[Brian Baker]

I haven't raced in 15 years and in that time have sporadically been on this board, leaving me "out of the loop", but as I read this thread I can't help but think "15 years later and some things never change".

[bpenrod]

This is sad. Glad I never bought on from them.

[opeliac]

Guess that answers my question about which block i'm gonna order.

If there is enough porosity to leak like that, I just cant imagine that the strength isnt compromised.

[73 TRANSAM]

This is not a porosity problem, I believe they put a pipe plug in there to seal the hole from removing the sands from the casting process. IA2 is the same procedure. I would let them know first before you go crazy on your options. Good luck.

[twooldgoats]

Originally Posted by injectedbird

Has anyone had water leaking into lifter valley on mr-1 blocks ?

Have you contacted the seller?


Jim

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by 73 TRANSAM

This is not a porosity problem, I believe they put a pipe plug in there to seal the hole from removing the sands from the casting process. IA2 is the same procedure. I would let them know first before you go crazy on your options. Good luck.

Pipe plug in the valley? Can you post a pic of what you talking about?

[mgarblik]

I have never built an MR1 block. But I have worked with plenty of castings that have some little "fizzers". That's what we call the tiny imperfections that will "fizz tiny bubbles" when you pressure test the casting. Typically, as the casting heats, they get a little worse and can put a little water in the oil. Very common in iron castings. Typically, in production engines, they will rust themselves shut rather quickly in a passenger car engine and it isn't worried about. For GM, the problem became serious for the first time with the Cadillac HT 4100 aluminum block/iron head engine. They wouldn't self-seal because of the aluminum block.
GM developed cooling system tablets for this issue and installed 6 of them in every Cadillac on the assembly line. I have some even better sealer, it is a powder not available in the general market. If the OP wants to PM me, I can provide some more info. IMO, it's a better alternative to block replacement on a fully prepared race block. Another option is to have the internal surfaces of the casting sealed with a pressure ceramic sealer. That cost a few hundred bucks.

[bluegoat65]

Originally Posted by Ken MacNicol

A friend of mine had the same problem, it took forever for them to answer the phone {as usual}, then they sent him another block . It did the same thing, then they would not answer the phone.

Is this a picture of your friends block?

[Stan Weiss]

Stan

[Skip Fix]

"Another option is to have the internal surfaces of the casting sealed with a pressure ceramic sealer" I think I remember Smokey Yunick doing that on early GM BB aluminum heads.

[73 TRANSAM]

When I first got my IA2 block, it looks like a thread is exposed to where it was leaking. So I figured they put a pipe plug there and milled it. But I didn't like a fix for a brand new block so Frank took care of me and gave me another block. But I could be wrong. Only guys that can tell us are KRE for sure.

[73 TRANSAM]

Originally Posted by slowbird

Pipe plug in the valley? Can you post a pic of what you talking about?

I do not have any pictures as it was back when I had my Blackberry phone. They always ask you to pressure test first before you do any machine work.

[younggto]

Something I have been curious of is on the IA assembly sheet they state to pressure test the cooling and oiling systems before doing anything. The cooling system wouldn’t be that hard as the blocks are dry decked; can this be done with air such as using an AirLift and pulling a vacuum? But how the heck would you do the oiling system?

[F/S GTO]

The block I got must've had some imperfections that where repaired with welding and then decked before I got it. My machinist sent these pics to me before he did anything. One of these must've of sprung a leak and filled the crankcase,I could see the trail down the valley but not a direct leak between the imperfections in the deck and the trail. Last year at the track I used Bar's stop leak this year I'm going with the GM pellets .

[Steve C.]

ANY PART MODIFIED FROM ITS ORIGINAL FORM WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED AS A RETURN.

ALL SALES ARE FINAL AFTER 10 DAYS.

Warranty – Due to the extreme demand placed on racing and performance products, they are sold “as is” and without any express warranty or implied warrant of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. Kauffman Performance LTD. shall not be liable for any loss, damage, or injury.


.

[injectedbird]

So from the amount of views and responses I am assuming the MR1 blocks the leak that I have is not a common one then correct?

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by younggto

Something I have been curious of is on the IA assembly sheet they state to pressure test the cooling and oiling systems before doing anything. The cooling system wouldn’t be that hard as the blocks are dry decked; can this be done with air such as using an AirLift and pulling a vacuum? But how the heck would you do the oiling system?

You can use your air lift system similar to the water system. I screw in 16 solid set screws in the lifter holes, I have a block off plate for the oil filter pad, and then use clay to plug the main feeds in the block. put in the gallery plugs and pull your vacuum through the last one. Not a terrible ordeal.

[chiefbigb]

If your worried about the company your dealing with your dealing with the wrong company. Period

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

ANY PART MODIFIED FROM ITS ORIGINAL FORM WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED AS A RETURN.

ALL SALES ARE FINAL AFTER 10 DAYS.

Warranty – Due to the extreme demand placed on racing and performance products, they are sold “as is” and without any express warranty or implied warrant of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. Kauffman Performance LTD. shall not be liable for any loss, damage, or injury.


.

10 days after purchase or delivery ..... That could an awfully short period of time to inspect things.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

10 days after purchase or delivery ..... That could an awfully short period of time to inspect things.

Either way it's a short time frame.