[lorans65]

I am having a problem trying to figure out my dash lights. Replaced headlight switch checked and cleaned all ground connections. Removed fuse block and cleaned all terminals that hold the fuses also cleaned the back of fuse block. Removed all circuits from fuse block and cleaned all the terminals. Traced green wire from light switch to fuse block and I still don't get power to either terminal that holds the fuse for instruments lights. Replaced all fuses in block. Dome light works when I turn the knob on light switch. What am I missing Where does the green wire on the back of the fuse block get its power source? Have colored wiring chart also service manual. I can't figure out why I'am not getting power to this one fuse location. All other fuses have power when I touch with a test light. I can't figure this one out, any help would sure be appreciated.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by lorans65

I am having a problem trying to figure out my dash lights. Replaced headlight switch checked and cleaned all ground connections. Removed fuse block and cleaned all terminals that hold the fuses also cleaned the back of fuse block. Removed all circuits from fuse block and cleaned all the terminals. Traced green wire from light switch to fuse block and I still don't get power to either terminal that holds the fuse for instruments lights. Replaced all fuses in block. Dome light works when I turn the knob on light switch. What am I missing Where does the green wire on the back of the fuse block get its power source? Have colored wiring chart also service manual. I can't figure out why I'am not getting power to this one fuse location. All other fuses have power when I touch with a test light. I can't figure this one out, any help would sure be appreciated.

From the headlight switch I just spent the whole day on mine inst lights inop changed the switch and same thing ended up tearing whole dash apart nothing made sense I dug an old switch out of the shed and it fixed the problem.
Green wire is hot out of switch this is your rheostat control goes through the fuse box where it is fused only no power pole turns to gray the grey feeds all the lights in the cluster where you pick up the ground to complete the circuit. Make sure you have a good ground at the switch it must be grounded to work the only light that is not grounded by the cluster is the radio light has its own ground. I had 2 bad switches drove me cazy check my posts I have an old harness and deconstructed it believe me 2 days pulling my hair out. If you check the switch without grounding it you will not see power at the green wire. Also if you follow the grey it dead ends at the turn signal connector so no power there .what does your test light do when you probe the green wire ?is it bright or barely lit?Pm me if you need more help .

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

From the headlight switch I just spent the whole day on mine inst lights inop changed the switch and same thing ended up tearing whole dash apart nothing made sense I dug an old switch out of the shed and it fixed the problem.
Green wire is hot out of switch this is your rheostat control goes through the fuse box where it is fused only no power pole turns to gray the grey feeds all the lights in the cluster where you pick up the ground to complete the circuit. Make sure you have a good ground at the switch it must be grounded to work the only light that is not grounded by the cluster is the radio light has its own ground. I had 2 bad switches drove me cazy check my posts I have an old harness and deconstructed it believe me 2 days pulling my hair out. If you check the switch without grounding it you will not see power at the green wire. Also if you follow the grey it dead ends at the turn signal connector so no power there .what does your test light do when you probe the green wire ?is it bright or barely lit?Pm me if you need more help .

One more thing the dome light works throuh a ground circuit its hot all the time when you turn the switch all the way to the left there is a small brass arm on the switch that makes contact with the body of the switch to ground it out.

[lorans65]

Thanks for the reply 1966 geeto. Guess I need to get a new light switch. I checked the switch at the plug in and my probe light lit up when I touched the red and white stripped wire and also the red wire. When I touch the green wire in the light switch plug in I don't get anything. After taking the fuse block apart and spending all day with the Dremel cleaning all the fuse brackets and looking at each and every wire I am at a stand still. Is it possible the new light switch I have would have one bad plug in? Also after I put the ignition switch back in to check the dash lights again, I turned the key to the right and the engine tried to start. I thought the key to the right would first go to accessory then with slight pressure the starter would try to engage. To be honest I can't remember I think I am getting totally burned out with this electrical under taking.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by lorans65

Thanks for the reply 1966 geeto. Guess I need to get a new light switch. I checked the switch at the plug in and my probe light lit up when I touched the red and white stripped wire and also the red wire. When I touch the green wire in the light switch plug in I don't get anything. After taking the fuse block apart and spending all day with the Dremel cleaning all the fuse brackets and looking at each and every wire I am at a stand still. Is it possible the new light switch I have would have one bad plug in? Also after I put the ignition switch back in to check the dash lights again, I turned the key to the right and the engine tried to start. I thought the key to the right would first go to accessory then with slight pressure the starter would try to engage. To be honest I can't remember I think I am getting totally burned out with this electrical under taking.

It can happen fast walk away for a while. The ign switch to the right is on then pressure to the far right is start in the on position everything except the purple and green will light start position purple will light- the split green is for the warning light. I was going nuts trying to figure out where the dash lights picked up the power I knew the first switch was bad but never thought the second switch would have the same symptoms so I basically deconstructed a dash harness I had laying around and that's what it told me.

green wire from switch to fuse box through fuse box comes out gray does not pick up power from the box grey supplies all the lights except for the idiot lights it picks up its ground from the cluster housing the dome light uses the headlight switch to ground the circuit when you turn the switch to the far left turning on the dome lights these wires are orange hot white rheostat ground. Going to Napa to see if they can get me a better quality switch. As long as there is power at the dark green coming from the light switch you should have lights.

[1966geeto]

I wanted to let you know that on the green wire if you probe it with a test light your light should be dim not showing 12 volts it's a grounding circuit with all the confusion this might help.

[lorans65]

Will take your advice and walk away for awhile. Question concerning the ignition switch, I don't have any pressure to the right on the switch as soon as I turn the switch to the right engine tries to start no pressure needed. Did I mess up something on the ignition switch when I was following wires? I don't remember it acting this way. I guess old age is kicking in. Will go to Napa today and try to find another headlight switch. Thanks again for your help.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by lorans65

Will take your advice and walk away for awhile. Question concerning the ignition switch, I don't have any pressure to the right on the switch as soon as I turn the switch to the right engine tries to start no pressure needed. Did I mess up something on the ignition switch when I was following wires? I don't remember it acting this way. I guess old age is kicking in. Will go to Napa today and try to find another headlight switch. Thanks again for your help.

Napa does not carry the switch PY has one for 18.00 couple on e bay buy more money. As far as your IGN switch goes no it should not try to start only when in the far right position and the switch is designed to spring back out of the start position back to run.

neutral position insert key
On position 1 turn right
Start position all way right let go key should return to on position
All way to the left is Acc.

Sounds like your ign switch is going out could be the cause of all your problems ?
Good luck