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Old 06-29-2005, 07:16 PM
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ok ive been working on my engine lately and now that its back together it does not start, i tried connecting the positive wire directly to the solenoid it does not crank, this means its dead right?
I think it should be good though before i messed with my engine it would turn on fine and now theres no crank, is there anything else i can do to test the starter/solenoid?

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Old 06-29-2005, 07:26 PM
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I assume you have the starter bolted to the engine. In order to test the starter, you need to connect the large battery cable to the large bolt on the starter. Then you need to jump from the cable to the small "s" terminal on the solenoid. the solenoid should pull in and the starter should crank.

george

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Old 06-29-2005, 07:34 PM
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if it results with nothing does that mean i need a new one?

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62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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Old 06-29-2005, 08:43 PM
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ok, the starter works. The thing about it is that it only works when the switch for the electric fans is on "ON", when its on "ON" i would tap the battery cable to the "S" terminal and the starter tries to start, so what in the damn world did i do wrong? I used relays and i used diagrams provided from the manufacturer, so im not so sure what i did wrong. Anybody have a clue?

One thing to keep in mind is that i connected the positive wire of the fans to a Relay in the front and when i disconnect it and try to make the starter turn on it wont it just makes a sound in the realy whats this?

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463 Stroker Kit.
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62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
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Old 06-30-2005, 07:12 PM
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anyone know?

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62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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Old 07-01-2005, 10:36 AM
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anyone, come on im gonna cry if i cant get this together.

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463 Stroker Kit.
ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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Old 07-01-2005, 11:23 AM
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I don't know what you did wrong, but with the large bat cable connected to the starter mounted on the engine, jumping the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid to the battery or battery cable should make the starter work and crank the engine. Doesn't matter what else you did with the wiring; the above procedure bypasses everything and will crank the engine if the starter is good.

If that works, and normal cranking procedure from the ignition key does not, you need to fix your wiring. The fan switch thing is just wrong if it's interfering with cranking...

George

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Old 07-01-2005, 01:00 PM
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well thats my problem i put the cable directly to the starter solenoid and it does nothing. it just makes a sound in the relay, but when i connect the relays wiring and turn the fans on it cranks.

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ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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Old 07-01-2005, 01:11 PM
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Makes a sound in which relay?

If it cranks when you connect your "relays" then it MUST crank if you follow my simple procedure, above.

Since the starter doesn't crank for you, I don't think you are following the stated procedure correctly.

george

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Old 07-01-2005, 02:09 PM
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dang george i am doing exactly what you say and its tripping me out. This is what i am doing. I get the battery cable and i directly connect it to the "S" on the solenoid and it still make a F%#$&# crank on one of the relays. by jumo you do mean put the battery cable to the "S" right.???

but then i put my switch on "ON" and it freakin cranks, why the hell does the relay make a sound if there is nothing connected to the battery?
The battery is mounted in the trunk, but i doubt that matters because all im trying to do is crank the solenoid.

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62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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Old 07-01-2005, 02:28 PM
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No, you silly guy, Let's go over it again: I assume the starter is mounted to the engine and you have a large cable from the engine block back to the battery negative.

Connect the large bat cable to the large bolt on the starter solenoid. There is also a small screw terminal on the solenoid that should be marked "S". Your solenoid may also have a second small screw terminal marked "R" or "I". Ignore the second one.

Now take a JUMPER wire and connect the big bat cable momentarily to the solenoid "S" terminal. If the starter is good, the starter MUST crank. Everything else in the car is ignored.

Once you have verified that we'll check the rest.

Per your other posting, are you sure you are connecting fan power to the horn relay? What kind of car?

George

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Old 07-01-2005, 03:45 PM
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Yea its a 67 firebird, this isnt a picture of mine but its an exact representation of what i believe a horn relays is,haha thats where i have it connected.

ok, George u saved me lots of money with this one, but let me tell you what i got a 4 awg cable and connected it from the block to the subframe and it crank, it wanted to turn on , but it wont because i need a new coil, anyways i think the problem was simply that there wasnt suffecient enough ground, maybe????? Is it bad to do what i did, the ground cable got pretty hot after a while of cranking. should i get a 0 awg cable for that?

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463 Stroker Kit.
ross pistons. h beam rods. eagle crank.
62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
  #13  
Old 07-01-2005, 04:28 PM
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The larger the cable, the less hot it will get during cranking, also it will crank better with larger cables, especially if you have the battery in the trunk.

George

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Old 07-01-2005, 05:50 PM
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yea i seen some of those articles about less resistance in the bigger cable's, i took a year of Physics and i learned some of that stuff,

yea well the engine wont turn on because the coil connection broke off so it that could be a reason why it doesnt run right?

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62 heads 72cc, port matched
Performer RPM-850DP
Auburn- 3.55 gear
CC HR custom grind
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