[ITSBACK]

How do you get a torque wrench and sockets into the manifold to torque bolts? Torque wrench does not fit into most bolts. Is a 3/8 drive torque wrench better?
Thank you.

[Mike Davis]

I have never torqued an intake. I just use a boxed in wrench and get it tight starting from the center bolts and work outward. I guess if you want to torque them a small 3/8 TW would be better.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

I have never torqued an intake. I just use a boxed in wrench and get it tight starting from the center bolts and work outward. I guess if you want to torque them a small 3/8 TW would be better.

Same here. For the past 40 years on countless cars. No issues.

[PAUL K]

You might find the factory torque spec is a little much with an aluminum manifold. Use a wrench and if your concerned go a little tighter by doubling up two wrenches.

[61-63]

At some point I may have put a torque wrench on one or two of the bolts I could get one on and then just went by feel to try apply the same torque to the rest but normally I just tighten them up to where I feel they are tight. Same thing with the timing chain cover, oil pan, valley cover, valve covers, carburetor(s), etc. Ditto what Paul K. says re factory chassis book cast iron torque #s on anything aluminum.

[ITSBACK]

Well my issue is the crossover keeps leaking the minute I fill it. This last time it leaked slowly from one side and it slowed a lot when I went tighter on the bolts but never stopped 100%. So it’s round three on this thing.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by ITSBACK

Well my issue is the crossover keeps leaking the minute I fill it. This last time it leaked slowly from one side and it slowed a lot when I went tighter on the bolts but never stopped 100%. So it’s round three on this thing.

Something else is wrong.... Manifold warped, valley pan interfering with the manifold, manifold gasket surface not machined at the correct angle....just a few things to start checking.

[ITSBACK]

Well I don’t think the valley pan is an issue, I had notched it for the tripower I had on it before but I will check before I take it off to be sure. As far as warping and the angle I’ll check too without gaskets to see how it sits.

[Schurkey]

Consider socket-head cap screws, and a LONG Allen wrench cut and stuck into an Allen-bit socket. Sometimes a person needs extra length, sometimes you need a very short length to access the socket-head wrenching surface. A byproduct of this is that folks are unlikely to steal the manifold because they won't have the right length Allen wrenches. Same deal with female Torx-head bolts.

I got my ass torn-off at work for not using a torque wrench when assembling various components onto Detroit 6V-92 engines. Work stopped in the whole building as everyone listened to me getting yelled-at by the Second In Command. Had an effect; now I torque-wrench everything I can get access for the torque-wrench (and a torque spec). But sometimes, there's just "no way" to do it.

[NeighborsComplaint]

I've never used a torque wrench on an intake. You're torqueing to about 15 ft-lbs which is no more than a firm tug on a box end wrench. If it leaks, you have alignment issues.


You can get a set of these "crowsfoot" adaptors to use with the torque wrench just about anywhere if you insist on using a torque wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/RamPro-Drive-...767901&sr=8-96

[lust4speed]

Both my '67 service manual and the Wallace site says 40 foot pounds for the intake manifold. I simply go as tight as I can with standard length 9/16" combination wrench.

First thing to check is to eyeball the fit of the manifold from the front of the engine and insure that the manifold is sitting equal on both sides and the gap for the gaskets is equal down the front of the intake and heads. If you see a larger gap at the top or bottom then it is cocked and will leak. Next you want to start on the center bolts of the manifold and go side to side in an outward spiral pattern tightening them about 10 foot pounds each round.

Sure doesn't hurt to cheat a little and use Ultra Grey or another sealer of your choice on the gaskets at the coolant crossover.

[steve25]

I like in post # 10 here have never used a Torque wrench on Intake Manifold bolts either, nor water pump bolts, oil pan bolts, or anything other then rocker arm stud nuts , Balancer bolts, Rod bolts and main cap bolts.
Never had any leaks other then the front Manifold Flat O ring and never any snapped bolts or studs.

[steve25]

Please note that I am not putting anyone down here as it's great to be detailed and focused about your build , but just trust yourself and take your time.
Never do anything in a rush on your motor even if you have done that same work 70 times over in the passed!

[455rebel]

I've had heads to seep even after engine was warmed up. I used a product called K-W block seal, kinda a long process of fill and flush several times to get it all out, but it's worked. Follow instructions on can, no shortcuts, gotta let it set, I believe 24 hours.
As far as tq, I also am guilty of main, rod, and head only.

[Sirrotica]

Disclaimer, after pulling wrenches for close to 50 years I only use a torque wrench for bottom end, and head assembly. I also use one for torquing wheels, because over tightening wheels on modern cars (impact wrench) will warp rotors, and drums.

Now, I had never ran into someone that absolutely should use a torque wrench on all fasteners until I had a neighbor that moved in about 7 years ago. He owns his own lawncare service and works on his own equipment. He over tightens everything, and of course breaks bolts off regularly. There are people that should torque everything, he's one of the exceptions to the rule that you really don't need to use a torque wrench on every fastener you touch.

I have asked him before why he seems to over tighten everything, he responded that he doesn't want stuff to loosen, and fall off. I chalk it up to an irrational fear, even when I asked him did he ever have a wheel loosen and fall off or something traumatic, the answer was no, I just don't want anything to loosen up and fall off..............

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Here's a crossover that was off a bunch. Above the bolt holes touched and left a good gap below the water passage. Big aluminum file and framing square it only took a minute to get a perfect fit.

Wont be that easy with your's attached. But you can sure see what's going on with a big square.



And of course just a dry fit would show you the same thing if that's what's holding it up.

Clay

[ITSBACK]

Thanks for all the input guys, I’ll follow up!!
Happy and safe New Year!!!

[steve25]

Happy new year to all!

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by ITSBACK

Well my issue is the crossover keeps leaking the minute I fill it. This last time it leaked slowly from one side and it slowed a lot when I went tighter on the bolts but never stopped 100%. So it’s round three on this thing.

I have had them leak a bit with silicone that I did not let set up overnight. Changed the gasket and simply used some non hardening Permatex #2 around the water passage , fixed. Bolted on and filled up right away with no leaks. This was at the track making a manifold change so it had to work right away.

I use a little bit of the Permatex Aviation stuff around the intake ports, thin layer. It does not harden either so everything comes off. I use it on the screw in plugs for the lifter galley also.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by 455rebel

I've had heads to seep even after engine was warmed up. I used a product called K-W block seal, kinda a long process of fill and flush several times to get it all out, but it's worked. Follow instructions on can, no shortcuts, gotta let it set, I believe 24 hours.
As far as tq, I also am guilty of main, rod, and head only.

I have seen and have personally used K-W block seal about 7 or 8 times in the past 40 years. In each and every case, it was a permanent fix....my buddy's cracked cylinder head in his Toyota pickup went another 200+k miles, a co-workers honda with a blown head gasket and cracked block lasted him years until he wrecked it, a Ford I worked on that leaked out of every core plug was fixed for the rest of its life, and on and on. K-W's 'Trans -X' is another 'snake oil' product that actually delivers.
Brad, I hear you on the over tightening.....I had a room mate 30 years ago who was an excellent mechanic....his specialty was VW and Porsche. He used to over-tighten every nut and bolt.....as a result, he was a master at broken bolt extraction, case-saver inserts, easy-outs, and draw-filing warped aluminum surfaces true again. Working on a vehicle he had worked on, you KNEW he had been there, as even the little 10mm bolts were torqued to a point where they stretched!! They would 'click' when they broke loose if they didn't snap.