[michaeld]

This actually happened a couple of months ago, but I was too despairing to deal with it until now.

I was driving happily down the freeway in my Yak when suddenly a bunch of liquid splattered my windshield.

I knew it was coolant. If there hadn't been an off ramp, I would have immediately pulled over (my advice now: ALWAYS immediately pull over) on the freeway. But there was an off ramp right there. So I took it.

But it turned out that it was worse than the freeway. So I had to keep going. Then I had to go over a bridge.

Finally, close to a freaking mile later, I finally got to where I could get off the road safely.

It was just as I was parking that I saw my idiot light finally go off to notify me that yes, I was an idiot.

When I lifted the hood, there was coolant EVERYWHERE. And my lower hose had a giant - and I mean GIANT - tear in it.

I replaced the hose, filled the radiator, and started the car. I saw what appeared to be pulsing in the water at the top of the radiator, which I've heard is a sign of a head gasket failure.

Oh, nooooo.

Just the other day, I finally drove the car to my mechanic to have him check the head.

And prayed.

Later that day he left a message that my thermostat was stuck (he didn't say whether it was stuck open or closed). I called back and authorized a new thermostat so they could do the test on the head.

Then I prayed some more.

Drove by and stopped in near 5:00. Saw a thermostat on the counter as I talked to the wife of the owner.

Went home and prayed.

Next day, I called. Talked to Reuben (the master mechanic). He said they delivered the wrong thermostat, and he'd get to it later.

Hung up the phone and prayed.

Finally got a call. The head gasket was fine (he said he'd done a block test and a compression test), and he's a GOOD mechanic.

He told me my fan clutch was shot.

Prayed again to thank God the head gasket was okay, and picked up the car. Reuben said he figured the fan clutch failed, which made the thermostat stick, which caused the hose to blow up.

And I'm guessing my idiot light isn't working, given that you'd think it probably should have gone off BEFORE my hose exploded, and BEFORE I drove a mile with little to no coolant.

I'm going to replace the water pump when I do the clutch. I'm also going to install an actual temp gauge while I'm at it.

Thanking God I didn't ruin my car. I need to replace the vinyl top, and I just don't think I could have justified the expense of a major engine job.

I was really bummed out about losing that Grandville. Really happy she's still with me.

Did I mention I'm thanking God???

[Keith Vrabec]

Had thermostat failures in the past. No fun.

Doesn't take much to blow out an old hose either.

Gald your GV didn't cook!!

Make sure the pump has the turbine style impeller!!

Keep her rolling!!

[michaeld]

I already bought a pump (although I haven't installed it yet).

A Cardone Select CP975.

I don't know what a "turbine-style impeller" looks like to know.

What I liked about it most was it was brand new, not a reman, meaning I can keep the old pump which still works without eating a core charge.

The old pump is the original 1973 unit. Just like the fan clutch. And the starter. And the alternator.

The good thing about a very-low mileage (under 62,000) old car is that many of the parts are still original. The bad thing about a very-low mileage old car is that many of the parts are still original.

[David Brown]

The upper hose has much hotter coolant than a lower hose and tends to get more pressure since the coolant is coming directly from the engine. Make sure your front timing cover seal is not leaking, or any other seal such as A/C compressor or power steering pump. Oil on a radiator hose can soften it and lead to failure. I've seen some hoses that resemble very stiff Jello.

[michaeld]

David,

I'll try to see if something like that is going on, but it didn't look like that hose had softened due to oil exposure at the time.

When I first got the car, I set out to flush the radiator and replace the coolant, and replace the 2 hoses. But the lower hose had one of those OEM (at least, that's what I think) clamps, and the screw snapped when I tried to remove it. So I only replaced the top hose. And then I kind of forgot about the lower hose. It might have just died of old age.

Interesting conundrum: what went bad first: the hose, the thermostat (which I replaced when I got the car), or the fan clutch???

P.S. I've also got a new "issue." When I was trying to remove the old water pump today, I snapped the head off of one of the main bolts that fasten the pump to the engine block. Any ideas on how to deal with this unfortunate situation????

[David Brown]

If you remove the rest of them and remove the pump, there might be enough sticking out to use vice grips. Just soak it with WD30 or something to try to loosen it up. Let it soak, maybe tap it lightly and maybe heat it up with a torch to break it loose.

[michaeld]

David,

That was my plan. And a darn good one, too, I thought.

Until I tried to remove the first bolt I thought I'd loosened. Turns out it was stripped.

So now I've got a broken bolt that's flush with the pump, and a stripped bolt that is sticking about 1" out.

And I haven't had the guts to try to remove the other bolts that go into the engine yet. Two bad bolts out of two has made me a bolt-coward.

As my good friend Homer Simpson once said - "D'OH!!!"

I'd rather not remove the timing chain cover for obvious reasons. The engine is so low-mileaged it most probably doesn't need a new timing chain. That's the up-side of having an engine that is low-mileaged enough that it has a 37 year-old water pump.

If I'm going to drill them out, what do you think - diamond or carbide bits?

I'm trying to figure out what tools I'll need, and I'm also trying to figure out how to use those tools should I buy them.

One day, maybe years from now, I'm sure I'll laugh about this.

[jrainieri]

I had the same worst case senario last year on my 71 GTO. I was not that concerned with the water pump bolts--it was the bolts that go through to the block that hold the timing cover on that snapped on me. Drilling the water pump bolts out of the cover is very tough because it is aluminum---you will probably need to overdrill and helicoil or replace the timing cover. I can tell you, the best product to use is PB Blaster to loosen up any oxidation or rust on these bolts. If the water pump bolts busted the timing cover bolts are sure to be frozen solid and will probably bust as well. I wound up removing my timing cover in pieces with an 8 pound mallet, then extracting/driilling the bolts out of the block with many carbide bits. Be sure to remove the radiator if you need to do that! Don't ask! It all worked out in the end--didn't even need to helicoil the timing cover bolts into the block. It took me over over 10 hours to do this job!

