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#1
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Starter R&R on 1967 GTO with ram air headers
Can someone please tell me how to remove and reinstall the starter. The service manual describes it on the log manifold style, but with the headers and the harness running down the front and through the heat shield above the motor mount, I don't have enough harness slack to get the starter out. The harness is not factory and I think it's just too short. Can I get quick disconnects where I could cut both those heavy wires then just plug them back together or is that wire too heavy for that? Any help in this matter will be greatly appreciated.
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#2
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I´m using a threaded rod with washer and nut replacing the inner starter screw before lowering the starter. Makes it easier to remove the cables while it´s hanging a bit down on the rod.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Kenth For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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I've also removed the starter bolts, and laid the starter on something like a milk crate while I remove the wiring.
You can do the quick disconnect idea, however the battery cable will still not let the starter reach the ground. The exact reason I unhook everything while it's resting on something, of course reverse the procedure to install. This assumes your working on the floor, with a lift you'd have to improvise something similar. |
#4
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I’ve done it and it isn’t fun . I jacked my car and put it on ramps in the front and jack stands in the rear . Unplug the wire harness from the fuse block . Unplug from the oil sending unit and make sure the whole harness can come forward and not snag on anything, undo the positive cable from the battery also . Then I unbolt the starter while my friend is help feeding me the harness through the heat shield tube while I wrestle the starter out and down (major pain in the a$&!! Rest the starter on wood then unbolt the wires from the starter.
To put back in I connect the wires back up to the solenoid I think around a 11 clock postition towards the block then while I’m cussing shoving the starter back up in its final position my friend is pulling the harness and positive cable at the same time while push up . If your not using the heat shield tube it’s way easier ! |
#5
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Here’s a pic I found a while back that also helped me . What makes it hard with the heat shield is the thick wires have to bend pretty much straight down after they come out of the shield. Also have to be careful not to brake one of the ears off that connect to the motor mount . The after market shields are complete junk and also have a little bit smaller Inside diameter That make the wires tight inside.Way easier to do with the motor out !
Have fun ! |
#6
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That photo looks familar. Haha!
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#7
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#8
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Yes sir,
If my previous posts can help someone the that's great. That's what this forum is all about. |
The Following User Says Thank You to RedDirtRoad For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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Starters, they are a ........
I’ve owned three ‘67 HO cars over the years and did the R and R on all of them.
I’m still sore. The base engine starters are bad enough, but that HO, tough. First make plenty of slack up top with the wire harness and cable to help feed through the metal heat sleeve. Second person is a plus. I’ve done what Brad Yost said. Small crate or bucket just high enough to drop the starter down to disconnect the cable/wires. Wiggling this HEAVY unit down from the large exhaust manifold is tight but can be done. Have plenty of cold refreshments close by. Good luck. PS, make sure you have the small heat shield on the solenoid. CT.
__________________
1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. |
#10
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If you don't HAVE to have original, this would be a great time to install a mini starter. Much easier R&R. Sorry i don't have a better picture.
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"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
#11
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Tks for all the advice guys. I got it in and back on the road tonight. What a pain in the a#$. I finally cut the 2 wires up by the carburetor where the harness runs along the manifold, connected the wires, and still had to wrestle it in and tighten the wires once installed, then I used butt connectors to reconnect the wires. Everything from the top of the motor down to the starter is not factory, so I didn't feel bad cutting it and reconnecting them with butt connectors. Maybe a winter project to clean that up.
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#12
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Being an H.O., is your tube located on the left motor mount? If so, how close is it to touching the manifold?
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