cdrookie

I welded a nut on the dowels with my 110 wire feeder, and immediately hit it with penetrating oil, they twisted right out. I did have to slightly open up the bolt holes on my older McLeod bellhousing once I dialed it in to my liking.

Good idea if I need a hair of more room. My reading was 0.006, 0.005 being in spec so not a lot to adjust the bellhousing

[PontiacJim1959]

The TKO alignment is important. The older transmissions that these cars came from the factory with have ball bearings and are somewhat forgiving if not perfectly aligned. The Tremec uses taper bearings and must be aligned or future problems can arise. You must also use the correct/suggested trans fluid.

An alternative for alignment is the Browell Bellhousing alignment tool. I bought one of these myself, but have yet to use it on my build. To me, it just seemed easier to me than setting up and using a dial indicator. The tool part number for my use is BBI-4.685, so make sure you get the correct one for your application. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp...n-bellhousing/
https://browellbellhousing.com/

[Skip Fix]

Cost on the tool?

[higgenslake]

Rocky's article from 2012 says $135 retail.

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Cost on the tool?

I got it a couple years ago, but I believe it was about $140 ish. Yep, a dial indicator and magnetic base will be cheaper, but I went with this as it seemed simpler and faster as a person who is not too confident using the dial indicator method, but understand and know how it is done.

This tool seemed to simplify the process and uses the feeler gauge method, and using the adjustable dowel pins with the slotted ends which can be turned to make your adjustments using a screw driver also seemed an easier adjustment process rather then keep taking dial indicated measurements. So for me, the price was worth the frustration I would have using a dial indicator.

Check out these RobbMc dowel pins: https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

Just another way of doing it.

[firechicken]

The article mentions $135.
I've done this many times with a dial indicator and isn't very difficult although this tool would probably assure accuracy and looks like a great idea if you don't already have a dial and magnetic base...

[428goat]

I also dialed my bellhousing in when I put a Tremec in my 67. Was not a big deal. Right and left were right on but up and down was off a bunch. Got the offset pins from silversport. The only other thing I needed was a shorter speedometer cable. Great guys to work with.

[killakev]

I received the offset dowels, Marked the high point on each side and installed them pointed towards 2'oclock were the bellhousing need to move. Installed bellhousing and checked run out with dial indicator. Bingo first shot well within spec - 0.00225.

Good with that, we went to install the clutch.....doesn't fit - pressure plate is too large! Compared it to the one we took out...yep too large. Called silversport and they are sending the correct size. I asked how was I sent the wrong size? They said it could be either of two sizes. I told them no one asked me what I had originally, not that I would have known off hand. My friend who is helping me said out of all the Pontiacs he has done they were all the same size.

What do you guys think of that?

So as I wait for two days to get the right size clutch, I pulled the seats out and pulled back the carpet to access the tunnel to get ready to cut. Silver Sport supplied a cut-out template. Cut out the template and placed it on the tunnel. I decide to call Silversport for some clarification on the template and boy I'm I glad I did that!!! The rep asks me which version install manual I had. Um the one you sent with the transmission? The manual does have pictures of laying out the template. As we continue to discuss, he recommends looking at another version install manual which shows an easier way to cut the tunnel for trans fitment. I agree completely but it requires a different style cut sheet metal (they supply this in the kit when you buy it). The manual they sent me was for GM A-body 64-72 but the one he refers me to is another manual titled GM A-body 68-72 Chevelle/Oldsmobile. The description for tunnel mods in this one made more sense and should save some time also. So they are sending me new sheet metal and template. I don't think I have to wait for the template though since it's straight forward so plan on cutting tomorrow!

[cdrookie]

10.5” and 11” are the two sizes. My 79 TA took a 10.5” and my buddies 66 GTO uses an 11”.

The Browell tool should be checked with an indicator after it’s bolted up. Which if you have an indicator you don’t really need the tool. It is a time saver though, especially when doing it yourself.

[gtospieg]

When I put a Legend 5 speed in my 67 I checked for parallel first and then concentricity. It was out both ways.

[killakev]

Cut the tunnel this eve. Clutch to arrive tomorrow. Tried to do a test fit but we struggled getting the tranny to line up humping it. Dropped the exhaust and cleared the crossmember to make room. Hey...tried

Borrowing a tranny jack to stop killing us tomorrow. Hopefully better luck. Would be nice if they sent an output yoke to turn the shaft while installing. Optimistic for sure what else can we hope for in these times....

[FrankieT/A]

When you finally get the bugs worked out you are going to love driving your car. It will definitely be one of the best upgrades you will ever do...

[ron cozzo]

To get the tranny to line up, two things helped me. 1). Put a little chamfer on the tip of the input shaft. Mine was square cut and there was no way it was going in the bearing without being perfectly aligned. 2) Make guide pins to put in the bell housings four bolt holes. Get 4 bolts long enough, cut the heads off, put a big chamfer on them, cut a slot in the end so you can take them out with a screwdriver.

[AG]

Good advice there.

[JC455]

What Ron said- I've been doing that since the early 90's- read about it in Car Craft...

[killakev]

We were able to get the tranny in. We had a 1/2" until it was flush with the bellhousing. What made the difference was to hook up the clutch linkage and pump the clutch pedal and slowly tighten the bolts to help guide it in the last 1/2". She moved in pretty easily doing that.

So one thing we notice is that the tailshaft of the tranny now looks slightly off to the driver's side. You can notice when installing the original crossmember - You can tell the crossmember is sitting deeper on the driver side frame than on the passenger side. Have no idea if the Muncie sat like that before taking it out. For ****'s and giggles I replaced the motor mount and will see if I can get any movement to the passenger side this evening with some forcefull help.

So the driveshaft is on halt since the company that makes them is in Michigan and the state has been shut down due to Corona Virus until April 13 as of now. Sucks.

So in the meantime try to center this thing a little more, check all my clearances in the tunnel. I figure I will be banging away at the tunnel to get some more room.