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Old 05-05-2002, 10:08 AM
Engine-Ear's Avatar
Engine-Ear Engine-Ear is offline
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Location: West O' Milwaukee, Wis.
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Hi Everyone,

I am trying to get help with the retrofit of a 100A alternator into a generator-era car ('62)...if you have experience with this, I would really like to hear or read from you.

Here's what I am up to:

a) I'm converting the charging circuit of the wiring harness from generator to alternator (I would like to understand the wiring changes for both the INternally- and EXternally-regulated alternator designs)

and

b) I'm using the OEM ammeter and some additional circuitry (if necessary and hidden behind the dash) so as not to destroy the movement with a higher-current alternator. I believe that the high-roller generator in '62 was 55A design, almost HALF of the 100A unit I want to install. I don't want to fry the ammeter movement with possibly twice the current.

feel free to email me with electrical schematics or web links to folks who have been in the shoes I wear right now. You guys have come thru before...I need your experience again- thanks in advance for your post!

  #2  
Old 05-05-2002, 10:08 AM
Engine-Ear's Avatar
Engine-Ear Engine-Ear is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: West O' Milwaukee, Wis.
Posts: 6,137
Default

Hi Everyone,

I am trying to get help with the retrofit of a 100A alternator into a generator-era car ('62)...if you have experience with this, I would really like to hear or read from you.

Here's what I am up to:

a) I'm converting the charging circuit of the wiring harness from generator to alternator (I would like to understand the wiring changes for both the INternally- and EXternally-regulated alternator designs)

and

b) I'm using the OEM ammeter and some additional circuitry (if necessary and hidden behind the dash) so as not to destroy the movement with a higher-current alternator. I believe that the high-roller generator in '62 was 55A design, almost HALF of the 100A unit I want to install. I don't want to fry the ammeter movement with possibly twice the current.

feel free to email me with electrical schematics or web links to folks who have been in the shoes I wear right now. You guys have come thru before...I need your experience again- thanks in advance for your post!

  #3  
Old 05-08-2002, 06:50 PM
george kujanski's Avatar
george kujanski george kujanski is online now
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: palatine, il. USA
Posts: 7,850
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For the externally regulated flavor: the output (BAT ) gets connected directly to the battery through a fusible link. The field (F) terminal on the alternator 2 wire connector goes to the F terminal on the firewall mounted mechanical regulator. The (R) terminal on the alternator 2 wire connector goes to terminal 2 on the regulator. Terminal 3 on the regulator is connected to the battery through a fusible link and terminal 4 on the regulator is connected to the dash idiot light.

The internally regulated version is: the output is connected similarly to the above. Terminal 1 on the alternator 2 wire connector is connected to the idiot light and terminal 2 on the 2 wire is connected to the battery through a fusible link.

AS far as I remember, the generator has 2 wires: F (field) and A (armature). Both of these go to the mechanical regulator on the firewall. A Circuit from the ignition key goes to the regulator also. The ammeter is probably connected between the battery and the regulator. The output from the generator goes to the regulator and then thru the ammeter to the battery.

That's the best I can do without a schematic to refresh my memory.

It would be interesting to see what current full scale represents on the ammeter. You can probably put a low resistance power resistor across your ammeter to effectively change the scale and bypass some of the current.

Regards, George

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