[Dragncar]

What pan gaskets are you guys using ? I will have a aftermarket Steffs pan.
My friend has had great luck with no gasket, just silicone. I will be using The Right Stuff per Steffs instructions. I was thinking about no gasket and the cork gasket that goes over the rear main cap. I don't think the Steffs pan has the holes for the tabs at rear main anyway.

[charlie66]

Cork ..

[Formulajones]

I like the 1 piece from Butler. Very nice and leak free. I simply use a little "Right Stuff" in the corners.

[dataway]

Butler one piece here also, had it off and back on three times and still no leaks.

[70 bird]

Originally Posted by charlie66

Cork ..

X 2

[grivera]

BOP Engineering 1-piece gasket...same one sold by Butler made by BOP Engineering: https://www.bopengineering.com/beltd...c_topend.shtml

[mysticmissle]

the bop gasket is great on factory blocks and maybe MR1 they will not work on an IA2

[Formulajones]

They work on the MR1, that's what dad is running on his.

[Dragncar]

Does the BOP have the rear main tabs. My pan does not have the holes.(Steffs)

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by mysticmissle

the bop gasket is great on factory blocks and maybe MR1 they will not work on an IA2

Why not on the IA-II?

[Dragncar]

This is what I am dealing with. Thinking cork contact cemented to rear cap and The Right Stuff between it and pan.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Does the BOP have the rear main tabs. My pan does not have the holes.(Steffs)

Yes, 5 tabs so you cut off what you don't need. The section with tabs is rubber so I'd be concerned it would squish out using a pan without the corresponding holes. I read somewhere where someone cut that section completely off and just used the cork over the rear main with a pan like yours. Personally, I would just use the regular pan gasket at that point.

[73 TRANSAM]

IA2 block has a .125 lip for a registered fit main cap. So it will need a taller rear gasket or a custom(silicone) adjustment.

[mgarblik]

I am sure others will disagree, but I would not use Right Stuff by itself as an oil pan gasket on a fabricated pan. I am surprised Steff's would recommend Right Stuff as a gasket replacement. If you ever need to remove the pan, you will probably have to replace it. That stuff dries so hard, I don't know how you would separate it from the block without bending and damaging the pan. I guess an alternative might be to drill and tap the pan rail for 4 jack screws to push the pan off the block if you ever need to remove it. We used soft setting RTV, not right stuff by itself with all our fabricated pans. No leaks and no issues. Specifically, Valco brand. But 3M or Permatex is similar.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I am sure others will disagree, but I would not use Right Stuff by itself as an oil pan gasket on a fabricated pan. I am surprised Steff's would recommend Right Stuff as a gasket replacement. If you ever need to remove the pan, you will probably have to replace it. That stuff dries so hard, I don't know how you would separate it from the block without bending and damaging the pan. I guess an alternative might be to drill and tap the pan rail for 4 jack screws to push the pan off the block if you ever need to remove it. We used soft setting RTV, not right stuff by itself with all our fabricated pans. No leaks and no issues. Specifically, Valco brand. But 3M or Permatex is similar.

I think they recommend it because of the omitted bolt holes in the corners, they are just not there. I have some high end International brand grey silicone. Its pretty expensive. Been saving it for this project. I think I will use a regular cork gasket set with 3M between the gasket and block and a thin coat of that silicone between the gasket and pan. Do it that way so there is something to give in removal. The jack bolt is not a bad idea. I in no way want to hurt this pan. Expensive and long wait.

[mgarblik]

That is very possible. I didn't realize they eliminated corner bolt holes. The Moroso 2 piece pans we use have some side pan rail bolt holes eliminated but the 4 corner bolt holes are retained. Looks like they did compensate for that with the very thick and rigid pan rail pieces. They look 30-50% thicker than the Moroso pan rail pieces. Happy with the fit of the Moroso pan, however, no bashing.

[Dragncar]

Here are some pics. There is a thread on it in the race section but its more of a race pan. Big kickout and trap doors, fits in a stock frame though.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Nice looking pan. Are there bolts for the timing cover ???

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop

Nice looking pan. Are there bolts for the timing cover ???

The two bolts in the center are there, corner ones omitted. Not the best pics for the holes but if you look you can see them.
This pan actually gives you horsepower vs just having a aftermarket pan for oiling issues. It does both. 10-15 HP, maybe 20 on a big engine you spin high.
The kickout and scrapper with windage screen gets more oil off the crank vs a standard scrapper that scrapes the oil off the crank only to go down the side of the pan.
Canton makes one that does the same thing but its kinda ugly and they could not make me one due to Covid.

[mgarblik]

Looks like a nice pan. The area between the front most side bolt holes and the timing case 2 bolt holes is a long span as you mentioned. I don't see any issue in the back with the missing bolt holes. that front span is probably 8-9 inches? on each side.