Good luck.

[mike nixon]

If these are the long bolts that broke off drill an 1/8" hole in the cover above the bolts apply light heat to the cover along the surface of the cover where the bolt goes thru it. spray a lubricant in the hole while the cover is still warm. gently work the bolt bolt back and forth. repeat as needed.

[Txbobcat]

That radiator flush may have started this problem. That stuff is very corrosive. I did a Lemans one time and within 2 weeks I had to replace every hose on the car. As for the idiot temp lite they are useless never trust them. Keep on trusting in God

[michaeld]

Originally Posted by Txbobcat

Keep on trusting in God

Well, there's the best advice of all.

I managed to get the bolt I thought was stripped out (I'm still cleaning it to get a better look at the threads). I put vice grips on it and pulled as I turned, and finally got that bad boy out.

I am HOPING I don't have to pull the timing chain cover. But I'll do what I gotta do.

I am now looking at the two bottom bolts that go into the timing chain cover. I was told to give them some raps with a hammer, and keep rapping as I go. I was also told to bring heat (and it's too darn bad the Texas Rangers didn't bring more heat).

I've never used heat. So I'm wondering about the process. Do I heat red hot and immediately try to turn? Do I NOT heat red hot? Do I heat more than once?

My propane torch is ready to go; it's the operator who is confused.

Thanks a lot for the advice. I've belonged to a couple other car forms (different makes), and this one has been the best ever.

Michael

[mike nixon]

The timing cover is aluminum and won't turn red it'll just melt away.

heat it for about a minute and watch the metal while you're doing it. if it puddles or starts to look like it to back the heat off.
Mike

[michaeld]

Originally Posted by mike nixon

The timing cover is aluminum and won't turn red it'll just melt away.

heat it for about a minute and watch the metal while you're doing it. if it puddles or starts to look like it to back the heat off.
Mike

I was figuring on applying the torch to the end of the bolt, rather than the cover.

That's where I'm supposed to put the heat, right???

[mike nixon]

With a long bolt you'll need to heat the cover also. If you drill the hole i suggested above you can run penetrating oil down it while it's warm and it'll help break the corrosion loose.

[michaeld]

Well, guys, the good news is I got the water pump off.

The bad news is that I broke the same bolt I already had broken.

After getting the pump off, I had about an inch of stud to work with.

I rapped on it with the hammer, sprayed AB Blaster, and then rapped and sprayed several more times. Then I put the torch on it for a minute plus.

I put a bolt extractor on it (the extractor was meant for a stripped head, but I used one that was small enough to stick to the stud) and put the wrench on it.

And it turned. I was very happy.

Until it broke just like the first time.

Now it is flush with the timing chain cover.

I'm going to try to drill it out. I ordered a set of carbide bits, and a set of left-hand HSS titanium bits.

If that doesn't work, I'll pull the timing chain cover.

I'm afraid to pull the cover, because I've never done that before. And because I would feel obliged to replace the timing chain. Which I've also never done before.

I don't want this job to get beyond my abilities. And I'm in this mess because I decided to do the water pump even though it was fine. Don't want to get myself into an even bigger jam by deciding to replace my timing chain even though it's fine.

I'm still thankful that I didn't ruin my head gasket, everything considered.

[mike nixon]

I'll bet the bolt is corroded to the cover in the hole it passes thru.

[michaeld]

Mike,

I'm going to try drilling the bolt out. I'll start with a small hole with a carbide bit on my Dremel, and then just keep making it bigger. At some point, I'll switch to left-hand titanium bits with the drill in reverse.

I hope to first weaken the strength of the bolt by hollowing it out, and then "catch" the weakened bolt with the left-hand bit.

I'll have to wait a few days for the bits to arrive. I'll post back to let you know how the drilling goes.

Who knows? Maybe there are some little tiny Chilean minor guys trapped and waiting for me to rescue them...

[Lightfoot]

I had an experience with a broken W/P bolt myself.
On a 301, snapped one of the outer RH side small bolts. It was flush with the timing cover IIRC. I ever so carefully drilled it with progressively larger bits. It's really hard to get it started dead center, but I did alright for leaning over the grill. After I got it drilled as close to the threads as I dared, I tried a brand new square cut screw extractor. It was the best extractor that I could find, locally. The stud wouldn't budge, even after I had let it soak overnight with PB Blaster.
After several attempts hammering in the extractor, and holding my breath that it too, wouldn't break off, I gave up.
I made a decision to just install the W/P and omit the one bolt. It was in close proxemity to another bolt, so I felt confident it would seal OK. I never had a problem.

[michaeld]

Lightfoot,

I can't say I haven't thought about that.

On my pump, there are like 11 bolts. And they are all equally spaced apart.

It has occurred to me to add a clamp directly where the bolt would be, use the gasket sealant, and cross my fingers.

It's also occurred to me that the clamp could come off due to vibration and go flying into the fan - and then hurled with great force into the radiator like a bullet.

I've been told that the drilling would not work, and I will have to remove the timing chain cover to get the proper access to this bolt.

Does anyone know about a good book/manual that describes (and better yet, photographs) a timing chain cover removal and timing chain install on an engine suitably similar to a 455?

[David Brown]

I replaced one on my Bonneville 455 in 1980 in an apartment parking lot over a weekend. I used the 1970 Pontiac Service Manual. It's pretty straight forward and easy to do. When I did mine, it was my one and only car, and I needed it to run Monday morning for work. It did!