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  #21  
Old 07-28-2018, 06:03 AM
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Would be pretty cool to have an EFI system you could rob from a junk yard from some late model car.

  #22  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:00 PM
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So in my spare time I've been toying with building the cam sync. It's an old points distributor. I'm aiming for what Megasquirt calls 50/50 polling(maybe that's standard nomenclature, or particular to this ecu, I'm not sure). Supposedly it will sync faster. The washer simulates how the vertically mounted sensor will be reading a half moon shaped target (but larger diameter so the metal passes over the sensor). I still have to build the half moon piece, which may be challenging to try to build and maintain a balanced half moon "wheel". Just thought I'd post the little progress. And no matter what I do, this picture will not stay vertical, as it was taken... Sorry...
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:13 PM
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Don't stress to much about the balance. The distributor is only at half crank speed and you're only talking a couple of grams. I made my cam sync out of an old mallory small body distributor and an MSD magnetic pickup because I have a hatred for optical/hall pickups. I simply ground the shaft so one of the spring/weight pivot poles works as a flag poll to trigger the sensor, took it racing the other night, motor saw 6950rpm and no issues with the cam sync. I've also used an MSD pro-billet with 7 reluctor teeth cut off as a cam-sync before, works fine but I didn't like the larger distributor body.


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  #24  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:20 PM
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Thanks for the heads up Kris. I'm sure I won't get the balance perfect, hopefully it'll be close. If I were using a single tooth, I wouldn't worry about it all. But the O.D. of the wheel will be 3". Only on one side, though. I'll leave a reasonable amount on the non triggering side, and see how it does.

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  #25  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:39 PM
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You'll be fine. Another option is just to machine a washer that slips over the distributor shaft and use 3-4 tack welds to lock it down and grind it half moon like the attached image so there is an airgap directly above the sensor. You could test the sensor on the bench with a volt meter attached to the signal wire as it should switch 0-12V when the moon covers the sensor and the +ve/-ve wires are hooked up to a test rig battery - you could even use a 9V battery as those cherry sensors I think pull something like 50mA. If it switches voltage, you're good to go!
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  #26  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:48 PM
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Thanks for the testing method. That was my plan, but it's good to hear I'm on the right track from someone with experience!

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  #27  
Old 08-17-2018, 11:26 PM
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Default Injector dilemna

So... In an earlier post, I said I felt I had the injector situation under control. Well, even though FAST tells me they will send me the dead time/injector offset info, they haven't, and I'm not feeling any confidence that they will. The ecu has the capability of a test mode, but being inexperienced, I'm not super confident that I can really nail down the info I need that way. It's pretty important to have accurate injector info, especially for someone like me that's inexperienced at tuning. So, I'm thinking of buying a set of injectors that will come with the proper information. In particular, I'm considering the Holly 522-668, 66lb/hr, low impedence. A big part of the reason, is I've actually seen up close (in pics here in a post by blue66ss) that these fit properly with the Super Victor efi. Also, it's my understanding that low impedence can be easier to get to idle at shorter pulse widths. The flow rate is a little larger than I need, but not a bunch. My question, for those of you that have used this manifold with the edelbrock rail, is, is there a better choice? Also, what injectors physically fit in this combo. As I said, I'm inexperienced with this, so be specific. Brand, series (EV1, EV6, etc.) overall length. This is starting to all run together for me... Thanks for any help, and sorry for the length...

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  #28  
Old 08-18-2018, 04:39 AM
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Siemens Deka 60lb high imp tall injectors work great in a super victor manifold, that's what I run with edelbrock rails and they're quite affordable. They're a typical swap for the LS guys too. The rail kit for the s/victor comes with 2 different brackets to suit short or tall injectors. Also don't be too worried about high or low impedence unless you're running 120+lb/hr on a smaller engine. My Siemens 60's idle in my 400 just fine using sequential fuelling and I think I'm only at 60-65% duty cycle under full steam. Newer ecus have super fast transistors on the fuel outputs too so they can handle short pulses really well, same goes for the newer injectors, they have really fast solenoids.

