[Speargun]

WOW! I must have missed this thread.
I had almost the exact same thing happen to my 455.
ARP rod bolt backed out & self destructed the engine.

My Engine Carnage

[charlie66]

Wow ! Sorry to see this man.. Hope you can work it out and save as much as you can..

[Bill Eveland]

Side question, but wondering what the bottom end would be safe to shift at. I was told with these big heads on a 469 need to be well over 7k

Stock crank, Molnar rods, icon pistons. Sfi balancer. 2 bolt caps with arp studs. 80 lbs pump, lifter bore restrictors.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Bill Eveland

Side question, but wondering what the bottom end would be safe to shift at. I was told with these big heads on a 469 need to be well over 7k

Stock crank, Molnar rods, icon pistons. Sfi balancer. 2 bolt caps with arp studs. 80 lbs pump, lifter bore restrictors.

Its not about the heads that tell where the engine will make pear HP, its about the cam. Get the right cam for the RPM you want to run.
Just got a custom Comp cam that will make peak HP well under 7000 RPM in a 461 with heads that go 359cfm.
The same cam on 505s with HUGE flowing wide ports make big time pump gas HP at 6500 RPM.
Modern LS truck engines have high flowing heads and intakes with relatively small cams that are efficient.
Get the right cam. I would not spin a 2 bolt 455 with N crank over 7K much. Let it live a long and happy life with the right cam.

[Bill Eveland]

Crack was in #4, i found this on #7 rod. 7 is to the left on the crank pic. If it ain't one thing it's another

[Dragncar]

What kind of main bearings are you running ? Clearances ?

[AG]

Originally Posted by Bill Eveland

Side question, but wondering what the bottom end would be safe to shift at. I was told with these big heads on a 469 need to be well over 7k

Stock crank, Molnar rods, icon pistons. Sfi balancer. 2 bolt caps with arp studs. 80 lbs pump, lifter bore restrictors.

My 2 bolt stock cap 400/461 with ARP studs had fretting between the caps and block shifting at 6500-6700 rpm.

[slowbird]

Imo steel vs alum rods will determine how happy the 2 bolt caps are

[Bill Eveland]

Rods are .0027- .0028. Main .003. 20w50 vr1. I had a little fretting and went to longer dowels to tighten it back up.

[Dragncar]

Before the aftermarket blocks the guys running 2 bolt 455 blocks were using aluminum rods and light pistons and .927 pins to live turning that kind of RPM. And still on borrowed time.
Steel rods, 2 bolt with stock crank and 7K do not mix. .003 is kinda tight on a 3.25 crank. If you have Clevites with round oil hole that needs modified at any rate.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by Bill Eveland

Rods are .0027- .0028. Main .003. 20w50 vr1. I had a little fretting and went to longer dowels to tighten it back up.

Some thick oil for the clearances imo but it's not a real issue

[Bill Eveland]

Ive have to double check with the machine shop but pretty sure thats what he set them for.

[Bill Eveland]

Do the King racing rod bearings have the same clearance as a clevite or fm?

[Gary H]

My experience is that the King and Clevite rod bearings run close to the same. The Sealed Power bearings run thinner, sometimes as much as .0003 per shell

[Bill Eveland]

What would be a better suggestion, straight 30 wt?

Originally Posted by slowbird

Some thick oil for the clearances imo but it's not a real issue

[Dragncar]

My suggestion, buy a cam tailor made to get max power at 6500RPM or less. Not to turn a giant main, spindly cap 2 bolt 455 over 7K or anything close to 7K with steel rods. I would not even consider it. You could run aluminum rods and get by for awhile until the main caps start flapping around and then the same thing happens.
Engine I am doing right now has splayed billet caps and it is getting a cam that will get it done well under 7K. And hopefully live a long happy life.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Before the aftermarket blocks the guys running 2 bolt 455 blocks were using aluminum rods and light pistons and .927 pins to live turning that kind of RPM. And still on borrowed time..... at any rate.

That would be my Spare Engine. Needs a 6.625" Al Rod with those Chevy ends,
or I need a set of slugs for 6.8" rod and 4.21 Stroke.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

My suggestion, buy a cam tailor made to get max power at 6500RPM or less. Not to turn a giant main, spindly cap 2 bolt 455 over 7K or anything close to 7K with steel rods. I would not even consider it. You could run aluminum rods and get by for awhile until the main caps start flapping around and then the same thing happens.
Engine I am doing right now has splayed billet caps and it is getting a cam that will get it done well under 7K. And hopefully live a long happy life.

What would a cam like that look like?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by slowbird

What would a cam like that look like?

Not giving up the cam card slowbird. There are a few of these around, custom deal and every engine has run very well. Made its power below 7K even with a big set of heads, carb and intake.

[Bill Eveland]

So this "magic " cam is not the one you're selling?