[turbo69bird]

Here’s a picture of a drive shaft I was doing compared to a natural steel header and looking at the
Welds before applying it. Sadly don’t have finished pictures of the shaft .

The others are photos I had of a firebird convertible from years ago how it was done back then.
Hard to get natural
Steel
To look
Like
Natural steel
Probably one of the hardest finishes to get right. iMO.

[Formulabruce]

While real, the 1st gen assembly plant photos are a staged photo- op. What is seen is probably making it all look the best it can. Another example would be chevys cut away cars in 67 and 68. Have seen many pics that were colorized from that era as well. Not many publications used more than 1 page of color due to huge costs.
On my buddies rear I had it plastic blasted and clear coated it due to small amount of surface rust on ends of tube near the backing plates. The tube weld marks were then gone.
So, I wouldn't take publicity pics as gospel.

[turbo69bird]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

While real, the 1st gen assembly plant photos are a staged photo- op. What is seen is probably making it all look the best it can. Another example would be chevys cut away cars in 67 and 68. Have seen many pics that were colorized from that era as well. Not many publications used more than 1 page of color due to huge costs.
On my buddies rear I had it plastic blasted and clear coated it due to small amount of surface rust on ends of tube near the backing plates. The tube weld marks were then gone.
So, I wouldn't take publicity pics as gospel.

Idk if I’d say overspray all over the exhaust system was perfect world picture . Unless that’s not the pic you’re describing . Looks kinda like a hack job to me. Too lazy to reach in past the exhaust to spray the rear diff .

[Formulabruce]

IMHO.... The red 1st gen is a "show car" for advertising or a Zone office car.
That exhaust paint etc is NOT the norm.
I'm not claiming to be an expert, but I can say that cars for the general public just never looked that good delivered.

[Ramairnacho]

How do you fill in slight pitting if rear end is suppose To be bare metal? I guess bare metal grey color?

[Formulabruce]

For pitted axles, once blasted, I use acetic acid, or if bad pitting I use Phosphoric acid, then rinse and quickly dry with a heat gun. Then use SPI Epoxy,
I use the gray. This epoxy is sandable like a filler primer. Usually takes 2 coats to fill. Then sand with 180- 220, then 360 grit.
Then I use a "BARE STEEL paint. ( you can get this in a spray can, the stainless steel paint works well too) This will have some metallic slight effects and no paint can replicate the look of shiny bare steel.
Paint must fully dry on the axle tubes. The center cast section is bare and super clean with solvent based wax and grease remover. before I clear it with 2 part clear.
Then I use a 2K high quality gloss clear to make up for the not so shiny steel paint.
This rear had zero pits, but my buddy wanted it durable to drive, so here it is before I assembled it. Its just hanging off my tractor forks right after clear coat.