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  #29  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:02 AM
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Kris, are they all the same? It seems I've seen different series Siemens. Do you have a part number?

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  #30  
Old 08-18-2018, 10:33 AM
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I'm running Siemens FI114961.

http://www.siemensdeka.com/product/6...fi114961-60mm/

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'71 Holden HQ Monaro - 3850lbs race weight, 400c/i - 11.4 @ 120
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  #31  
Old 08-18-2018, 10:37 AM
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Thanks Kris. Do you have the injector info for those? Dead time, voltage/offset table etc.? That's part of my struggle. I have a nice set of the short LS style injectors that fit with the short stands, but I can't get the info to be able to tune them properly....

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  #32  
Old 08-18-2018, 12:00 PM
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Another option is the Bosch injector from Injector Dynamics. I used them on my 461 EFI and am very happy with them. They flow calibrate the injectors (identically) in a set and give you all the actual injector data you need to populate the settings in your EFI software. The result is a high precision injector with a tight calibration and all the data to support.

You pay for all this- about 2X what an out of the box injector costs, but it is an option. I used the 1050x model on my Pontiac. Lots of info on their site:

http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1050x/

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  #33  
Old 08-18-2018, 12:10 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion, I am familiar with them, but they aren't in the budget at this time, unfortunately. Probably $500, tops. The Holleys were attractive due to the combination of being a known quantity, with injector info included, at a price point I can manage. The Siemens Deka can be had at a reasonable price, but the old "we have all the injector data" without including it in the item description makes me leary. I already have a set with no data.

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  #34  
Old 08-18-2018, 12:17 PM
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Kris, I went back and studied your link more closely. Gonna send you a PM.

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  #35  
Old 08-18-2018, 12:46 PM
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In the plus category for progress, I finally got the crank sensor bracket tacked together in a manner that's gonna work. Ended up with .035" clearance. I may drill the holes 1/64" over to have some adjustment. Needs to go towards radiator about that much to be perfectly centered. Used 1 1/4× 1 1/4×1/8 angle, should be plenty rigid when fully welded. I'll trim the excess that's not helping strength. Hopefully this completes the steps towards accurately sensing crank position. Now back to the cam position stuff....
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  #36  
Old 08-18-2018, 01:45 PM
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Default sequintial injection

I have had good luck with refurbished injectors form this guy.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/xtremekimch...1&_ipg=&_from=

  #37  
Old 08-18-2018, 01:58 PM
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Thanks for that, I'll check it out.

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  #38  
Old 08-23-2018, 12:52 AM
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One step closer. Received the injectors Kris recommended today. New, individually packaged, advertised to be within 2% flow. Seems like progress. Big thanks to Kris for the help with injector info. One downfall, I ended up with the wrong connectors, my own mistake. So, if any of you have a set of 8 minitimer connectors and wanna trade for a set of Uscar style brand new in the package, send me a PM.
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  #39  
Old 09-02-2018, 02:06 PM
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Cam sync is getting closer. Gonna try to get the top (smaller diameter part) of the points cam knurled so it's a close fit, and centers the plate well,before I weld it all together. Then I need a gear and shims. I made an attempt with the 5 holes to balance the wheel decently. I believe it's good enough. But I believe the hard part is done. To help myself believe this, I'm gonna consider building the cover a separate project... Baby steps.
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  #40  
Old 09-21-2018, 01:12 PM
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Cam sync is nearing completion. Need a .020-.025 shim to bring the sensor away from the wheel just a touch. I ended up with .018 endplay which I think will be OK as far as not binding. Also it'll make it easier to keep the clearance between the sensor and the wheel in tolerance no matter whether the shafts is in the up or down position. I do have some question over my bronze gear, and posted it as a separate topic, hopefully someone will help me put that issue to rest.
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