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Old 04-01-2016, 06:21 PM
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64Leconvert 64Leconvert is offline
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Default Rear end removal

Removing the rear end out of my 64. Doesn't look to difficult but there is always a easy way and a hard way. Looking for some easy way advice. Uppers first lowers first that kind of thing. Thanks.

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Old 04-01-2016, 06:37 PM
John62 John62 is offline
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No real tricks. Just be safe. Good jack stands on the rear of the frame. First driveshaft. Then the brake line at the rearend housing. Then with a good floor jack, jack it up a little till the bottom of the shocks slide off the post then remove shock unless you a reusing them let them hang. Now the rear will low farther, enough to get the springs out. Then jack up a little and you now have room to get at both sides of the bolts/nuts. Remove all the nuts leaving the bolts to sturdy things till you can get the nuts off. Then jack it up about mid way and start from there. When a bolts is loose pull it out, no real order just move the rearend up or down till the bolts come out easy. Make sure the jack is centered under the rear properly so it don't tip removing bolts or lowering. Once the bolts are all out you can lower the rear.

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Old 04-01-2016, 07:36 PM
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Tom Vaught Tom Vaught is offline
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I have swapped out the 4.33 Rear axle in my 64 GTO with a 2.56 axle at least 6 times with nothing but a good floor jack, good jack stands, good wheel chocks, and basic hand tools. I put a rear tire and a spare rim under the frame (as a second safety device) on each frame side.

I would use a coat hanger on each side to hold up the rear brake plates (and shoes) without breaking the brake lines open. My brake lines were retained to the rear axle housing with some special clamps I made up (Big end of clamp over housing and another retainer held the brake line. I would stick the axle shafts right back into the housing on each side after removing the brake backing plates.

No more than a 3 hour swap job by myself with a couple of breaks rolled into the timing.

Tom V

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Old 04-01-2016, 07:53 PM
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Tom's remarks reminded me you need to take the brakes apart to disconnect the Emergency brake cable, or as Tom has said let those parts hang. We don't know if your changing the rear or just painting it and reinstalling it or whatever.

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Old 04-01-2016, 08:36 PM
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64Leconvert 64Leconvert is offline
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Thanks for advice guys. Dropped it out with no problem. Maybe going back in might be alittle more time consuming.

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Old 04-02-2016, 08:24 AM
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Good time to take the axles to a shop and have the axle seals/bearings changed if the rear has a lot of time on it.

Once I had new GM parts installed I just moved the axle shafts between the two rear housings and put plugs in the one not being used.

Tom V.

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Old 04-03-2016, 08:49 AM
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64Leconvert 64Leconvert is offline
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Removed it because it looks like the pinion bearing let go and rest is history. While its out I'm going to do some detailing,bushing replacement and decide if I'm going to rebuild stock or go with aftermarket. It's a sunny day driver that will see zero track time. Maybe leaning towards rebuilding stock with some upgrades.

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Old 04-03-2016, 10:13 AM
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If you did not kill the rare (today) 8.2" "posi" unit and you can find the other parts then having the original date coded rear under the car makes the GTO more valuable at the end of the day.

Tom V.

My fiirst rear axle lasted only a couple of years.

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Old 07-03-2016, 04:27 PM
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It's time to install the rear end back in. Going through the hardware there are 6 4 inch bolts and 2 3 3/4 bolts. Not sure where the 3 3/4 bolts came out of. Some point me in right direction. Thanks.

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Old 07-04-2016, 09:36 AM
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Been searching around and the replacement bolts I see in catologs are all the same size. Also was going to get new nuts. All the replacement nuts I see look like a crown lock nut. The nuts I removed look more like a standard nut with the locking indents on the middle of the nut. Just curious. Vendors say nos part but they don't match the ones I removed which are the ones the car was built with.

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