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#1
01-27-2021, 05:36 PM
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ARP bolt
Since I have my Eheads off for a refresh, I would like to replace the forward most DS Ehead bolt with the OEM bolt that uses to attach the battery ground and sometimes the positive cable metal conduit to the starter. The problem I have discovered is the OEM bolt is 1/4" shorter than the ARP bolt, so less thread head to block engagement. Will this be of concern not to use the OEM bolt?
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#2
01-27-2021, 05:44 PM
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The rule of thumb Is that the head bolts need to stick out from the chamber side of the head with a gasket on it by 3/4” minimum.
I good place to land the battery ground cable is to one of the motor mount to block bolts, in fact depending on the year of your block you may have a unused motor bolt hole or two right there. I hope that while your getting the heads worked that they will get milled with a modern process to leave a near mirror finish on the deck because that’s the type of finish they need to have to not chew up the head gasket . It should not take more then a ,003” cut to get this and that amount will not even remove 1/2 of a CC.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! Last edited by steve25; 01-27-2021 at 06:07 PM. |
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#3
01-27-2021, 10:09 PM
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Are you sure you have the right edelbrock bolt? The upper row and the middle are the long ones, the end ports are shorter by a 1/4". We obviously know where the little ones go.
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" Is wearing a helmet illegal" Mike Kerr 1-29-09 |
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#4
01-28-2021, 10:07 AM
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You can buy the bolt your looking for from The Parts Place it’s about $9 dollars we did the same thing on a 68 r/a II car.
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#5
01-28-2021, 02:10 PM
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ARP bolts have a different metallurgy than OEM bolts, and different tensile strength. As such, the torque values are different. Mixing different head bolts is risky, IMHO, and a could lead to a blown head gasket. Why not just attach the cable directly to the head?
A 20 years ago, I had a guy who wanted to retain his heat shields, but also wanted E-heads. I carefully welded bolts (head to head) onto his ARP head bolts, so they had "studs" coming upward to attach the shields. I talked to him a few years ago, and they were still working fine.
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'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'. '67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust My webpage http://lnlpd.com/home |
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#6
01-28-2021, 02:48 PM
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Head bolt
Hadn't considered the difference in metallurgy. And definitely not worth the issue of a blown head gasket.
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#7
01-28-2021, 03:00 PM
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Don’t over think it it works but don’t us that short bolt in your picture get a new one.
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#8
01-28-2021, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Last edited by 68WarDog; 01-28-2021 at 06:05 PM. |
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#9
01-28-2021, 06:39 PM
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Good luck hope you find the bolts you need for it.
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