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#21
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Thanks! Could I just cut out the damage section under the vinyl and repair that part only so the original paint is not disturbed? Looks like the window needs to cone out to be done correctly, and for the vinyl to be replaced around there? At the factory, the vinyl got done before the window was set in? It looks to have been tucked in tight around the window.
Last edited by elefantrider; 01-26-2020 at 08:05 AM. |
#22
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Best to figure on removing the back window and replacing the entire panel. Also , when re installing the window, use butyl tape. I have had my back window out 3 times now , because the Urethane keeps pulling loose from the glass. The " New " glass guy I have said that the fit of the window to the body is not a uniform fit and that is what is causing it. Rust is always worse than it looks. Trust me .Plan on replacing the entire panel. I doubt the vinyl top was installed under the window/seal |
#23
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Agree. Rust is usually worse than it appears. But only on this car, only the area under the lower window vinyl is crusty. That area and the trunk pan.
The window trim is missing. Is that still available? It looks like there is a rusted bracket under the hole. Is that supporting the windshield? I was hoping an epoxy or lead job can fill it up but I don't think so. Last edited by elefantrider; 01-26-2020 at 03:00 PM. |
#24
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#25
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#26
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I hope the gas tank mounts are still solid. I guess i won’t know until I drip the tank to inspect it.
Do they also rust and get weak if the pan is rusted through in spots? |
#27
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Who makes the best repair panels or are they all the same?
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#28
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Interesting Freudian slip
__________________
My Pontiac is a '57 GMC with its original 347" Pontiac V8 and dual-range Hydra-Matic. |
#29
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I didn't drop or drip the tank, just siphoned out as much as I could and poured fresh gas in.
The kerosene smell is still there but I suppose it will eventually dissipate. What about the quality of the pans or are they all the same. |
#30
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What can one expect to pay a body shop to weld in a new trunk floor if I provide the panels?
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#31
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What can one expect to pay a body shop to repair this channel with new metal? I have got a range between $700-$1000. That includes R&R the window. |
#32
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Window Channel
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to kencar62 For This Useful Post: | ||
#33
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How about a monkey wrench in the mix. My floor was almost identical to yours. Maybe a bit more rust through on the left.
I have the 3 panel repair for it. However, I do not do that work myself. Decided to go with fiberglass. Used acid to kill the rust. Primed it in DP40. Fiberglassed the whole trunk floor. Put tape on the gaping holes to prevent run through. Think I used double fabric thickness In separate applications. I am very pleased with the way it came out. Once I re prime it and spatter coat it it will look as new. I can post a pic if you like. |
#34
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Yes, would be interested to see a pic please. I am thinking fiberglass also but my bodyman says it will not last.
My concern is if I put something heavy in the trunk, will it hold? Once the mat is on, you do not even see it. |
#35
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Here is a link to my trunk repair and rear window surrounds. What a mess that is. It is difficult to see the repair on the trunk because the
fiberglass is translucent. I can assure you though it is very strong. Fiberglass is very nice stuff to work with once you have had a few tries. I use it to repair all sorts of things. The silver showing through is aluminum tape placed over the larger holes to prevent run through of the resin and glass Anyone who thinks it will not last are simply wrong. Even if the floor continues to rust away, you essentially have a one piece mold of fiberglass trunk pan that is not going anywhere. With two plies of glass it is very strong. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3nw6QsuyZWvJNahQ8 |
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