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#1
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So what is a normal amount of oil per run in a vacuum pump system? New to using one.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#2
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Just about nothing is normal for me. I can go 3-4 weekends before i get a thimble full. The better the engine/rings are sealed the better
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#3
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I've asked the same question, a lot has to do with the placement of your fitting. First I had it on the passenger side front top surface of the valve cover without a baffle and with a baffle it sucked a lot of oil, I could not drive 100 miles without it blowing oil out the top of the catch can all over the engine area and down the side of the car all the way back to the bumper. We drove down to Phoenix cruze-in and a guy walked up to me said he liked the car except the block (MR1), can't think of his name but he dose the IA blocks, so he said the best place to place the fitting was the vary top center of the valve cover. I did it with no baffle and drove 100 miles and I drained only 3 oz. of oil out of the catch can which is plenty to keep the pump lubed so I'm happy with that. I can't get the pic to copy here.
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#4
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The answer is zero. If you properly baffle the suction point, have adequate drain backs, there is no leaks sucking air into the motor, don’t have excessive blow-by on your rings, you will have zero oil in the overflow. If you do, look at the above for the problem
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The Following User Says Thank You to John Langer For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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I can drive 200 miles roundtrip to the dragstrip and barely see any in mine. With mine anything that does show up is from initial startup if the car has been sitting for a while and that is more condensation carrying fine oil mist.
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
#6
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K keithseymore454@gmail.com
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
#7
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The answer really shouldn't be zero oil unless you prefer to add your own oil to the pump or you don't mind running the pump dry and chance shortening the life span. These vacuum pumps do rely/need a little bit of lubrication to keep them working properly and live a long happy life. How much has always been the question.
I personally prefer to have it pulling a pinch of oil, because frankly I don't want the added worry and maintenance of adding oil in the top of the pump every time the car is driven. Especially in a street driven application such as dad's car. We experimented with dad's car for quite a while, moving the location of the suction line in different places, baffles, no baffles, pulley ratios, adjusting the pump vacuum up and down. He couldn't even drive the car from the house to Phoenix before the catch tank would overflow and spew oil all over the car. It wasn't until we ran into Frank at the local cruise and he mentioned moving the suction line to the middle half of the valve cover and at the very top. I didn't even think of that spot. Once that was done, we found it didn't even need a baffle. He actually drove round trip a little over 200 miles to Goodguys and back and pulled about 3-4 ounces out of it. That's with the pump pulling about 6-8 inches at cruise rpms and about 10-12 inches at peak rpm. Hell we could race it all day at the track and not even worry about it. I'm comfortable with that, thinking it should be enough to keep the pump lubed. If we decide to reduce the amount I'm sure adding a baffle would slow it down more, but I'm not the least bit interested in cutting it off from oil completely. |
#8
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Mine is at the back of the passenger side and there was minimal baffle in the fitting originally I added a some extra in there but I think it could be improved in there . Getting 5-20 ml per run. Last run sprayed oil all over engine but puke can still should take way more than that .
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#9
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I thought the back would be good too but a lot of oil sloshes back there on take off, drag strip runs, even street driving.
Tried the front of the valve cover and it wasn't much better. Street driving just didn't work, and I assume slowing down, braking, sharp left hand turns etc.. pushing oil to the front of the valve cover. Had baffles in those locations too. Went to the middle and the very top of the cover and the difference was night and day, and no baffle at all. Luckily these aftermarket valve covers have a flat area along the top edge of the cover allowing us to put the fitting further away from the center of the cover where there is more splash oil, and allowed the suction fitting to face straight up. Seemed to be the cure for his car anyway. |
#10
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Check post 27, this is what worked for me for many years.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=762988&page=2
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Dave Polichena |
#11
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Dave I remember that one. Looks like first step try more baffling. Might need a filter on top the puke can that has a sheila on one side too. Pump pulls 6-8 at idle 10 at 3-4000 on the live display on my logger when I rev it but on a run shows 0 the whole time.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#12
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Photo from GTO Jones:
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Seymore For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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I could drive mine for a couple weeks and there was never more than a cap full of oil in the tank.
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#14
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Get a drop after each pass. So, next to nothing
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1964 GTO 501, Edelbrock Heads NA, 3460 lbs. 9.76 @ 137mph 1971 Trans Am Lucy Blue, 11.56 @ 115 1966 LeMans. 462, SD prepped Kaufman D ports. 11.90 @ 112 1976 Trans Am twin turbo 462, SD Edelbrock heads 8.50@159 2009 G8 GT |
#15
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If you don't mind my asking, who makes those valve covers? Love 'em!
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#16
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DCI Motorsports, cast alum and I powder coat chrome them. Great item.
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#17
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They look taller than the common aftermarket aluminum valve covers which retain the classic 65-79 valve cover shape. Is that an illusion, or are they tall enough to clear roller rockers, stud girdles, etc. without spacers or extra thick gaskets?
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#18
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Yes they are taller, I forget the dim. but at the time I think he made a couple of different heights. Ciear roller rockers no problem.
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The Following User Says Thank You to GTO JONES For This Useful Post: | ||
#19
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Look at post 10 and you’ll see what I did as well. Works really well
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1965 TriPower GTO, 1967 GTO, 1969 GTO, 1969 Judge, 1972 GTO, 1977 Smokey and the Bandit, 1989 TA ProStreet, 1968 Firebird NHRA 10.90 racecar, 1963 Tempest S/Gas |
#20
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The back of the valve cover is a real bad spot. That's where the oil all goes on a pass, straight to the back. When on the brakes it all goes to the front so that is bad also. I have mine in the side of the valve cover on the intake side between the 2 and 4 cylinder rockers. I get a little bit each pass but normally empty it at the end of the day after 8 or 9 passes. I know the engine is hurt when it starts pulling a lot of oil into the puke tank.
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Come take a ride http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7Y8Awfk2I0 2008, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2019 Central Il Dragway Mod track champion and 2015 IHRA Div 5 Mod champion |
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