[Stripes]

Not sure I'm following you. The lifters were set initially to 1/4 turn of preload when the engine was assembled before any oil was pumped into them as they direct. They were soaked in oil prior to installation. Of course the engine was rotated by hand when the lifters were adjusted to ensure each was on the heel of the cam when set. Seems unlikely their installation method would damage them. The engine was then primed before it was started. They made the same racket then as they do now, hence the time I'm spending trying to figure out if this is normal or not. I went back and reset the preload to 1/2 in with no change in sound. I did (after the above) slowly adjust the lifters on one side to where they were just about to bottom out with a vacuum gauge. I could make the lifters very quiet this way. The plan was to try coming up a turn and seeing if this resulted in less noise. It did not result in less noise, and thus I went back and returned them to 1/2 turn preload as Butler suggested. The noise has remained constant except for the brief time I had them tight at idle. So, while I admit I have the capacity to screw them up, they started out this loud and after my multiple attempts to find a solution, nothing has made a difference.

[JSchmitz]

Mine were pretty noisy at 1/2 turn. Much quieter at 1 turn. They are still a little noisier than I would like. But this is my first hydraulic roller.

[Formulajones]

Depends on the stud used.

If converted to BBC studs the 7/16-20 stud will only provide .025" of preload at 1/2 turn. That's not a lot. Comp recommends .045" preload on both of their flat and roller hydraulic lifters.

[Formulajones]

One thing that hasn't been verified is whether you got the Morel or Shaver lifters from Comp. Tom mentioned it, and only one of them have the oil band in the correct location. The other set is too short and generally needs the lifter bore mod that Paul mentioned.
Seems Comp sends one or the other and you never know what you're going to get, depends on who is supplying that month I guess.

Here is a picture of the 2 sets from Comp side by side. I'd like to know which one you have before I'd go suggesting swapping parts and warranty claims. Knowing which lifter is in there will tell everyone right away what the problem is and narrow it down considerably.

[Stripes]

Valve top looks like this. That mark does not wipe off.

[David Jones]

My comp hyd rollers were too loud for my taste too.
I swapped to Crower hippo solid rollers a few years ago.
Quiet.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Stripes,

If your cam lobes have more lift than the lifter plungers have travel you can't help but bottom the plungers out while adjusting valves.

Comp directions states too much preload may damage the hydraulics of the lifter. That would be the return spring and check valve.

All hydraulic lifters leak down. Leak down rate varies by type and quality. They all leak down faster than you can adjust 16 valves.

Valve spring pressure multiplies by rocker ratio going back to the lifter. With plunger bottomed out, that's a lot of pressure on the return spring and check valve retainer.

If that is whats wrong, there's nothing you could have done to stop it.

Damaged (crushed) spring or bent check valve retainer would/could slow down or completely stop oil from refilling the bottom of the lifter where the hydraulic action is going on.

Several on here have posted about thin oil quietening down noisy lifters. Thin oil refills the bottom of the lifter easier when the check valve doesn't open like it should. Thick oil slows bleed down rate and slows refill. While thin oil speeds up refill but makes for faster bleed down.

With persistant clackers you can't win for losing. Just have to replace and cross your fingers.

The worst lifters out there would most likely be fine if they had some kind of stop under the plunger to prevent damaging the most critical parts.

Clay

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Depends on the stud used.

If converted to BBC studs the 7/16-20 stud will only provide .025" of preload at 1/2 turn. That's not a lot. Comp recommends .045" preload on both of their flat and roller hydraulic lifters.

the new comp lifters say to do 1/2 turn. the old ones said a full turn. so depending on the stud used, comp changed the preload spec for the old vs new.

Originally Posted by Stripes

Valve top looks like this. That mark does not wipe off.

that is definitely off center... being low i think it would indicate the push rods are too short but i could be wrong on what long/short does to the travel marks. again probably not related to the noise but it should be centered.

[Stripes]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

One thing that hasn't been verified is whether you got the Morel or Shaver lifters from Comp. Tom mentioned it, and only one of them have the oil band in the correct location. The other set is too short and generally needs the lifter bore mod that Paul mentioned.
Seems Comp sends one or the other and you never know what you're going to get, depends on who is supplying that month I guess.

