[400 Lemans]

I've seen that happen too. Pump shaft busted out of its block hole. It looked like a pretzel caught up in crank and locked the engine down.

[MarkS57]

Curious, do the "clean" pistons correspond to the plugs that had no gap?

[wbnapier]

MarkS57 - That's a good question, I don't have the answer. When I pulled the plugs, I didn't think I'd end up where I am with this engine, and didn't consider ordering them. Lesson learned. From my recollection, they were on the passenger side. On a side note, there is zero chance I forgot to gap them. I did them all the first time, and did a double check of the gap at a later date. I can post pics later, but they are all clean. The car only drove a couple miles, had a good AFR, etc...

[dataway]

Almost like it ingested something soft, enough to close up the gaps but not damage metal ... like piece of hose or something, then melts and seizes a cylinder after cooling on shut down. Plastic would be capable of that, chunk of carb spacer etc.

I like these kinds of mysteries but I hate that someone has to suffer for them.

[AG]

What was the P/W clearance for each cylinder?

[sdbob]

I was talking to a spouse. She told me her husband wrote every clearance down on every engine he built. She was going through the notebook after husband's passing. My point, myself included we should write down clearances when we assemble the engine. That way if something happens like this you may a clue what happened.

[HWYSTR455]

Always write down the build info.

There are many, readily available, downloadable forms for free you can use, just search it.

Here's one as an example:

https://www.powernationtv.com/assets...data-sheet.pdf



.

[wbnapier]

AG - Ross specs 0.004" up to 4.49" bore for these "radius corner" pistons. My notes show that I was larger, from 0.0051" to 0.0055" . I was worried about too much clearance, but I had to also account for my measuring skills and eyesight.

The machinist had the pistons in his hands and did a final hone.

I was comfortable with the clearance. No slap or weird noises while running. Here is a video from the first start up in my driveway:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lobyla9yj5..._3097.MOV?dl=0

[HWYSTR455]

Blows me away how many machine shops don't provide this type of info when doing work, totally unacceptable.

[Old Man Taylor]

Let me know if you would like me to drop by. I live in Escondido. I can't provide much physical help, but I can provide another set of eyes and thoughts.

[ponjohn]

OMT is the best.

[johnta1]

Always write down the build info.

There are many, readily available, downloadable forms for free you can use, just search it.

Here's another checklist of mine:

Engine Build Sheet pdf


And one from Lee Atkinson:

Assembly Check List

[Old Man Taylor]

I remember proof reading that Assembly Checklist for Lee about 20 years ago. If it's missing something, we both missed it.

[wbnapier]

Update-

I pulled the engine and did a partial disassemble.

Old Many Taylor - If I fix this, I'd like your help on initial startup when the time comes. I'm done with disassemble. I will drive this to my machinist Monday, have him complete the tear down and quote for a complete long block. Based on that, reassess where I am financially with this car and what options I have.

No smoking gun. Heads and pan off. Valve train is good. No visible apocalypse, but significant metal.

Photos -

1 & 2) Metal in oil pan.
3) "Double ring" witness marks on oil pump driveshaft, circled in red. Ignore another area of wear, that was me filing a rough spot in assembly.
4) Cam sprocket keyway chipped.
5) Random metal by oil pump.

More photos to follow.

[wbnapier]

More photos.

It's hot, and I'm tired. I could do better photos, but I need a break.

Note the vertical striations in one bore.

I cracked number 8 rod cap loose and I was able to move the piston.

Here's what more I have...

[61-63]

I asked you some # of posts ago what type of pistons you had; cast, forged, or hyper. You never answered. If they are hyper then the .020 ring gap you mentioned somewhere above is way too tight, and the engine seizing could be the result of the top rings expanding due to heat and stopping piston travel. Most of the time this starts popping the top ring lands off but if it occurred just as you lifted off the throttle could have just seized the engine. In one of those pictures it looks like part of a top ring land has popped off.

I came back. The thing I saw is shadow so nix my comment re a ring land coming off. Is that stuff in the pan aluminum or steel/iron?

[johnta1]

Does the engine rotate now?

[ponjohn]

Is that deep scuffing on that one piston skirt?

[Old Man Taylor]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

Update-

I pulled the engine and did a partial disassemble.

Old Many Taylor - If I fix this, I'd like your help on initial startup when the time comes. I'm done with disassemble. I will drive this to my machinist Monday, have him complete the tear down and quote for a complete long block. Based on that, reassess where I am financially with this car and what options I have.

No smoking gun. Heads and pan off. Valve train is good. No visible apocalypse, but significant metal.

Photos -

1 & 2) Metal in oil pan.
3) "Double ring" witness marks on oil pump driveshaft, circled in red. Ignore another area of wear, that was me filing a rough spot in assembly.
4) Cam sprocket keyway chipped.
5) Random metal by oil pump.

More photos to follow.

PLEASE call me! I sent you a PM with my number.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

Some cylinder bore pics attached. File number indicates cylinder number for most, but I got mixed up.

Edit - No smoking gun, but I'm suspect there'll be something obvious when the heads come off.

Looks like the cylinder in picture #3 is ingesting coolant. The piston is too clean