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#1
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Need some direction on fixing/replacing my gas tank
I'm trying to decide what to do with the gas tank in my '73 Formula. It is an OEM tank, however it is not original to this specific car. It is quite clean inside. However, when someone replaced the tank with this one(used at that point) years ago they put some of the anti-squeak stuff between the tank and the straps.
I think I read somewhere on PY that Firebirds did not have this originally. Is that correct? But, I digress. Anyway, when I started cleaning up the outside of the tank, I noticed there were fairly deep pits in the metal where the straps had been. To this point the tank had never leaked to my knowledge. It seems to me, however, that these pits would be a likely place for that to become an issue somewhere down the road. So, I am trying to decide what to do here. I would really prefer to use the OEM tank as all the aftermarket tanks I have used on projects in the past have been somewhere between "well, I guess it'll work" and "what a piece of crap" as far as quality. Out of the different suppliers I have used in the past, I think the Tanks Inc one was the best. But, it was still just OK in my opinion. Because of this I have debated cleaning my OEM tank up and smearing some sort of epoxy over the pitted areas as a precautionary measure and taking my chances. I am also trying to figure out the sending unit. It is also OEM and works like a champ. But, the tubes that come off of it and run along the front of the gas tank look as though the may have some thin spots. Once again, it has also not leaked up to this point. But, what may the future hold? I really don't know what the best direction is. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#2
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I have used POR 15 on the pits after etching with fast etch, or metal ready, or vinegar. Clean with DX330 , or solvent based wax and grease remover.(kleen strip is cheapest) .dry completely. You can do 2 coats of POR if you wait 24 hours between coats. The top gets squeak pads . Another option I have used is "Marine Tex" Its a much more resilient version of JB WELD.
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#3
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I have never heard of Marine Tex before. I'll have to check that out. Thanks
__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#4
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You could sand blast the pits (or wire wheel really good) and apply panel bond. The panel bond will prevent rust from starting again. Sand the panel bond smooth then epoxy primer and paint with 2K top coat. Gas dissolves most ordinary spray can paints so make sure you use something that gas won't wash off.
I wouldn't use POR-15 on a gas tank.
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John Paige Lab-14.com |
#5
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In the past, I've used something that I believe was referred to as panel bond. I believe it was a 3M product. But, it seems like it was quite expensive for what I am doing now. The stuff I am talking about came in those tubes that use a special gun to mix the components as they are being applied. Are we talking about the same thing or not?
__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#6
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i used a new spectra brand tank in my 72.. its a very nice tank & fits perfect & was priced cheap. far above "i guess it will work" & definitely not a piece of crap. if you arent happy with the issues on the OEM i wouldnt hesitate on the spectra or the tanksinc from what ive seen & read, they get great reviews.
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#7
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Yes, 3M 8115 panel bond, and ya 50 bucks a tube so if you or a bud don't keep it around then kinda expensive if you just need a little. You don't need the special gun though, you can just push the plungers equally without a mixing nozzle on and mix like bondo on a piece of cardboard or whatever. Although I have the special guns for the various 2 part products I push small amounts without nozzle and mix on a little scrap fairly often because I'm cheap and don't want to waste the material we lose in the nozzles.
I've seen cars where the tank was painted with spray cans of regular paint, then someone spills fuel filling it or the cap leaks while accelerating and it makes the paint look like crap. I recently finished the original tank for my '70. Obviously I'm not after not stock appearance but the tank was perfectly rust free inside and out so I straightened & smoothed it. I prefer original parts if I can use them. Better fit, blah,blah,blah. Car is a track car so I installed Holley Hydramat. Tank was shot in acrylic enamel and filler neck in BC/CC using a matte clear.
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John Paige Lab-14.com |
#8
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Would filling/coating tank pits with windshield urethane be too easy?
Just asking Clay |
#9
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#10
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__________________
John Paige Lab-14.com |
#11
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__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#12
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not sure how long ago you used one, just wanted to reply to your comment that they are pieces of crap or barely acceptable, & if by chance you do get one thats defective or has a fitment issue at all, they have a warranty & will replace it for free. |
#13
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X3 Factor in your labor and materials and there really is no choice here. I have a Spectra FI tank in my 79 - excellent fit. |
#14
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I just used a tank From AMES fit fine. used orignal straps . neck had to be adjusted to center in pocket
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#15
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I replaced the sending unit first(can't recall who I got it from, but not Spectra) and it fit in the OEM tank just fine. When I decided I was never going to get the old tank 100% clean(had sat for probably 15 years and there was a lot of rust on the inside), I replaced it with the new Spectra. Like I said, the tank fit well in the truck, but when I tried to re-install the sending unit, the fit was quite sloppy. I ended up tweaking the lock ring a fair bit to secure the sending unit firmly in the new tank. Even then it didn't fit quite as tight as it had in the original tank. But, it was tight enough that it didn't appear to leak after I altered the lock ring.
__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#16
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I had read here about the neck fitment. That's one of the reasons I was hoping to reuse the OEM tank. I know it's not a huge deal. But, I have gotten to be "a grouchy old man"(even though I'm only middle-aged) when "direct replacement" parts need alterations... unless of course I get them at a ridiculous discount.
__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#17
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Just curious because it infuriates me when companies sell a faulty item and expect the buyer to pay the shipping on the replacement(so, basically paying shipping twice on the same part). Especially when it is something large like this that is not cheap to ship anyway.
__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
#18
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#19
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__________________
"What the hell's wrong with freedom man? That's what it's all about." (Billy) "Oh yeah, that's what it's all about alright... but talkin about it and bein it, that's two different things." (George) Easyrider |
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