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Old 04-23-2011, 09:46 AM
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DanC DanC is offline
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Arrow Q-Jet parts needed.....

I have a 7040262 carb body and I need a float, pin, and plastic baffle for it. Attached is a pic of the bowl area.

Also I need a throttle bracket that attaches with two bolts to the base plate throttle arm with a pin for the T-cable hookup.

DanC
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Last edited by DanC; 04-23-2011 at 09:53 AM. Reason: added needs!
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:31 PM
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Half-Inch Stud Half-Inch Stud is offline
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...I have the float items. PM me for figuring what transaction makes sense.

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Old 04-23-2011, 05:44 PM
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Arrow This just ain't right.........

(see image below)...which is why I need the other style bracket. But this is all I have to work with right now!

HIS, I pm'd ya about the float items.

DanC
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:54 PM
67cruiser 67cruiser is offline
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I have both ones but the pins are in the exact same place?? Only differance one has the flat stop for the fast idle seleniod like you have pictured and one does not.Also the area for the spring attachmant is further bent back. I have the plastic float retainers also and hinge pins if needed. Do you have the correct throttle backet for that yur.???


Last edited by 67cruiser; 04-23-2011 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:33 PM
Stuckinda60s Stuckinda60s is offline
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I had a similar situation on a carb at one time. The solution was to remove the linkage ball from the bellcrank and fashion a pin using a brass screw which fit through the hole with about 1/2" after you fasten it with a nut. Then file the screw to where the linkage will fit over it. Once it's fitted, drill the screw for a cotter pin while leaving enough clearance to fit a washer between the linkage and pin. It's not a bad idea to put a washer between the linkage and the retaining nut, as well.

If this isn't clear, feel free to ask questions.

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Old 04-24-2011, 08:07 AM
Cammer-6 Cammer-6 is offline
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Dan was going to suggest the same thing as above but it got posted first.
Or you could just drill a hole and use a small machine screw and nuts to secure.
I wouldnt use a brass screw,too soft,use a case hardened one and double nut
with loctite instead of drilling and pinning.

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Old 04-24-2011, 12:49 PM
Stuckinda60s Stuckinda60s is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammer-6 View Post
Dan was going to suggest the same thing as above but it got posted first.
Or you could just drill a hole and use a small machine screw and nuts to secure.
I wouldnt use a brass screw,too soft,use a case hardened one and double nut
with loctite instead of drilling and pinning.
I used brass because it's somewhat self lubricating, less apt to bind and, if it does wear, protects the linkage. It held up pretty well. The hole in the bellcrank is bigger than the hole in the linkage, at least that's the way mine was. That's why I used a pin. I had a snug fit in the bellcrank and then there were no threads on the pin portion.

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The real democratic American idea is, not that every man shall be on a level with every other man, but that every man shall have liberty to be what God made him, without hindrance.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:59 PM
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DanC DanC is offline
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Thumbs up

This is a belated post, but none the less to say I'm all set now on this carb.

HIS supplied the needed float bowl items.

And I removed the ball stud and drilled a new located hole and installed a double nutted #10 screw for the T-cable.

Thank you all for the parts and tips!

DanC

__________________
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1968 Firebird Convertable - my original HS car!
1978 Firebird Esprit "survior"
1930 Ford Model A Coupe .. (original)
1994 Buick .."TowMaster" ...woody wagon
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