[fyrffytr1]

I bought a fire damaged 2001 S-10 for the frame and drivetrain. I am going to put my 39 Pontiac body on it after a few modifications.
The cab was the only thing that burned and it burned from the dash up. The fuel pump and gas tank are bad so I installed a universal electric fuel pump hooked to a five gallon gas can to try to get the motor running. It will run briefly on starter fluid. I am getting fresh gas up to the pressure fitting on the line about six inched behind the throttle body but I don't get any into the throttle body. The fuel line goes into a fitting on the intake manifold and then come back out and goes to the throttle body. Is that a solenoid valve or something?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by fyrffytr1

I bought a fire damaged 2001 S-10 for the frame and drivetrain. I am going to put my 39 Pontiac body on it after a few modifications.
The cab was the only thing that burned and it burned from the dash up. The fuel pump and gas tank are bad so I installed a universal electric fuel pump hooked to a five gallon gas can to try to get the motor running. It will run briefly on starter fluid. I am getting fresh gas up to the pressure fitting on the line about six inched behind the throttle body but I don't get any into the throttle body. The fuel line goes into a fitting on the intake manifold and then come back out and goes to the throttle body. Is that a solenoid valve or something?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

That system requires 61 PSI to run, provided by a high pressure fuel pump inside of the tank. Without that style of pump the fuel pressure regulator won't let fuel into the injection system.

I assume you're just using a regular pulse pump that is used to supply a carbureted system that would make roughly 7 PSI, falls way short of your needs for fuel injection. FYI you need high pressure hose to connect the fuel system, regular fuel line isn't sufficient to contain the high pressure.

This is a video that explains your system, and basically how it functions:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGdO...channel=Nicoya

You're going to need the ECM, and wiring harness from the truck to make the system work, and tell the injectors when to work. This isn't much like an old car that you can bypass systems to get it to run, the whole system has to be wired in to get the engine to run.

Hope this helps...

[fyrffytr1]

Thanks for the info. I am running a low pressure fuel pump. I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace the gas tank and fuel pump. Maybe I can fix the leak in the tank and just replace the pump.

[fyrffytr1]

I installed a new tank, pump and filter and the darn thing still won't crank. Do I need to bleed the air out of the fuel lines or something?

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by fyrffytr1

I installed a new tank, pump and filter and the darn thing still won't crank. Do I need to bleed the air out of the fuel lines or something?

No, if you run out of gas in your FI car, there is no need to bleed anything, after refueling, they start right up. You're going to have to go back to basics, and check for fuel, air, and ignition. You're missing one of these items.

If any of the wiring harness got burned you might be looking at an open circuit. If any of the wiring went to ground or, full 12 volts the ECM could have easily been damaged.

One other thing is terminology "won't crank" actually means the starter is inoperative, it doesn't mean the starter works, and the engine won't start, and run. You need to clarify which symptom you're encountering.

[fyrffytr1]

Thanks for the help. The motor will start and run very briefly on starter fluid but it will not stay running.

[Sirrotica]

I'm gonna assume the injectors are not getting a signal to send fuel then, because it will run on starting fluid. Lots of possibilities especially with a fire vehicle. Wiring in a fire vehicle can be compromised in any part of the system, as can the ECM.

If water was used to extinguish the fire it compounds the possibilities a lot more, The reason any flood vehicles get totaled when water reaches the wiring, or ECM. Water raises all kinds of problems, now as well as later on.

I'm assuming the diagnostic plug under the dash is still usable, I'd start with pulling the trouble codes, and go from there.

[fyrffytr1]

None of the wiring behind the dash appears to have been damaged. I pulled the ECM out and didn't see any corrosion in it. Is there a way to test the ECM out of the vehicle? Also, in order to pull the codes I would have to load the truck on my trailer and haul it to the parts place so I could get them read.

[PontiacJim1959]

Is it a V6? If so, junk all the electronics. Get an HEI distributor and use a carb adapter to mount a good 'ole 2 Bbl Rochester carb.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by fyrffytr1

None of the wiring behind the dash appears to have been damaged. I pulled the ECM out and didn't see any corrosion in it. Is there a way to test the ECM out of the vehicle? Also, in order to pull the codes I would have to load the truck on my trailer and haul it to the parts place so I could get them read.

OK, dumb me pulled the body control module from under the dash. The Engine control module is under the hood!! I will pull it the next dry day we get here.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by PontiacJim1959

Is it a V6? If so, junk all the electronics. Get an HEI distributor and use a carb adapter to mount a good 'ole 2 Bbl Rochester carb.

Thanks for the reply. I just want to see if this motor is any good before I do a lot to it. But that sounds like a good idea.

[fyrffytr1]

I found this while I was taking the ECM out. It looks like the green and orange wires have been swapped. The damage to the wire loom beside it is superficial, the wires inside are still insulated.