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#21
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I personally don't use the install kits either because I like Timkin or BCA Bower and National Seals, plus I have enough shims and spare parts to put together a rear. I just figured since you are abroad it would be easier for you.
US Gear owns Richmond. US Gear gears are made in some other country I forget which (Not China) and Richmond are made in Italy.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#22
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Oké , thanks guys .
Lots of usefull info , appreciate it. |
#23
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Bob, I shipped my rear end in a container with other parts. Email the QP guys and ask for a quote, shipping to Holland is about the cheapest there is in Europe. I ordered mine with drum brakes.
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#24
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I've been looking into the Ford 9" and it's 30 pounds heavier than the 12 bolt.
Also they're less efficiente. Mmm . . . I'm prone to go for the 12 because of these reasons , combined with the originality and rarety. It's more work , I know but I think the result will be more appreciated when come time selling this bad boy. |
#25
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I would agree that for resale, the average or novice buyer is going to place a higher value on a GM 12 bolt vs a 9". Simply because they do not know any better and/or they think "modified and hacked up" if a 9" is sitting under a GM car.
If not drag racing, a 12 bolt will be perfectly fine. I went with the 9" to avoid needing c-clip eliminators on the 12 bolt. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight |
#26
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Control arm brackets.
Anybody know if there's someone out there who manufactures / fabricates The brackets that weld to the axle tubes for holding the bottom control arms ?
They're quite complex on my "70 GTO. For me to fabricate this is somewhat above my equipment level. I can make them , but not out of one piece . . . would be a lot nicer though. |
#27
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Currie used to make and sell a bunch of different housing brackets. That's where I used to buy them from. Been a long time though so not sure what (if any) they still make. Worth a look though.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#28
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Currie brackets are straight , the ones under my GTO have got a bend in them that's hard to replicate.
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#29
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Perhaps cut the brackets off a 10 bolt and weld them onto the 12 bolt? I'm not sure if that would work but the 10 bolts do pop up from time to time here..
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1968 - Pontiac GTO |
#30
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The brackets in the pictures are of the 10 bolt that came from under my car.
I was hoping not having to go there , just for the resale value. Ah well , I guess I'll probably end up doing just that. Thanks. |
#31
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I guess it depends on what you feel your 10 bolt might be worth..
Found this one nearby if you're looking for one to cut the brackets off https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2495948963068/ Its not mine by the way and i dont know the seller.
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1968 - Pontiac GTO |
#32
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Quote:
You can remove the old brackets and weld to the new rear, I've done that many times. It's just a little extra work, generally they just need to be opened up a bit to fit the larger axle tubes, not a big deal. As to the 12 bolt or 9 inch dilemma. It's a toss up in my eye's. Depends on what's available to me at the time. I go either way, as both can be built to hold the power in any street strip car and in the end you spend about the same amount of money. Nothing wrong with a 9 inch or even a dana 60 under a GM car. I will say the 9 inch is much more friendly to build. 10 bolt value doesn't even really figure in for me. Those 8.2's aren't worth anything to me. I'd much rather have a GTO with a 12 bolt or 9 inch in it. |
#33
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For parts availability your location is key to price and abbundance.
In my case building and maintaining this car overhere has been a expensive journey. Not to mention driving it with gas prices at $ 6.60 a gallon. I'm going to give fabricating the brackets a go , guess your never old enough to learn. |
#34
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Axle warping
I got a email about the fact that the axle tubes will warp when welding the brackets on.
Now I know about that , just not enough to judge if that's going to be a serious problem. I don't own welding tables or jigs , so I'm going to have to weld these brackets on without that. Is this entirely possible without ruining the axle ? |
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