[WARPed]

In my case there will be a mid plate and will use standard grade 8 bolts for the front plate. There will not be a trans mount bolted in place with the use of the mid plate but rather just resting on the cross member.

[BVR421]

Originally Posted by WARPed

In my case there will be a mid plate and will use standard grade 8 bolts for the front plate. There will not be a trans mount bolted in place with the use of the mid plate but rather just resting on the cross member.

I have little experience with this deal but won't it be necessary to have trans bolted to crossmenber to control fore-aft movement? The front and mid plates alone should not be sufficent to hold position. I would feel better If not the trans mount, at least use limiter rods from engine or plate parallel to the frame. Thats close to a 1000lbs that needs to be held in place.

[FBNRacing]

We sandwiched behind the cover and bolted into the heads.
Rex

[WARPed]

After a lengthy conversation with my chassis builder the trans mount (polly) will be bolted into place. The limiters will not work when a stock PG case is used (what I have) they are just too weak for such a strain.

Originally Posted by BVR421

I have little experience with this deal but won't it be necessary to have trans bolted to crossmenber to control fore-aft movement? The front and mid plates alone should not be sufficent to hold position. I would feel better If not the trans mount, at least use limiter rods from engine or plate parallel to the frame. Thats close to a 1000lbs that needs to be held in place.

[taff2]

I made these out of the leftovers from the mid plate I'm using,1/4" T6 ali.

[BVR421]

Taff that looks like a very effective use of "scrap" LOL no such thing as "scrap metal" right?

looks like FBN is a little further along in construction and looking great!

[FBNRacing]

Thanks BVR we finished it About a year ago. It was completly built in our own shop with the exception of the paint work. We even did the vinyl on it. It still is heavy as we kept the stock doors with crank up glass, and some other things that can be changed. It weighs in at 2700 and with out alot of motor it ran 9.97 at attco. With the new motor we hope to hit a low 9. Im pretty proud of this car

Rex

[Jack Gifford]

FBN- Nice work! Where do you run it?

[FBNRacing]

Thanks Jack,
We race locally at lancaster dragway in buffalo NY and new york international near rochester ny. We try to hit two big money bracket races a month during the season.
Rex

[BVR421]

Originally Posted by FBNRacing

Im pretty proud of this car

Rightfully so! I love the factory mirror on the door. The bracket racers friend!

[BVR421]

One more thing on front motor plates, TwoOldGoats ordered the complete BOP package and I looked it over in his shop last night. That is a thing of beauty, front plate with belt cam drive. The price of the package always seemed high to me but after seeing the real parts spread out on the bench, I can see the value!

[taff2]

BVR, yeah I like to make use of what's hanging around my workshop, the ladder bars on my last car were made from the legs of a bar room table (1" box section steel) ! Didn't seem to hurt the car it ran consistent 10.50s!
The new tube car is all homebuilt and is a rolling chassis now,just the bodywork to sort out in time for the new season in March.

[D. Miles]

S&W Race Cars has one that mounts between the water pump and timing cover for $99.00. I am using one on my 65 LeMans tube car, all you have to do is remember to space those 2 little sleeves that the separator plate presses against out 1/4" also. I bought this one just before B.O.P. came out with theirs that is pictured in a previous post that uses the 4 lower bolts, that one seems more conveniant as it is lower (out of the way) and does not require spacing or machining timing covers and other components... D. Miles

[GTO]

Mine is mounted between the block and timing cover. I need this setup as my cranktrigger and pump won't let me use another style. Everything seems to mount OK and nothing rubs. Do I have to machine the cover? The only problem I see is the gasket for the oil pan as my waterpump is run without the regular plates and sleeves. Is there something I'm not seeing? The picture is just the initial mockup.

[FBNRacing]

Thats how ours is also. We machined a little over 1/8 off the cover then made our own front gasket out of a thicker cork material. The one problem is that by moving the cover out a whole 1/4, it messes up the location of your front pan bolts pretty bad. Also you will need a spacer for the vent port on the water pump to intake manifold. I would machine the cover.
Rex

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by GTO

... Is there something I'm not seeing? ...

I'm surprised that the cover and front main seal can move a full 1/4" ahead on the balancer hub without a problem. Or did you put a spacer between the timing gear and the balancer?
Edit: I see you didn't say that your plate is 1/4" thick- I was just thinking it was, from the photo.

[GTO]

My plate is 3/16 and the seal looks alright on the ATI balancer and no spacer was used. I think you're right I'm going to machine the cover about .150". Never thought about the bolt holes! Sometimes it's good to ask a stupid question. LOL. ... Thanks, Eric.

[Tom Vaught]

I have used a plate between the timing cover and the block for a boosted application. To make the balancer match correctly I took an old timing gear and had the teeth machined off and the gear sliced into 1/4" thick pieces with a wire edm. Now I had enough parts to do about 4 front plate set-ups.

The other alternative was to have 1/4" thick hardened rings made with the keyway broached into the spacers. I would have the oieces rockwell C hardened to the same spec as a lower timing gear.

For many the Plate between the waterpump or the lower 4 bolt deal seems easier.

Tom V.

[CPL.BEYDLER]

how about this, i've seen BOP with the belt drive set up and thought... instead of spending $900 which is fine if you want to do that, giving you an outstanding piece also a stout motor plate, I used a 1/4" plate to mount up against the already machined surface ( yes it covers the engine code ) using 6 grade 8 studs running through a fabricated timming chain cover. ( i'm running a gear drive and had to machine back on the idler gear shafts to 1.44'' to fit) and now you are all thinking what about the oil pan? well I just cut that 45 degere front off flush and made my own flange with 9, 1/4" bolts. what about a water pump? well just use a small block chevy, no it wont bolt on but the water holes line up, just install offset studs and call it a day. a front seal has a separate plate which can be adjusted to ensure proper sealing. total hours on this was about 15-18 hours and being hand fabricated it does not look like a hand job. total cost was about 180 bucks and i'll really fake people when they think its a small block, which they already do (when they see the valve covers) i dont plan on selling one or making an other i'll try to get pictures on here or you can just e mail me. I needed a motor plate and so i made one :@

[BVR421]

Originally Posted by CPL.BEYDLER

i'll try to get pictures on here or you can just e mail me. I needed a motor plate and so i made one :@

that sounds like clever fabrication! Please post some pics!