[goatless]

Just came across this at Road&Track, of all places. Complete rebuild, including machining, of a 389 Tri-Power in a 10 minute time lapse video.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...x_XfPSOhjnjnmM

[JMB36TA]

I just watched this video. I got it in my email from Hagerty. It's awesome! Something about the plug wiring looked off so I read the article, the cam has a 4 7 swap.
https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...12_HagertyNews

[pontiacmark]

I saw this through Hagerty also. Looks like the same work my original engine needs. Wish mine could get done that fast.

[eaglesan13]

Pretty cool.

[SRR]

That was really cool! I'll never understand not using forged rods though.

[Lightfoot]

OK, I clicked on the link and saw the article but all it had on there was a siezure inducing GIF and an option to watch a carb rebuild.

wtf do you click on to watch the engine rebuild?

[Stuart]

Here's the link to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpEz...&frags=pl%2Cwn

[OCMDGTO]

Great video!

[Mr_GTO]

That was very neat. They have done a bunch of engines that way in the video's. Cool stuff.

[JC455]

That was awesome!

[form74]

Nice, to bad we can't actually get our motor work done that fast.

[dataway]

What kind of lube where they using on the Hemi rebuild? The white stuff, and lots of it.

Not to take away from the Poncho engine, but jeez, those hemi's look well built.

[unruhjonny]

that was a well done video...

my only "huh!?" moments were:
1) dished pistons
2) factory look with all new (read: not factory looking) hardware.
3) the intake to timing housing bolt has no funny washer... just the bolt!?
4) aftermarket distributor.

[ftwmlp]

Originally Posted by unruhjonny

that was a well done video...

my only "huh!?" moments were:
1) dished pistons
2) factory look with all new (read: not factory looking) hardware.
3) the intake to timing housing bolt has no funny washer... just the bolt!?
4) aftermarket distributor.

I watched that video on the Hagerty site as well. I was curious about the water pump impeller used? Not something I have seen before.

Also curious about the 4 7 swap, is that legit?

[bluejudge]

They made that look nice and easy, and super quick.

[Greg Reid]

I actually wish they'd done it in 20 minutes. Some things that I was interested in were too fast to see. Cool video though. I too was wondering about the wp impeller. Never seen one like that.

[unruhjonny]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

.... I too was wondering about the wp impeller. Never seen one like that.

I have seen them in Smoke signals and Hemmings Muscle Machines - they're done by a company which makes better flowing waterpumps.

[poncho-mike]

I have a couple of comments.

I do my run-ins with a points distributor. I found I can get my timing pretty close by using a electrical meter to determine when the points break. I started with a points distributor in a running engine with timing set at 8 degrees before TDC. I then used the electrical meter to see when the points opened and closed relative to the crank TDC. When I'm building a different motor, I use the same distributor and set the balancer timing mark at the setting where the points broke in the engine set at 8 degrees before TDC. I then rotate the distributor backwards until I see the points change state. This method has allowed me to start up the engine quickly without playing with the distributor guessing at the setting.

I also don't use all of the white stuff, in fact I'm not sure why he used it. I pour about four quarts of oil onto the lifter galley, but I also pour one quart each on top of the rocker arms on the cylinder heads. I think he used a oil primer rod. With all of that white stuff on the bearings, I'm not sure how much oil is getting circulated in the bearings. I don't use any bearing lube, I think pressurizing the system prior to firing up is more than adequate. I also turn the engine while running the oil priming rod and watch for oil to come out of the pushrods on the heads.

I coat the bottoms of the lifters with black stuff (which I think is mostly graphite) I get from either Crane or Comp Cams. I also add a break in additive to the oil.

I also didn't quite understand his break-in procedure. As soon as the engine fires, I take it up to around 1800 - 2200 RPM and let it cycle between those ranges for thirty minutes. I then immediately shut down and change the oil. I then do a second thirty minute run with a fresh oil filter and oil. After that, I will let it idle. I have a timing gun with advance knob, and I use that to set total advance while running at 2000 RPM. I'm not sure of the exact number off the top of my head but I have it all written down.

I haven't built an engine in probably ten to fifteen years, so I imaging some things have changed. I'd like to hear comments on how some of you other guys do it.

I also built an engine stand using a Firebird sub-frame. I left the core support in place and added a small gas tank with a pusher fuel pump, A metal strap holds it upright for the run-in. I put a manual trans flywheel on a TH350, use a set of Hooker headers with glasspacks, and a gauge setup out of a Trans Am.

Mike

[jwcfbd]

very cool

[Jeff Hamlin]

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com...olt-water-pump