[fyrffytr1]

I finally got the nerve up to crawl under my 67 GTO to change the starter. The old might turn the motor over or it might not.
I put a re manufactured one on as a warranty exchange and all it will do is try to get in and then just make a series of rapid clicks.
The battery is new and charged to 100%. I put the two shims that were on the old starter in with the new one.
Would it work to loosen the starter bolts very slightly to see if the starter will engage?

[turbo69bird]

As with any electrical issue check your grounds first
But topically a tick tick tick from a starter means a low battery. Just cause it is showing full voltage it could have a dead cell I’d have the battery load tested.
Most auto parts stores or auto electric repair shops can load test for you.

[Goatracer1]

Rapid clicking with the key held to start indicates voltage too low to engage the solenoid. Check for a low battery or a bad connection. Check BOTH starter cables on both ends. One load click indicates that you had enough voltage to engage the solenoid but the starter won't turn. Could be bad starter, flywheel won't turn or again voltage too low to turn starter.

[george kujanski]

A bunch of clickey_clicks means a weak battery ofR a bad battery connection, dirty posts, etc.

George

[Kenth]

Check for 1/8" between starter pinion gear shaft and flex plate cogs.
A 1/8" Allen key should fit but not twist.

HTH

[66sprint6]

Maybe take it out and bench test it? We actually have a "new" bad starter right now. It's sitting in the garage. I installed it in the LeMans last year, all new battery cables, good battery, everything. Clickity click. I put another old starter that I had back in and no problem. That's the first time I've ever had an issue with a part that I bought. So it does happen.

[fyrffytr1]

I took the starter off and took it back to the parts store. They tested it and it was good. They still had my old starter and it tested good as well. I am thinking that it may be the positive cable. I will replace it to be sure.
Thanks for all the tips.

[fyrffytr1]

I replaced the positive and ground cable, made sure the battery was fully charged as I had put it on charge last night. Still wouldn't turn the motor over. So, I took the six month old battery back to the battery store. When they checked it there was not enough charge to put it on a load test. They lent me an old battery while they put mine on their charger. The loaner battery worked perfect, motor turned over each time I hit the key. I did not start the car because the exhaust was still loose. I took the loaner back to the battery store and told them that it worked perfectly. They said that my battery would have to be brought up to full charge before they could do a load test and it was only at about 60% when I brought it in. I said even at 60% the battery should have had enough juice to try and start my car.
Anyway, they won't open back up until Monday. I will find out then but I think the battery is bad.

[fyrffytr1]

I picked up my battery today. Seller said it was good. It cranked the car this time so I don't know what the problem is. Only other thing would be the alternator or am I missing something? New starter, cables and battery.

[jabgolfcars]

Yep, put a voltmeter on the battery when the motor's running & make sure it's charging. Should be at least 14 volts.

[Greg Reid]

Phil, check the voltage from the switch where it attaches to the solenoid 'S' lug. I chased that problem for a while and even went with a mini starter before I found out that my starter wire, the purple one, was dropping about 6 volts between the ignition switch and the starter. I replaced that wire and have not had another problem.
Mine was intermittent also. I had to rig up a voltmeter down on the solenoid so that the next time it happened l could check the voltage. Every time it clicked l only had 5 volts. When it worked l had around 10volts. The wire itself was the problem.

[fyrffytr1]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Phil, check the voltage from the switch where it attaches to the solenoid 'S' lug. I chased that problem for a while and even went with a mini starter before I found out that my starter wire, the purple one, was dropping about 6 volts between the ignition switch and the starter. I replaced that wire and have not had another problem.
Mine was intermittent also. I had to rig up a voltmeter down on the solenoid so that the next time it happened l could check the voltage. Every time it clicked l only had 5 volts. When it worked l had around 10volts. The wire itself was the problem.

Greg,
Thanks for the tip. One other thing I just thought of is the voltage regulator but I installed an adapter from M&H to do away with it. I will check the voltage on the battery tomorrow if the bad weather coming doesn't blow me away!

[Greg Reid]

Don't forget Phil, I'm not talking about battery voltage. I'm talking about voltage present at the solenoid when the key is being turned. If the wire has high resistance it will drop most of the voltage being supplied by the battery. It will act exactly as if the battery itself were weak.

[fyrffytr1]

I put my volt meter on the battery while the engine was running and got 14.74 volts. Checked the hot lead at the alternator to ground and got the same thing. I guess it was the battery cables.