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#81
12-13-2016, 02:35 PM
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Thanks guys!
Getting the missing parts from good sources that do great work is fun too... Got a lead from James on this evap on eBay. Factory auto air knocked it out of park! 
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Mike/Illinois |
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#82
12-13-2016, 04:24 PM
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[QUOTE=Judge273;5668527]Thanks guys!
Getting the missing parts from good sources that do great work is fun too... Got a lead from James on this evap on eBay. Factory auto air knocked it out of park! Jewelry |
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#83
12-13-2016, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
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#84
12-13-2016, 07:24 PM
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Set it up poa valve for 134A too.
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Mike/Illinois |
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#85
12-13-2016, 07:27 PM
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Very nice: it has the original expansion valve with the short capillary tubes instead of the coiled up, one-size-fits all replacement part.
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#86
12-13-2016, 07:35 PM
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More pix..
  Should keep the girl cool in summer!
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Mike/Illinois |
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#87
12-13-2016, 07:47 PM
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A happy wife is a happy life
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#88
12-13-2016, 07:49 PM
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So, who can give me some assembly tips?
1. After the body gets painted...should I put stripes on? 2. Put rear and sub on with body shop so they can align panels. 3. Take body home and do the assembly? Rear, sub, drop in drivetrain? Anyone with advice, it is much appreciated!
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Mike/Illinois |
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#89
12-13-2016, 08:32 PM
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Dang Mike! You're really going to town on this car. I think you are going to be driving it by spring at this pace. Looking great too, especially the AC box assembly. I need to get my AC on the Bird going this year as well.
If you need any parts, check with woogie0004 in the Parts For Sale section (I think you bought some seat belts from him recently) as he has almost everything for the second gens. Merry Christmas! Dennis |
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#90
12-13-2016, 08:37 PM
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Thanks Dennis,
I did buy a full set of seat belts from Adam, and a dryer with hose too. Thanks for the support on this project. But, I'm a bit over my head. Spending a hour a day towards the cause. Learning it from this board.
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Mike/Illinois |
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#91
12-13-2016, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
I've put in the drivetrain after the car has been painted and the front clip on for a non ac car. For a ac car if you could got the car painted with the front end off and then put you drivetrain in and take it back to get the clip bolted on. Makes life easier. |
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#92
12-13-2016, 10:16 PM
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The right sequence matters
Most body/painters like to mock fit everything prior to paint so they can see the fit. determine how many shims, etc. He will need the subframe and all sheetmetal, spoilers, etc to make sure they fit right prior to paint. he may want to add or take away on some of the skim coats to eliminate or make the gaps even.
You don't wont to find out it doesn't fit well and needs more work after its painted.
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Ol' man Smith Pigeon Forge, Tn. Grand Rod Run Spring 2012 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUIuGvWWthA http://s223.photobucket.com/user/fas...d%20Run%202012 Son video'd this... http://s223.photobucket.com/user/fas...a.mp4.html?o=0 |
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#93
12-14-2016, 06:54 AM
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Now, what if they dry fit the body, bumper, trunk lid, spoilers, doors.and get it all painted.
I take it back to hang firewall stuff, install subframe, rear and bring back for front end alignment of shim, washers, fitment? Kinda of like Chuck said.. Would that work or create more potential work? Just not sure what would need to be adjusted past doors? Just a thought?
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Mike/Illinois Last edited by Judge273; 12-14-2016 at 07:15 AM. |
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#94
12-14-2016, 07:43 AM
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I would ask the body guy how he wants to do it. He is the guy who's doing it, right ?
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#95
12-14-2016, 09:15 AM
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He said he's flexible. That's why I'm asking the question here.
Like to get thoughts and make an educated decision. Is it the fender/door gap that is the big concern? Not sure where else the shims and washers come into play.
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Mike/Illinois |
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#96
12-14-2016, 09:24 AM
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I would hope that the guy doing it would be the most. "educated " in the work that he is doing. But what do I know
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#97
12-14-2016, 09:40 AM
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I'll defer back to him as I'm flexible.
Never did a fbody before and many here have. Looked at keepat thread and looks Ike he had the subframe on and off many times...trying to min the process.
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Mike/Illinois |
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#98
12-14-2016, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
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#99
12-14-2016, 11:13 AM
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Sounds like good advice too and will save the back n forth too. I'll get them the subframe and rear. Let them attach.
Then, the engine drivetrain with firewall stuff will follow before final panel and hood reattaching. Car will comeback all intact ready for interior install. Best plan of attack.
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Mike/Illinois |
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#100
12-14-2016, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Talk to your body man, he's not a novice. You're paying him, let him know your concerns. You and him can get a game plan. I'm probably out of sync with how you are doing this. There's many ways to get there. I'm sure he has his. I had assumed you took the whole car to the body/painter to have him finish up on all the finer points of prepping this car for paint. That way he fits everything so he knows its right prior to paint. After that, the sub can be removed to strip down, clean and paint, assemble new suspension parts, steering,etc. After paint (I'm skipping some steps here) the body and all sheetmetal will get wet sanded and buffed prior to assembly. Install engine harness and other associated hardware onto the firewall. When all is ready to assemble install engine & trans on the completed ready to install subframe and mate with the body as one unit. So much easier. Tip: Be sure to bring the hood hinges you intend to use. No two sets of hinges operate exactly the same. I strongly recommend you source a good pair if yours are excessively worn. I've dealt with that. Also take care of any weak or broken rear deck lid springs prior to paint. You don't wont to mess with that after its all pretty and shiny. Do you or the body man have experience with installing these type of stripes and decals???? It's important!
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Ol' man Smith Pigeon Forge, Tn. Grand Rod Run Spring 2012 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUIuGvWWthA http://s223.photobucket.com/user/fas...d%20Run%202012 Son video'd this... http://s223.photobucket.com/user/fas...a.mp4.html?o=0 |
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