[Dick Boneske]

Sorry, I put the wrong exhaust picture on the previous post. That's my wife's '64. Here's the Pypes system on my current restoration. I'm really happy with how close to the body I could get the mufflers and X pipe--it's actually higher than my wife's non-x pipe setup.

[ron cozzo]

I've done two Pypes systems, both without an X on 67's. In both cases I had to angle the mufflers to get the tails and headpipes happy with each other. I'm thinking adding the X, while a little more work, actually makes it easier since you have more play for the location of the headpipes. It looks like you clamped the splitter at the existing tail pipe clamp location, without using the splitter bracket. Am I seeing that correct? It looks like your position is pretty close to stock from the side view. I'm very interested in how this worked out for you as I haven't pulled the trigger for the exhaust on my project yet. I'm currently thinking Pypes or Inline. Still on the fence about splitters or no splitters also.

[Dick Boneske]

I used the '64/'65 splitter hangers. I had to use '72 splitters because of the 2 1/2" diameter pipes. Everything is Pypes. The cost for their stainless steel system, including stainless steel splitters, was lower than anyone else. The only thing I don't like is the tailpipes so close to the rear tires. They clear by about 3/4".

I will post more pictures later of the exhaust system.

[Dick Boneske]

Getting close to startup!! Need to put distributor in, hook up radiator, and fire it up!! I ran the oil pump until all the rockers had oil. I'm going to do the initial startup without the power steering belt on because I remember how finicky it is keeping it from foaming over, etc.

[michaelroy]

Are you sure you have that tripower set up right? You rookies sometime don't get things right. Just kidding, that motor looks like "NEW MONEY" Good Job!

[michaelroy]

Forgot to mention, that fan is the prettiest part.

[Dick Boneske]

Regarding the fan, isn't it amazing what a little polishing, sanding, and painting will do? Actually, A LOT of polishing and about two hours of masking for paint.

In any case, it was well worth the effort, as not many '64/'65's have this correct fan.

Regarding your Tripower, it will be better than the fan when it's done.

Thanks, Mike.

[viperx65]

Did you polish or paint the blades? If yes to paint, what paint did you use. Thanks.

[Dick Boneske]

I polished them with Scotchbrite cloth after taking out the deeper marks with 240 emery paper. Filed the edges where rough after straightening with a smooth-jawed pliers and a body hammer and anvil.

I left them bare. Was considering putting Rustoleum clear or Eastwood satin on them, but when the time comes to "clean them up," I'd have a problem with the coating. I realize the aluminum won't stay shiney long, but neither will a lot of the rest of the car.

It's too bad a restoration doesn't look as good five years after completion as it did the day it was done.

[Dick Boneske]

Finally started the engine on Sunday. Temporarily mounted the radiator support and radiator and hooked up a battery. After starting, I ran it for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm after setting timing. Had a small water leak on the heater hose to the intake manifold, but this was an easy fix. Added some pictures below. Also, here is a 4 minute video of the startup. I pre-filled the center carb with gas so it fired right away.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg2ifiX8DKI

Now to put the sheet metal on and get this tiger on the street where it belongs!!

[Old Goat 67]

Great feeling isn't it Dick?

Sounds good, you are doing a fine job.

Charles

[gto_ron]

Hi Dick

I enjoyed the video. I wish I had enough foresight to have started mine with the fenders off, makes much easier access. I noticed no crankcase blow-by from your breather tube. I'm still getting some crankcase fumes after about thirty minutes of running. Checked the PCV valve and there is suction. I used moly rings which usually seal quickly on a 60-degree crosshatch. I wish I had installed the RA exhaust manifolds like yours. They look good.

regards

[Jim Perez]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Regarding the fan, isn't it amazing what a little polishing, sanding, and painting will do? Actually, A LOT of polishing and about two hours of masking for paint.

In any case, it was well worth the effort, as not many '64/'65's have this correct fan.

Regarding your Tripower, it will be better than the fan when it's done.

Thanks, Mike.

Hi Dick, First I'd like to say, very nice car/color combo you have. Looks great so far!!!

I was wondering about your fan, are you saying 64/65 are the same as in your photo? Notched? I will try to include a pic of my fan from my original (dad) owner 65. As far as I know this is the one that came on it. 65 4sp tri pwr red interior maroon? exterior

Thanks,
Jim

[Dick Boneske]

I believe the notched fan was unique to '64/'65 with power steering. Whether other combos in those years had the notched fan is unknown to me. I remember my '64 without power steering, when new, had a fan similar to the notched fan, but had no notches. It was not curved like yours in the picture.

[Dick Boneske]

Have had a few steps backward after initial startup.

Throttle was sticking badly off idle. Problem was one created by me. The throttle lever was rubbing on the throttle body because I positioned the throttle shaft too far to the right. Fixed this and it works fine!!

I'm getting a few drops of oil off the rear of the engine.(rear main?). I'm hoping it's excess rtv on the BOP lip seal and that running the engine will "wear in" the lip.

The most serious problem is the front U joints rubbing on the body tunnel when I lean toward the center of the car while in the driver's seat. The replacement floor seems to flex much too easily. If anyone has ideas on this, I'd welcome their suggestions. I looked at one fix on a Corvette site. These guys put fairly rigid rubber between the trans crossmember and the floor to hold it up. Corvettes are really prone to this problem.

[Andre]

On the rubbing u joint situation. I shaved a bit of the rubber off the bottom of the insulators for the cross member to frame mount. This dropped the tail of the trans enough to gain clearance.
Another spot to study would be the trans to crossmember mount. If that mount is a hair too tall, it will contribute.
Finally the most noticeable is if your frame at the cross member mount area is slightly bent upwards. This will also contribute.
You don't need much adjustment on any of these to solve this.

[Teej]

Dick,

Hey, I don't want to hijack your thread.... Check your PM's as I may have some tri-power work for you if you are interested.

Thanks

[Dick Boneske]

Rubbing U joint problem went away when I removed the jack stands from the frame adjacent to the transmission crossmember bolts. When the car is jacked up from the front crossmember under the engine, U-joint clearance behind the transmission goes from 1/8" to about 3/8". I need to try it with two people in the front seats. Thanks for the feedback Andre. I'll try your ideas if the problem rears its ugly head again.

Teej, PM being sent.

[Dick Boneske]

Finally got the engine running good, power steering issues resolved, and rubber shields installed on the front inner fenders. After I touch up the damage to the black paint around the staples, I want to begin mounting the front sheet metal.

Is it best to mount the inner fenders and core support first, leaving the bolts loose---then mounting the front fenders? I know some guys mount the inners to the fenders first and put them on as an assy. It seems to me it would be easier to avoid chipping the paint on the fenders if they were set on after the inners were mounted.

It's been 30 years since I've last done this. We weren't so fussy in those days. Your ideas/opinions would be appreciated.

[gto_ron]

Dick

I always mount the inner wheelhousing to the fenders first. I just use lots of masking tape at the fender edges( double thickness), door edges, etc. to avoid chips. I tried doing them separately once and didn't like it; it was a pain to get the wheelhouse lip with the cage nuts to line up with the underside of the fender after installation. This is just me, there are probably better bodymen out there who disagree.

regards