#41  
Old 01-15-2018, 12:31 PM
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Yeah, my stuff is slammed, it's about the height of a pack of cigs from the ground, so that's probably why I shy away from them! Top of my fender is like 31", which is just below my knee. @ 26" tire.

When I go to pull engines, I have to slightly lift the car to get the legs of the picker past the control arms. I generally have extra air dams that I have painted when the car gets painted, just for spares.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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  #42  
Old 01-15-2018, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Yeah, my stuff is slammed, it's about the height of a pack of cigs from the ground,
.
Holy Cow!!! How do you drive something like that? A day of driving that around here and I'd have the rockers self clearanced for you

  #43  
Old 01-15-2018, 03:28 PM
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Skip Fix Skip Fix is offline
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Tried Lakewood bars, the Tri City springs worked much better. They no longer make the bars Like Jenkins used to run with the J bar and a longer rear section past the leaf spring mount. The longer rear was supposed to keep the front from dropping too much when off the gas.

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1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
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  #44  
Old 01-15-2018, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
They no longer make the bars Like Jenkins used to run with the J bar and a longer rear section past the leaf spring mount. The longer rear was supposed to keep the front from dropping too much when off the gas.
Gotta search the classifieds for those. I have a pair on our nomad.

  #45  
Old 01-15-2018, 03:42 PM
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I tried a "traction" or "slapper bar" once, couldn't get them off my car fast enough. That was WAY back when I first started taking steps to make it fast at the track. I had owned, drove and raced a 1970 440 powered Roadrunner for quite a few years, so took the Super Stock leaf spring/adjustable pinion snubber/drag racing shocks concept and set the Ventura up in similar fashion. Hooks SOLID on 8" wide DOT tires with an engine making around 600ft lbs torque on the starting line, and other than breaking quite a few parts early on it's been pretty much rock solid since upgrading everything behind the engine to handle that kind of power. I'll put up some pics when I get a moment, currently BURIED in work and it's pretty cold on that side of the shop!.........Cliff

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73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile),
  #46  
Old 01-15-2018, 07:25 PM
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Most traction bars are to short. Make your own. The snubber should hit the eye of the spring not 3-4 inches back where most do.
The caltrac and split mono leaf with the rear slider is the way to go though.
Weld your axle tubes anyway, it does not hurt.

  #47  
Old 01-15-2018, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JSPONT View Post
Most traction bars are to short. Make your own. The snubber should hit the eye of the spring not 3-4 inches back where most do.
.
Easy cheap fix. I only briefly mentioned it earlier, but I take a smaller square bar that slides inside the existing traction bar. Make the length you need and weld it on, re-drill for the snubber and you're in business. It's so easy, takes like 10 minutes.

For the nostalgia "day 2" guys though, if that's the theme of the car, it changes the appearance too much.

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Old 01-15-2018, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R View Post
I tried a "traction" or "slapper bar" once, couldn't get them off my car fast enough. That was WAY back when I first started taking steps to make it fast at the track. I had owned, drove and raced a 1970 440 powered Roadrunner for quite a few years, so took the Super Stock leaf spring/adjustable pinion snubber/drag racing shocks concept and set the Ventura up in similar fashion. Hooks SOLID on 8" wide DOT tires with an engine making around 600ft lbs torque on the starting line, and other than breaking quite a few parts early on it's been pretty much rock solid since upgrading everything behind the engine to handle that kind of power. I'll put up some pics when I get a moment, currently BURIED in work and it's pretty cold on that side of the shop!.........Cliff
Yep, Chrysler got that figured out early on during the S/S days, and it works very well.

  #49  
Old 01-16-2018, 08:51 AM
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I also like "stock appearing" stuff, probably pretty obvious to most who read my responses on here.

NOTHING more fun for me than to go to a local test and tune night and outrun just about every street car that shows up there. The icing on the cake is when folks wonder over to check the car out in staging and see the stock 7" Ralley wheels, stock ride height, no bars of any kind, stock carb/intake/valve covers, etc, etc. I even use quiet mufflers and full length tail pipes, plus the engine is nearly smooth at idle. The looks on their faces when they see the Q-jet and stock air cleaner/Shaker set-up......PRICELESS!........Cliff

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73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile),
  #50  
Old 01-27-2023, 11:09 PM
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This thread is a great checklist.

Are those "Reinforced lightweight aluminum rear end covers designed to strengthen the rear housing case in heavy torque situations" worthwhile on a 8.5" 10 bolt at the OP's power level?

  #51  
Old 01-28-2023, 02:06 AM
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I took a different approach to "axle wrap" concerns of the '57 Chevy-car posi rear in my '59 GMC. I designed and fabricated a center torque arm (think late Firebirds). It attaches to top/bottom of the axle housing just beside the driveshaft. A Heim joint at its front attaches to the bottom of a short vertical link that pivots fore/aft on a frame crossmember. It's about 3 1/2' long, and the geometry is such that there's no binding with the springs U-bolted to the axle housings in the normal manner. Torque arms also control the housing under braking forces better than other schemes.

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  #52  
Old 01-28-2023, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
Holy Cow!!! How do you drive something like that? A day of driving that around here and I'd have the rockers self clearanced for you
Heheh! Missed this! The roads around here are really good, my only challenges are really just speed bumps, and drastic parking lot transitions. As long as I go slow for those, I'm good.


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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
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  #53  
Old 01-28-2023, 02:56 PM
sdbob sdbob is offline
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On my 10 bolt besides welding tubes. I placed a plate,about 2" wide,3/16" thick between U bolts running from front of spring perch over top of housing to back of spring perch( needs to be heated and bent or 2 smaller pieces front and back). Welded front top and back of perch. This way the perch has more support. Also for my other mod. I removed rubber around springs in perch. Welded a plate inside where rubber went. Then I bolted springs together with allen headed bolt and round nut. Then I installed in car making sure of wheel base. Marking plate I welded in perch. Drilling hole so Allen head bolt was snug but lose. Then I wrapped a layer of inner tube around spring(for squeaks) installed bolts. That has worked for me. A little harsh on the street.

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