[yellow1098]

Originally Posted by VCho455

Lot's of good advice above. I will add that at present there is no reason to put any further money into the engine. The rest will come from tuning the car. Dyno tuning may help at this point but it isn't going to help with getting the car to launch and pull the top end.

Don't get excited and start changing a bunch of things. Change one thing at a time then test at the track. Testing without timing equipment usually isn't productive as your Butt Dyno will lie to you most of the time.

Your suspension parts are geared toward auto-cross and road racing which are counter productive when it comes to drag racing. Nothing wrong with those parts (I too have PTFB suspension on my 72 so no bias here) just keep in mind they will limit how well the car hooks up and covers the first 60 feet. Putting some 15 wheels and drag radials will help with the launch if your rear end isn't up to slicks. Do you have a drive shaft loop? It will be required to run with slicks.

That makes sense about the PTFB suspension….what changes would you make to gear it more towards drag? Aside from the slicks …Dave suggested those anti squat brackets specifically instead of Caltracs

Also what would suggest to pull more on the top end?

Thank you again everyone….all great info indeed

[ta man]

Have fun testing at the track its a great hobby, like others have said one change at a time and test. My old combo I had in my car I started at low 12's/114 and eventually ran 10.96 at 123..with the same engine combo,gearing and convertor. Set little goals as well they always help to push the tune..but the dragstrip is where you learn the most..good or bad.

[yellow1098]

Originally Posted by ta man

Have fun testing at the track its a great hobby, like others have said one change at a time and test. My old combo I had in my car I started at low 12's/114 and eventually ran 10.96 at 123..with the same engine combo,gearing and convertor. Set little goals as well they always help to push the tune..but the dragstrip is where you learn the most..good or bad.

Thats exactly what my mindset and goals are! That’s also exactly what I was looking for with the thread to see where to learn and start with those tunes and tweeks

[Skip Fix]

I'd start with engine timing at the track. Then different launch techniques.-just hitting it, footbraking to different RPM. If spinning different tire pressures-going down, instead of in autcrossing going up intil you are not rolling over on the sidewall!

[Lee]

You can't hook a Terminator to a laptop? That is how I datalog with my FAST XFI Sportsman system.

Maybe I missed the info - is that cam a roller or flat, hydraulic or solid? I was running 11.5's in my '67 Firebird with a 231/239 HFT cam (3.42 gears), with a 1.53 60'. I then switched to a SFT that was 247/247 - I lost a few hundredths on my 60', but picked up a few MPH and ran 11.2's

If you have a solid cam, then a day on a chassis dyno could be very beneficial. On a solid roller car I use to have, I spent several hours testing valve lash. Cam card said to start at 0.026"/0.026". I ended up at 0.021"/0.024", picking up 15+hp at peak, and 25+hp around 4500rpm. Getting your timing and AFR dialed in can be a significant power improvement as well.

[yellow1098]

Thank you again fellas!!

I am definitely going to get setup for a good dyno tuning session once I find a good place locally that can do it…..

I will also be adjusting some timing at the track to see what improvements I can make there as I’m sure there is quite a bit…right now its just my guess and I gave it about 32 degree at WOT

I have been playing with the launch the last couple time and the best result so far is just hammering it off idle…powerbraking it to even 2k blew the tires off but I will try more options

The Cam is a Hydraulic Roller setup

Yes I can plug in the laptop to datalog with the terminator but it’s a bit tough to have the laptop in the car running at the track….But I did find out I can do it on the small handheld

[Skip Fix]

So are you spinning hitting it off idle?

[yellow1098]

No I can leave off idle but only at probably 70-80% throttle and then I can floor it so Im sure its costing a bunch on the 60ft

[yellow1098]

Also as far the 2.5 inch exhaust chocking the engine….what do you guys think of electric cutouts? Maybe I just start another thread around that….or if there is any existing ones posting it would be very much appreciated

[Lee]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

No I can leave off idle but only at probably 70-80% throttle and then I can floor it so Im sure its costing a bunch on the 60ft

Play with the tune. You are controlling timing with the Terminator, right?
Back off on the timing at the launch RPM
Back off of the enrichment fuel (similar to going with smaller squirters).
You should be able to tweak the tune to allow WOT off the line.

[Skip Fix]

Some sticky DOTs for the rear and foot brake it! When I autocrossed my car I fir 4 road race slicks in it , changed at the track to race and swapped street tires for the drive home.
Electric cutouts or I used to have about a 1 ft section flanged on both ends of the collector reducer to tail pipes I could drop out and uncork.

