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#1
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69 T/A dash harness
Next on the list for project 69 T/A is the dash wiring harness. Not something I'm looking forward to, so I'm reaching out to the knowledgeable folks here to see if there's any helpful hints, tricks, or suggestions before I jump into this.
The interior is gutted, but the dash & steering column are still intact. (guessing these should be removed for easier access before proceeding) Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. JAB. |
#2
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Depends on how far your going on the rebuild. Make sure u tag EVERYTHING! Take a pic of every connection you can.
Once out, start by using plenty of contact cleaner and do not lose the labels during cleaning. |
#3
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I have a crib mattress in garage for just this occasion.
with the seats out this is so comfortable to work on the dash. You will thank me once youve tried this out. Agree you need column and IP out.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#4
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#5
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Thanks, I'll heed all advice. Not looking forward to removing dash asm, as the car has never been apart & is fairly original. But the re-wiring must be done, no question about it.
Cammer: I'm all over your suggestion. I have some real thick foam I cut to size to fit in the floorboards, doubled up in the rear foot area where it dips down, and covered the whole floor with a couple of moving blankets. I can climb all around in there & be very comfy. Thews: the car is pretty bare bones, only options are console & tinted windshield. Has original AM radio & dealer installed hood tach. I'm a big fan of the stacked gauges, but the car is 1 of the 20 built @ Van Nuys, 1 of the 14 or 15 3spd manuals, and the only 3spd manual built @ Van Nuys. It's #s matching, so originality is important. I'll certainly reach out to you if I change my mind. Thanks again for all replies. JAB |
#6
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Dash wiring update: dash is out , and yes, the biggest PITA was the headlight switch knob. Thanks to skinny arms I was able to reach in and hit the button to release the knob.
I replaced the taillight and intermediate harnesses, labeled the new dash harness against the original (AAW makes a fine repro, everything matches up perfectly). While everything's out, I ran the lines for aftermarket temp, oil pressure & voltage gauges. Another ball-breaker was replacing drivers side kick panel. Definitely easier with everything out, but still a chore. The e-brake pedal asm has to be removed to accomplish this. Next up is to clean/detail dash asm, wire it up and re-install. Now if this damn work thing doesn't get in the way.......... |
#7
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Interesting tidbit: An original headlight pull knob on a 69 Firebird looks exactly like the ones on GTO's, Bonnevilles etc but it is not the same. The firebird pull knob has a spring tension mechanism inside the knob itself which allows the knob to be pulled off (and later re installed) the rod so the dash bezel can be removed without trying to reach the button on the switch. All other 69 Pontiac pull knobs have the knob press fit onto the shaft and they can't be pulled apart and reused without glue assuming you can actually get the knob off in one piece.
No one repros the correct Firebird only pull knob.
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My Break Away Squad 1969 Fbird (Base, 350 & Sprint Cvt’s - 400HO & TA Hardtops) 1969 LeMans (2dr & 4dr Hardtop and a Cvt) 1969 LeMans Safari 2 seat Wagon 1969 GTO (2 Cvt, 2 Hardtops & Judge Hardtop) 1969 Catalina (3 Cvt’s & a 2dr hardtop) 1969 Ventura 2 Seat Wagon 1969 Executive 4dr Sedan 1969 Bonnie Cvt 1969 Bonnie 3 Seat Wagon (2 of them) 1969 Bonnie Brougham (4dr Hardtop & Cvt) 1969 Grand Prix SJ (2 of them) 1969 2+2 2dr Hardtop (Canadian model) |
The Following User Says Thank You to north For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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Yep, I heard it was a 1 year/1 model thing , so I was very cautious. The knob wasn't budging, and I didn't want to force & potentially break it (as I've been known to do). So I went the difficult route of locating the button & got 'er done. All good.
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#9
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