[bill ryder]

THANKS JOHN V. My resto book is loing gone somewhere. had PAUL and JIM''s autograph on it... DARN
Carbs will stay as is; my ole' buddy TOM V. set them up that way, but I DO appreciate the info.
The fan will be returned to natural. Car was built 4E so that closely fits what you reported!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Tom Vaught]

I can see where the Rochester Carburetor Engineer might think that some Tri-Powers might run better in the Hot Summer Weather in southern Illinois. (:>) with the pump rod in the outer hole. So you see it was more than just a High Altitude mod, folks.

As my car was 4A, Bill, the Curved Linkage could be installed on your carbs and be correct too, if you ever went mechanical.

Tom Vaught

[bill ryder]

Good point,Tom. Question. If a dealer had installed the mechanical kit, in the '60's, what would they have removed AND what would they just plug off. That would make or keep it correct>

[Tom Vaught]

My car still had the Vacuum Can mounted. The Thermostatic Valve on the intake cross-over had a looped section of vacuum hose connecting the nipples. The Vacuum Nipple on the front carb has a piece of lead shot installed in the vacuum passage, (a common carburetor passage blocking method). There was no vacuum diaphragm or vacuum switch installed. The vent port/tube on the front carb had a rubber plug installed over the nipple of the tube. The carbs still had the heavy springs on the secondary carbs. The rear lever/shaft was installed by Rochester Products on Job #, Crows foot peaning of the screws. The Curved Extension had the longer accelerator cable stud that also attached the Curved Extension to the carb lever.

Those are the changes I remember clearly, my pumps were in the inner hole, LOL.

Tom Vaught

[gto_ron]

Bill

The engine looks great, nothing beats raising the hood of a 64-66 Goat and seeing an engine like yours.

I never worry whether a bolt head is plated or natural, it takes the enjoyment out of restoring these great cars. I want my engine to look stock but not to the point of worrying about minutia(sp?) Try to follow the factory guidelines but you'll see that there were many areas that are still vague as to what is 'correct'.

regards and happy cruising this summer..

[JAKE 64]

Bill:

I started this response twice, and deleted it twice. I feel very uncomfortable providing a critique of someone’s work, even when it is requested by that individual. However, with the engine not yet mounted in the car, I would be remiss in not offering some suggestions. It would become rather difficult to act, if you decide to do so, once the engine is installed. Reluctantly, I offer the following suggestions for your consideration.

Ron Cozzo is correct in that the distributor bracket and its bolt are natural. The bracket in the photo appears to be zink chromate. Zinc chromate has a much brighter appearance than clear cadmium, with cadmium being the plating of choice in 1964 for most of the nuts, bolts, washers and brackets. The distributor body is painted black in a 50º sheen. However, I do not believe that your application utilizes the lower Delcotron Mounting Brace (I believe Ron referred to it as a bracket), but would use the Delcotron Extension Plate, which would be silver (clear) cadmium ‘cad’ plated.

I can’t tell if it is just the photo, but the exhaust manifolds appear extremely light, perhaps the result of an application of a ceramic or jet spray coating (I am not familiar with either). Before rust became visible, the manifolds leaving the foundry/machine shop would have a darker cast gray appearance with a slight sheen to them. Spray paints and dressings are available to provide this appearance. (I wish I had ceramic coated my manifolds, as I am having a whale of a time with rust.)

Just a general comment. I noticed that the back side freeze plugs are not painted, which leads me to believe that new freeze plugs were installed throughout. I have seen some recent offerings where the freeze plugs have had numbers stamped in them. The originals were blank, with no stampings provided, and any visible inscriptions on the plugs should be hidden.
When the engines were painted, the corporation wanted them done efficiently = $, quickly =$, and per QC standards = $. To facilitate this $ goal, the use of the chrome valve cover required the use of jigs. A jig properly positioned above the valve cover would still permit paint overspray on the valve cover gasket, which was originally cork, and some overspray on the bottom lips of the valve cover. However, the valve cover retaining bolts would have little, if any, paint coverage. I have seen the results of improperly positioned jigs, where they appeared to ride high on one side, and low on the other. In these instances, the overspray rides higher up on one side, but is not present on the low side, with the valve cover lip, cork gasket, and upper ~1/4 in. of the head free of any paint. Where the bolts are exposed, some paint has been noted on only the outside edge of the bolt, with little noted in the recessed surface of the bolt head. And again, this would only appear on two of the four bolts. Surprisingly, over the years, I have seen little evidence of paint overspray on the bolt heads, but significant amounts on valve covers.
As a result of the use of the jigs, you can often see the demarcation line where the paint stops on the top of the bracket that is used to secure the oil dip stick tube. This bracket is secured by the front, right side valve cover bolt. Because of the use of the jigs, the oil dip stick was removed to facilitate the placement of the jigs over the valve covers, and the dip stick handle/bell would not have been on the engine when the engine was painted, and should not have paint coverage.
As the fuel filter bracket was painted attached to the engine, the retaining nut was present, and should also be painted engine blue.
I checked my notes and I specifically addressed the water pump bolt located at the 12 o’clock position that also secures the upper alternator strap. This bolt should be painted engine blue.
However, unlike the water pump bolt, the two bolts securing the throttle bracket should not be painted, and should be cad plated.
Can you comment on the left side valve cover, as I believe by mid January, the supply of the original valve covers minus the hole and plug would have been exhausted.