Here is a picture of the 2 sets from Comp side by side. I'd like to know which one you have before I'd go suggesting swapping parts and warranty claims. Knowing which lifter is in there will tell everyone right away what the problem is and narrow it down considerably.

Mine are the taller lifter in the photo on the right. Which are "better"?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by 78w72

that is definitely off center... being low i think it would indicate the push rods are too short but i could be wrong on what long/short does to the travel marks. again probably not related to the noise but it should be centered.

Correct on too short moving the mark towards the intake. Too long moves it towards the exhaust.

Right length is narrowest sweep no matter where it hits. Narrowest sweep is the straightest push down.

Clay

[Stripes]

Ok, so what I think I'm learning is there still are noise issues with hyd roller lifters, and while annoying to to us, if the lifter is adjusted properly, it may still be loud but it likely isn't hurting anything in the valve train?

For what they cost, seems like they could be made as quiet as a regular hyd lifter....I take it solids sound like a sewing machine. So this is why folks are running solids on hyd roller cams. I got the message late...

[Stripes]

Regarding the valve top marks and pushrod length. I found the point where the intake valve was half way up, and the preload set at 1/2 turn in. I adjusted the adjustable pushrod until the top of the pushrod and the top of the valve were at 90 degrees. It looked like the below. Sent 2 photos to Butler. 8.80 and 8.90 were so close I couldn't decied what length to order. We split the difference and ordered 8.85. I was instructed the narrowest push on the stem was what was important, not the most centered mark. Check out the 2 photos and tell me which you think would be the best length pushrod to order? (can anyone tell I'm an auditor)

[Stripes]

So check out when I first tried the put the roller in the center of the valve tip idea. See the test mark on the 8.90 matches the wear mark in the valve. The pushrods need to be longer to center the mark. I hope I did it correctly.

[grivera]

My Comp (Shaver) are quiet so far but only about 1000 miles. Comp originally sent me Morels, identified by an M (857-16M). I sent them back without installing and received the Shavers.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Correct on too short moving the mark towards the intake. Too long moves it towards the exhaust.

Right length is narrowest sweep no matter where it hits. Narrowest sweep is the straightest push down.

Clay

thanks for confirming that. narrowest sweep is best but i thought it was supposed to be as centered as possible, not high or low?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

One thing that hasn't been verified is whether you got the Morel or Shaver lifters from Comp. Tom mentioned it, and only one of them have the oil band in the correct location. The other set is too short and generally needs the lifter bore mod that Paul mentioned.
Seems Comp sends one or the other and you never know what you're going to get, depends on who is supplying that month I guess.

Here is a picture of the 2 sets from Comp side by side. I'd like to know which one you have before I'd go suggesting swapping parts and warranty claims. Knowing which lifter is in there will tell everyone right away what the problem is and narrow it down considerably.

i thought the old ones were the long ones with the roller exposed, & the new "S" ones had the wheel less exposed? its been a few years since i swappped my originals for the new at that time S lifters so i forgot which was which & of course didnt take any pics. there was a noticeable difference in length & the roller exposure between the 2.

[ponjohn]

Can he fit lash caps to avoid buying new push rods?

[Lee]

Originally Posted by Stripes

So check out when I first tried the put the roller in the center of the valve tip idea. See the test mark on the 8.90 matches the wear mark in the valve. The pushrods need to be longer to center the mark. I hope I did it correctly.

Based on that picture, I'd get a set of 9.10" pushrods.

Look at the bottom of the rockers, and the sides of the current push rods, to make sure there are no witness marks for other contact.


(my wife is an auditor, too. DHS IG)

[tom s]

The Shavers are the taller ones,they look like a solid roller.Tom

[Will]

Originally Posted by Stripes

So check out when I first tried the put the roller in the center of the valve tip idea. See the test mark on the 8.90 matches the wear mark in the valve. The pushrods need to be longer to center the mark. I hope I did it correctly.

That second picture looks better to me. Narrower contact pattern AND more centered on the valve.