[68lemans462]

I currently am running some real stiff/high front springs which I installed years ago after dragging some new headers on the pavement. I also currently have a set of KYB gas shocks all the way around. In an effort to get the car to 60' better, I'm changing up the front springs and shocks. I dont really drive the car very much aside from to/from the dragstrip but I'm hoping not to lose much driveability with this change while realizing some improved short times.

Per advice I received here (mostly from Larry/formulajones) I have purchased a new set of custom $$prings from coil spring specialties. These springs are a -15% of stock. I also bought a set of Summit adjustable shocks (front and rear) in an effort to improve my 60' times/traction/etc at the dragstrip. I'll be installing these in coming weeks.

The front springs can be set to a 60/40, 80/20, or 90/10 ratio, while the rears can be set at a 50/50, 60/40, or 70/30 ratio. I'm wondering what the best ratio would be? I was thinking 90/10 for the front and 70/30 for the rear. I'm wondering how much these adjustments affect drive ability and/or short times. What have you guys set your adjustable springs to? Also, how crappy is this thing going to handle with this setup?

[Scott65]

You'll have to experiment. And you may want to run one setting at the track, then put it back on another for regular driving. I'd start at 80/20 in the front and 50/50 in the rear and have someone video so you can see what it's doing and make changes if needed. You'll probably be happier with the tightest setting in the front for street driving.

[mchell]

Generally, any suspension mods you setup for the Drag strip will make your car handle like dog doo....that said, you will get used to it rather quickly

What kinds of 60’s are you laying down now and where do you want to go?

Depending on your goal, you may want to attack from a different angle...tires, converter etc

[leeklm]

On my 73 I ran a 90/10 up front and just a regular 50/50 shock in the rear. That car was low to mid 11's and still rode well down the road. When tweaking the dual adjustable shocks on my 68 for the best 60ft times it rides terrible down the road!

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[Formulajones]

Making progress.

Both of our A-bodies, running those springs, I set the shocks up 90/10 on the front and found that setting them 50/50 rear has worked pretty well on both of them.

Of course you know we drive them everywhere in this configuration as they are street cars 90% of the time.

The trick to get them to drive nice is the front sway bar tricks I mentioned, also running a stock rear sway bar. With the front bar hooked up it really tames down those 90/10's to the point they are hardly noticeable during regular driving, and we live in the mountains with a lot of twisties. Matter of fact, I'd be willing to bet anyone that drove either of our cars on the street setup this way wouldn't even be able to tell the shock settings are the way they are if they didn't know before hand. They really do drive and behave pretty normal.
We've been street driving them this way for more than 20 years. Go to the track and either unhook the end links and go racing, or the modified frame bushings I sometimes do and leave the end links intact.

[68lemans462]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Making progress.

Both of our A-bodies, running those springs, I set the shocks up 90/10 on the front and found that setting them 50/50 rear has worked pretty well on both of them.

Of course you know we drive them everywhere in this configuration as they are street cars 90% of the time.

The trick to get them to drive nice is the front sway bar tricks I mentioned, also running a stock rear sway bar. With the front bar hooked up it really tames down those 90/10's to the point they are hardly noticeable during regular driving, and we live in the mountains with a lot of twisties. Matter of fact, I'd be willing to bet anyone that drove either of our cars on the street setup this way wouldn't even be able to tell the shock settings are the way they are if they didn't know before hand. They really do drive and behave pretty normal.
We've been street driving them this way for more than 20 years. Go to the track and either unhook the end links and go racing, or the modified frame bushings I sometimes do and leave the end links intact.

Good to know! I'm running a 1.25" front bar and I have shimmed the mounting brackets so it can "move" and the rubber grommets dont grab the bar.. Also just installed a factory rear sway bar and boxed arms. I hope I'm unable to tell I've done these mods. Fingers crossed and thanks for ideas on the shock settings.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 68lemans462

Good to know! I'm running a 1.25" front bar and I have shimmed the mounting brackets so it can "move".. Also just installed a factory rear sway bar and boxed arms. I hope I'm unable to tell I've done these mods. Fingers crossed and thanks for ideas on the shock settings.

If you shimmed the mounting brackets, the nice thing about that is you can try it both ways. If you find it not quite to your liking, take the shims out and try it. Tightening up the bar a pinch will help.

I was shimming mine years ago but to be a little more stealthy I started honing poly bushings so they didn't clamp the bar so tight. Problem with that is that it's permanent so to make a change requires another set.

[Formulajones]

Wanted to ask, did Coil Spring Specialties nail the ride height you wanted?

[68lemans462]

I haven't put them in yet... I'll know shortly.

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[mchell]

I have played around with my front sway bar over the years..... removing and loosening end links, using poly and rubber mounts etc etc....

I also notice a large difference in driving experience with the bar attached BUT, on my setup , I always 60 ft better with the front sway bar removed by a substantial margin.

After I drive without it for a bit I don’t care and leave it off for the most part as I tire of playing with it if I go to the track.

As usual, you will have to try for yourself as your mileage may vary.

I really want to try the HR parts n stuff rear bar as it seems you may not miss the front bar when running this style of rear anti roll bar

[68lemans462]

Originally Posted by mchell

I have played around with my front sway bar over the years..... removing and loosening end links, using poly and rubber mounts etc etc....

