[Tedd930]

Just looked at photos when i bought it .. it was the correct color

[bluejudge]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

If you only do 1 more thing to the whole car
- please correct that engine color , as you mention.

Today's 93 octane is equivalent to yesterdays 100 octane (1966)
But needs a lead substitute additive.

Rally 1 wheels for the win !

I am just curious about the gas comment today’s gas is yesterday’s 100 octane. A lot of people say today’s gas is junk. Every once in a while I put Sunoco race gas in. I wish I can do that all the time as it has lead, and it smells better. LOL Sunoco 94 is coming back around here in NJ, I have to see how much that is. Thanks, Marc.

[bdk1976]

Awesome car. Do you know when the hood tach was added?

[242177P]

Originally Posted by bluejudge

I am just curious about the gas comment today’s gas is yesterday’s 100 octane.

Older ratings were research. Modern is R+M/2.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

All the GTO's with "rated 10.75" compression ratio specified 100 octane minimum ..
By the old octane rating method.

Today's 93 is equivalent to that.
Google will probably have a comparison factored between now and then.

Alcohol mixtures of today aren't doing us any favors though

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by Tedd930

Just looked at photos when i bought it .. it was the correct color

And just like mine, no bolts on the ends of the exhaust manifolds from the factory. '65 and '66 only. Mine's never repainted.

Too late now, but 20 years is not a long time to sit to need a rebuild unless stored improperly. Mine sat for 41 years and fired right up. But is smokes, so stuck rings or needs new ones. Mine has 30,000 more miles than yours, though, engine/trans never out, original clutch, etc.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

All the GTO's with "rated 10.75" compression ratio specified 100 octane minimum ..
By the old octane rating method.

Today's 93 is equivalent to that.
Google will probably have a comparison factored between now and then.

Alcohol mixtures of today aren't doing us any favors though

I respectfully disagree. At least with our California formulas. We have only 91 gasahol, and it is nowhere near adequate for a stock pre-'71 GTO engine. The last stuff we had that mine would run on and not complain much was the 94 octane low lead in the early '80's.

[bluejudge]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

All the GTO's with "rated 10.75" compression ratio specified 100 octane minimum ..
By the old octane rating method.

Today's 93 is equivalent to that.
Google will probably have a comparison factored between now and then.

Alcohol mixtures of today aren't doing us any favors though

Ok so if the new rating of 93 equals the old rating of 100 then I guess today’s gas is decent for the octane, it’s just missing the lead. Thanks, good to know. Thanks, Marc.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by bluejudge

Ok so if the new rating of 93 equals the old rating of 100 then I guess today’s gas is decent for the octane, it’s just missing the lead. Thanks, good to know. Thanks, Marc.

Good luck with that.

[Greg Reid]

Some years back I had a '69 LeSabre convert with a 350. On regular fuel I think it would literally have dieseled with the switch off until it ran out of gas or I choked the carb out. I let it run like that just to see once.and had to choke it out....It was funny because it blew great smoke rings from both tailpipes...lol
It ran great on premium unleaded though, at least here in Georgia on our blend.
By the way, I have an unmodified '66 WT 389 that I plan to use as-is also, so I'm expecting the same challenges.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

*not for use in California
lol

93 works fine in NC
Octane points matter . 91 is not 93

93 new = 98+ old
91 new = 95 old

European nations still use the old octane method if anyone needs to do a google compare

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

*not for use in California
lol

93 works fine in NC
Octane points matter . 91 is not 93

93 new = 98+ old
91 new = 95 old

European nations still use the old octane method if anyone needs to do a google compare

I've also noticed that in humid areas like NC, these engines seem to do better than in arid areas like mine. Also, when out of state this past summer, my '67 sure liked the pure gas I was able to get without ethanol. No issues, even at high elevations of over 8000 feet.

[Tedd930]

Well in another 3 weeks my all original survivor I pulled from the original owners garage will be on the road again after 20 yrs.. however my deal now went south !! To recap as previously discussed the car was untouched even the paint and top ! The engine big block 3-2 car had been sitting, compression was a bit low on 2 cylinders car has 78,000 miles on it so I suggested valve job mechanic agreed but made the point heads are off might as well do the rest of engine just in case … so here we are and by the way great guy and very well versed in the Gto field
Engine rebuild all new internal parts.
And machine work. $7200.
Sent carbs to American carb amazing job $900
New shocks , alt , belts, water pump bushing springs lines cylinders hoses gaskets exhaust brake drums brake shoes new clutch bearings fuel tank, fule lines … parts a/c delco correct about $7000 .. plus about 100 hrs labor @ $150 per .. bottom line my $40,000 dollar home run is now about $65 to 66k so needless to say all the fun is gone and I am official depressed for now! Who would have known … my thoughts when I purchased the car $15,000 was the number to get her going! Not sure what big block 4 speed original convertables are selling for but I can’t be
Much more than 65k.. so I’ll have to enjoy it a bit
And see what happens. And I did take everyone’s advice and are only cleaning engine bay and undercarriage no restoration work except replacing the worn driving and safety items above . Pics attached of original undercarriage he wants to clean this up a bit and I told him leave it
Is this the correct move or should we pressure wash and lightly dust and coat of black semi ?

[Scarebird]

Leave it, no paint.

[OG68]

X2. Looks good as is

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

You "might" could have came out for around 10k if you did all the labor yourself and sourced all the parts yourself .Except for the machine shop work on the engine.

If you want to sell at a profit at this point - I think you would need to install Rally One rims , professional cleaning and detail of the interior , and dry-ice blast the underside and engine bay thoroughly.

Don't do the dry ice blast unless/until you are ready to sell.
We have seen some time capsules go through this process and return some pretty incredible purchase prices.

Pressure wash and black out is not beneficial to survivor status.
The wheels on the car are doing it no favors.
None of the wheel covers in 66 have the right look or amount of class - for a classy GTO.

A place like Level One restorations in Colorado -for example- who specialize in preservation rejuvenations could make the whole car sparkle and put it at its highest caliber top to bottom.
And create a national caliber survivor award winner.

[bill ryder]

Sure hope you kept all the old parts: belt, alternator, water pump, etc.!!!!!!!! almost anything that was replaced with new!!!

"Bill"!

[b-man]

Honestly I wouldn’t have jumped straight into an engine rebuild.

Replacing the timing chain set and water pump would have been as deep as I would have gone, along with rebuilding the carburetors and fuel pump. Fuel tanks can be cleaned and if necessary replaced.

I would have put some miles on that 389 before considering a rebuild, those cylinders with lower compression readings may have sealed up satisfactorily once things loosened up and had a chance to see some clean oil and some heat cycles. If they were drastically low I can see rebuilding, but again exactly what numbers were you seeing and was the engine given a chance to warm up and get a true realistic reading or not?

Replacing all the rubber brake hoses, master and wheel cylinders, shoes and springs isn’t expensive.

However if you’re not doing any labor yourself the cost of repairs becomes extremely expensive.

These cars can be enjoyed relatively inexpensively if you’re willing or able to do the majority of the labor yourself, otherwise they can quickly become a money pit.

If you were looking to profit then doing a nice detail on the car with the least amount of money invested in repairs is the way. For myself I’d be happy with finding such a nice car and just enjoy it.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Yes
Brake drums and alternators have date codes - if they were originals by part number and date code - you would NOT want to lose them.

Belts hoses are available with proper markings from reproduction websites like Ames.
Also date coded Packard spark plug wires
And correct hose clamps.
All these types of replacements are acceptable

[gtospieg]

Sweet car, but if you do try to sell it.... Don't mention the "Big Block".