In the small catalog “A device for shrinking time and distance” there is a picture on page 7 showing two small hoses feeding to/from the Carburetor Thermostatic Vacuum Control Assembly. In the photo, the two hoses are shown as being painted engine blue. I typically do not give much credence to factory photos, but believe this photo does depict how normal production engines were painted. On the Vacuum Hose to Reserve Tank Connector Tee that I removed from my April built car, there was still evidence of engine paint on one of the ports (“A” in picture) of the Tee. I believe it was the practice of the plant to mount these two hoses prior to painting the engine, and as such, would be painted engine blue. When I obtained this car, the entire vacuum system except for the hoses, was still intact, and unmolested. Unfortunately, a prior owner replaced all the hoses, and I don’t know if the Tee was also painted, or if the paint was transposed onto the Tee when it was inserted into the hose. As there is no other evidence of blue engine paint on the remaining surfaces of the Tee, I believe the Tee was not present, and that the paint was transferred to the Tee when it was inserted into the hose following the painting of the engine.

I have included a picture of the fan and fan clutch for your reference.

The starter cable was routed (except earlier production) behind the rear of the left manifold and through a cad plated metal tube. An asbestos tube/sleeve (sort of a brick red in color – two in photo still need to be cleaned) slipped over the metal tube. The sleeve provided protection against the heat, and protected the cable insulations from damage from the sharp upper surface of the metal tube.

Bill, if you have a junk yard nearby, you might be able to find the correct valve cover breather cap (trapezoid). I have found several of these push on caps on other GM products, and recall finding some of the ones pictured on large and small GMC and Chevy trucks. The only difference is that the GTO’s are chromed, and the others painted black. All other details are the same.

If your carb tags are repro (my eyes aren’t that great), you have just turned your three carburetors into 1966 GTO carbs, assembled in December, 1965. My April built car had carbs assembled in March and April, and only the center carb tag was anodized, and it was done in black. Hold on to your original tags if you still have them.

Thanks again for inspiring me in learning how to include digital pictures in this forum. I wish I had learned earlier, as it would have been nice to have digital pictures of unrestored parts and assemblies.

[JAKE 64]

Bill,

A couple of more pictures.

[60sstuff]

Jake64 - Glad you are able to post pics as they are very helpful!

I believe there were two fans used on the 64 GTO's and I see you show a black painted curved tip fan which is shown on a 64 GTO 4 BBL. test car article in pic below. Is the bigger aluminum straight blade fan seen on other 64 test cars and on a recently posted 8000 mile survivor used with the 3.90 equipped cars ??

Pics of a few Vacuum components - Tee #538962 showing the paint (blue on nipple protected from heat by the hose and exposed paint being burnt) and two different length Tee brackets. The long one is whats on my 66 Vacuum Tri-Power car. Not sure when the short version was used?

[60sstuff]

An NOS example I just acquired. The seller told me this is the AC box that it was in when he found it and it's missing one end flap.

[bill ryder]

Spent Memorial day shoehorning the engine back in where it belongs. Didn't even scratch anything. BOB V. says I'm "old old school". I was "nervous as a ____________ in church"!
Now lots more detailing!!

[bill ryder]

Now I'm waiting on the correct alt. fan and my aluminum bladed fan to get back..

[Jerry H.]

Looks fantastic. I'm not that up on 64's; so the wire loom bracket in 64 in on the top of the passenger valve cover? I know on 65-66 it's on the driver's side valve cover.

[Carl A]

If the 65 vacuum system is the same as 64 , your line from the vacuum switch on the center carb to the rear carb pot should be reversed--- smaller radius bend to the switch.
Some pictures on this old thread.http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=620328 #4 #10

[Tom Vaught]

Carl A is correct. Steel Vacuum Line needs to be flipped end for end.

An easy mistake, Do not know if I installed that steel line that way years ago.
If so, brain fade.

Tom Vaught

[bill ryder]

OK I TURNED THE STEEL LINE AROUND. DOES THAT LOOK TO BE ABOUT THE CORRECT POSITION?? I'll cut my vac hose next. Does the line come to close to the rear air breather base. LMK!!!!

[Tom Vaught]

You can shift the metal line somewhat forward, by increasing the length of the rear hose going from the line to the Vacuum Diaphragm.

Tom Vaught

[Ken K]

They made bent tip fans in both steel and aluminum. Your blades should be aluminum. The steel fans weigh more. There are also different fan blade widths on some of the strait blade aluminum fans. The Pontiac fan clutch are different than the aftermarket fan clutch. The clutch has a date code in the front that was put on with some kind stamp.

[60sstuff]

Originally Posted by bill ryder

OK I TURNED THE STEEL LINE AROUND. DOES THAT LOOK TO BE ABOUT THE CORRECT POSITION?? I'll cut my vac hose next. Does the line come to close to the rear air breather base. LMK!!!!

Bill - Seems to need a little tweak / bend so the steel vacuum line matches right up to the vacuum switch nipple where the OEM ribbed hose holds them together.

[bill ryder]

BETTER? ABOUT AS GOOD AS I GET IT. lmk

[John V.]

Bill, here are some attachments that might help.

First is the factory illustration. It depicts the '64 big car so not everything is absolutely identical for the GTO, but that particular line should be identical.

Rest of it are pics somebody sent me some time ago of what appeared to be a pretty original set-up. Hopefully enough of that line is shown to give you a good idea of it.

The rubber hose at the diaphragm was supposed to 7/32" x 1-1/4" according to the Parts List associated with the Illustration (item 12).