I also notice a large difference in driving experience with the bar attached BUT, on my setup , I always 60 ft better with the front sway bar removed by a substantial margin.

After I drive without it for a bit I don’t care and leave it off for the most part as I tire of playing with it if I go to the track.

As usual, you will have to try for yourself as your mileage may vary.

I really want to try the HR parts n stuff rear bar as it seems you may not miss the front bar when running this style of rear anti roll bar

I removed the bar last year and the 60' improved noticeably as well. Driving without it out there on the roads can be pretty sketchy. Car drives about 10x better with the bar. I have also looked into those rear bars... They look very interesting

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[Formulajones]

Interesting they show that bar and they are still using a right rear air bag. That bar just looks like a giant version of a stocker.

I use a right rear air bag in our stuff with the stock rear bar and it works surprisingly well. None of that excessive twisting and looks stock. I've actually found the most success and improvement in 60 foot times with changing the instant center. The stock sway bar and right rear bag is just there to help keep the right rear tire planted a little better.

Being tired of playing with the front bar is another reason why I modified the front bar mounts I mentioned, so I don't have to fool with it anymore. Yet it's there on the street to help minimize excessive roll with the 90/10's up front. Kind of the best of both. But I never had to remove the bar entirely anyway, just a nut to unhook the links and let the bar sit there along for the ride.

[mchell]

Those anti roll bars are nothing like a stock sway bar ......thing I like is they don’t tie the rear control arms together at all, allowing full movement . I would think they would be a win win. Couple guys here run that style and have very good results.

Interesting test results he has on his site. One statement he makes is the car “handles like it’s on rails” after putting the bar on...with no front bar

One of these days...

https://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by mchell

Those anti roll bars are nothing like a stock sway bar ......thing I like is they don’t tie the rear control arms together at all, allowing full movement . I would think they would be a win win. Couple guys here run that style and have very good results.

Interesting test results he has on his site. One statement he makes is the car “handles like it’s on rails” after putting the bar on...with no front bar

One of these days...

https://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

I actually meant that it appears to function much like a stock bar, unlike some of the others on the market that run up through the trunk floor with an elaborate bar and mounting system .

[Scott65]

The HR bar is a very good piece. And it does help negate the effect of the front bar being off.

[AG]

Originally Posted by mchell

Those anti roll bars are nothing like a stock sway bar ......thing I like is they don’t tie the rear control arms together at all, allowing full movement . I would think they would be a win win. Couple guys here run that style and have very good results.

Interesting test results he has on his site. One statement he makes is the car “handles like it’s on rails” after putting the bar on...with no front bar

One of these days...

https://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/

We put one in my brother's 1970 A body and the car handles like it is on rails, nothing like a stock one. I think it's a great investment and I will be putting one on my 1972.

[TCSGTO]

Originally Posted by AG

We put one in my brother's 1970 A body and the car handles like it is on rails, nothing like a stock one. I think it's a great investment and I will be putting one on my 1972.

I have the Spohn version of the drag ARB and agree with this. It corners flatter than when it had a1.25” front and stock rear sway bar and this is with 90/10’s and 6 cylinder springs up front. Since it really stiffens the rear suspension I wonder if it could cause some violent oversteer in an emergency situation? Id like to try an autocross to see what would happen at the limit.
On the dragstrip it takes a lot of the drama out of the launch. Hit the gas, it goes straight even if it spins.

[steve25]

First off how does the car sit front to rear?
If the nose of the car sits lower then the rear then weight transfer to aid in planting the rear tires can not even begin until the car has leveled off.

[Tim Corcoran]

I have the HR Parts and stuff anti roll bar on my 65 LeMans and it really is a great product. My car was twisting like a pretzel on launch before I installed it and it really straightened out the launch and improved my 60'. I also have adjustable upper control arms so I can set my pinon angle and have the frame stiffeners that connect the upper shock mount to the frame. I also have the no hp bars to change my IC point. The car runs low 10's and 60' between 1.41 and 1.47 depending on track conditions I have ran a 1.39 but that was the best ever. I run a 28X10.5 tire which is the biggest tire I can fit without tubbing the car and the car race weight is 3550. I'm not saying my setup is ideal but for a budget bracket car it seems to work well for me. I suppose if I was to add much more power to the engine I may need to somehow put a bigger tire back there. I can say as was mentioned having the front end slightly higher than the rear really helps with weight transfer and improved the 60's. I am sure this will have some effect on et and mph because have the front end in the air going down the track on a car that already has a lot of wind resistance but it is a trade off and I believe it does get you to the other end faster even though your pushing a lot of mass against the wind at 130 MPH.

[68lemans462]

Well I installed the new springs from Coil spring specialties as well as the summit 90/10 drag shocks. These items replaced a set of JC Whitney "high lift" springs that I cut a coil off of and a set of standard KYB gas shocks.

I'm pleased to report that the car actually drives alot better than it did before. It's smoother and has a way better feel. It corners well and no problem with any bumps. The front sits about 1" lower than before which is just about right. It was honestly too high before.

As soon as the dragstrip thaws out I'll get to see if this improves my 60'.. So far so good!