[prostreet64]

Not much to add. Some great advice from guys who have been there. And as one post pointed out you don't want to start throwing parts at it. Do as much as you can with the current setup and then start with the first upgrade that will give the most benefit. Sometimes that is not real clear. But from what I see I would solve the traction issue first. If you can't go wot at the launch you will never have consistency to tell what works and what doesn't. On my T/A I have subframe connectors, one way adjustable shocks, factory leaf springs and Assassin traction bars. Your current rear suspension set up may rule out the traction bars? Anyway, with the M/T ET street SS drag radials in 275-60/15 I rarely have any problem hooking up if track prep is halfway decent. My PTC converter is 3000 stall and it doesn't seem to matter if I launch off idle at say 1100 or at 2200. I could benefit from a looser converter but I drive on the street so this one is a compromise. Not sure how much sidewall you have on the 17" rims but that may be a factor. Those radials need to wrinkle to absorb the initial hit and not spin.
Second on my list would be the exhaust. I have 3" pipes, 3" x-pipe and 3" Dynomax ultra flow muflers and full 3" tailpipes. You have a great basic combo just needs some careful tuning and don't be hesitant to try different things. One word of caution concerns the rear end and drive shaft. Once you solve the traction issue and the car dead hooks you will find any weak link in the drive train! Best of luck and keep us posted.

[yellow1098]

Awesome aweoms info guys can’t thank you enough again for all the tips and info…love this community!

Yes i can control timing and I will definitley make those adjustments and see what it does!

As well as I’m going to get a separate pair of 15’s and DOTs to swap on for the track….anyone have any ones close to the snowflakes?

Yes…one thing at a time and I’m gonna start there with tuning it with timing and fuel table as well as get the cutouts and 15’s and sticky’s

[Skip Fix]

I have stickies on 8" snowflakes-also ran slicks on them. 275-60-15s fit.

[grandam1979]

So I see you’re already running good tires what kind of burnout are you doing? Are you actually getting them hot? Very surprised it just blows them off.

[yellow1098]

It only blows them off if I powerbrake it ….I do just a slight burnout but maybe I could let them roast alittle more it will help

[prostreet64]

I don't have personal experience with the M/T e-street radials but I would play around with tire pressure. On my ss radials I have best success at 19-20 psi. My son runs 18-19 on his car. Every combo is different. At some point the lower pressure will cause the tire to cup in the middle reducing your contact patch.

[yellow1098]

So with the tires hooking correct what would be the idle rpm to shoot for leaving at? I know that’s different for every setup but just to get an idea

[Lee]

Originally Posted by yellow1098

So with the tires hooking correct what would be the idle rpm to shoot for leaving at? I know that’s different for every setup but just to get an idea

I usually run my drag radials at 23-25psi. On my old Firebird I got as good as a 1.53 60' with MT's regular DR's. On my Falcon wagon, I got 1.52 with the old Goodyear Eagle DOT drag radials (too bad they stopped making those) both in 275/60-15.

I'd usually do a quick spin in the water, pull out a few feet, tranny in low start the burnout, get to ~4500 and shift into 2nd, give it more throttle... watching the side mirror, I'd ease off the throttle when I saw the smoke start to get dense.

If the track isn't too busy, try a few practice launches before you stage. Don't go wild and piss off the starters, though! Start low, maybe 1200. If that hooks, try 1400,... different cars, different converters, different tunes... you just have to test to find what works best for you.

[78w72]

Great advice here & applies to my set up that also has traction/launch issues, engine is similar but less than the OPs car.

My setup is a 72 firebird, 467 stroker kit with stock unported 72cc E-heads, SD old faithful roller cam, Cliff built Q-jet & SD ported cast iron/HO intake. TH400, continental ~3200 converter, 3.23 gears. Has the same PTFB dropped front/rear springs & subframe connectors, using cheap summit 3 way drag shocks, no traction bars. Runs 11.3-11.4 at 119 with ease in any temps, best is 11.2s at 121-123mph.

I was very surprised & happy at the times & speed, expected mid to low 12's, but upset at the traction issues, I have to launch off idle too & it has some fuel starvation issues on good runs using a robbmc 1100 pump & 1/2" pickup. Those 2 things are holding it back but happy with the car since its more of a street/strip/light auto-x car.

I will 2nd or 3rd the wheel/tires, the 17" wheels are cool but heavy & hurt traction since theres much less sidewall, I bet just going to a 15" wheel/tire like some draglites makes a big difference in speed & launch. I have the older M/T drag radials but plan to go to the newer compound or the 275/60 Pro bracket radials that Ive read are the best radial tire option today. Also electric fuel pump to eliminate the starvation issues. With those issues fixed im hoping for a 10.9x or better.

With 340 heads, bigger cam & 1300 FI that car should easily be in the low 11s or high 10s & 120+ mph, like myself or many other street/strip cars, there is a lot more in it if it can be dialed in more.