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#1
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Main bearing caps needed for cylinder hone?
I’m rebuilding the engine in my ‘62 Mercury as my winter project. On inspection the engine is in surprisingly great shape. It was bored .030 over when my grandfather rebuilt it back in 1980. Machine shop verified that it only needs a hone done to the cylinders. Great.
I didn’t bother bringing the caps with because I didn’t think they were needed to just hone, so I dropped them off today. Just curious why the caps are needed? Thanks! PS. Yeah, it’s not a Pontiac, but posting on the Ford forums is useless, it’s a vast wasteland!
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. Last edited by 67drake; 01-10-2020 at 08:05 PM. |
#2
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The more that you can do to stress the block in the manor that it is stressed when bolted together, the more accurate the bores.
Just a thou or two makes for better ring sealing and that makes for mo horsepressure. Some people even believe in heating up the block to simulate expansion. Imagine honing the big end of a rod. As you torque them, they move. If you want the big end round, the bolts had better be tight.
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"At no time did we exceed 175 mph.” Dan Gurney's truthful response to his and Brock Yate's winning of the first ever Cannonball Baker Sea-to-Shining Sea... Still have my 1st Firebird 7th Firebird 57 Starchief |
#3
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Depending on the type of honing machine your shop uses they may need the main caps to hold the block in position while they do the actual honing. I believe some machines use a bar that goes through the mains to hold it down
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The Following User Says Thank You to 70gtojosh For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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THIS ^^^^. The shop i used is still able to jerk each bore offline for best match to the sonogram
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#5
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Quote:
If the cylinders are in such great shape, a dingleberry-brush "hone" should be good enough. They would not need the main caps for that. If the thing is getting a rigid hone, they must be trying to correct...something. Beware of excess piston-to-bore clearance. Any chance they're using a torque plate? What engine is this? |
#6
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Quote:
I didn’t ask what type of hone. I assumed just a ball hone to put a crosshatch on it. They said nothing about having to correct anything. But with that type of hone I wouldn’t think main caps would be needed as a ball hone would just follow the shape of the cylinders. Guess I’ll be giving them a call Monday to get more info about it! Maybe just for mounting in the machine as mentioned above.
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. Last edited by 67drake; 01-11-2020 at 03:57 PM. |
#7
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You can't put an accurate cross-hatch pattern in a bore with a dingle-ball hone. May not matter depending on type of rings used, but crosshatch pattern is important for best ring seal and a rigid hone is the only way I know of to get it done. Problem is it usually makes the cylinders a thou or two bigger which can be a problem for piston fitment.
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---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
#8
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A proper grit ball hone will not remove even .001" of Bore material if your using it right.
If 6 passes up and down a Bore with a ball hone can it get atleast the ring riding area of a bore to show decent crosshatch then you just plain need to overbore and hone the block again, or live with it!
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#9
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Quote:
What rings would you recommend to work best with a ball honed cylinder?
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---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
#10
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Quote:
Far as I'm concerned, it's not worth building if you're not using some sort of moly-faced ring package. I've got a few dingleberry brushes; most of them inherited from folks who "got out" of the business, or quit doing hobby-work. The only one I've bought new was 320 grit. 240 is probably more common, and I'm told it's still suitable for Moly-faced rings. I've taken David Vizard's advice, so I scrub a green Scotchbrite pad up and down the cylinder after honing. This supposedly reduces friction, and removes the last traces of torn metal from the boring/honing process. |
#11
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The shop said they use a Sunnen SV10 hone machine. They need the caps to hold the block in place. They also mentioned it would be hit with a plateau brush after honing.
They said it would be honed to run Moly rings.
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
#12
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Sounds like your in good hands... curious what series/displacement Ford engine it is?
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#13
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‘62 260 V8
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71' GTO -original 400/4-speed/3.23 posi 13.95 @ 102.1 on street tires @ 4055lbs. ‘63 LeMans- ‘69 400 w/ original transaxle. 2.69 gears. |
#14
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Quote:
Are they using a torque plate? That'll either be the Dingleberry brush we've been discussing, or one of the newer abrasive nylon brushes. |
#15
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you need the caps on to mount the block in the cylinder hone. The hold down bar goes through the main housing bore. Without caps, there is nothing to hold the block in place.
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Paul Carter Carter Cryogenics www.cartercryo.com 520-409-7236 Koerner Racing Engines You killed it, We build it! 520-294-5758 64 GTO, under re-construction, 412 CID, also under construction. 87 S-10 Pickup, 321,000 miles 99Monte Carlo, 293,000 miles 86 Bronco, 218,000 miles |
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