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Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6, Also Pontiac Motors in non-Pontiacs! |
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#21
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Pulled the heads. Installed new lifters and trays. Installed new matched springs for the cam. Installed new head bolts and gaskets. Put motor back together. Installed the remote oil filter and fittings for test purposes. Pre lubed the oil system with break in oil. Wired up the Holley on the bench and fired the motor off. Made sure it was firing on all cylinders. All is good and nothing exited the block. Took a trip down to Somerset Ky for the summers night cruise. That was a nice time. Never been down there for that before.
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#22
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Finally got started on the swap. Pulled all the connections. Pulled the hood. Got the lift setup and got the old motor out. Not an easy task to do by yourself. Got the old motor set down on the floor and secured. Got things prepped to start cleaning the engine bay. Radiator showed up at the office was worried about its condition after looking at the box. Plus its the 3rd package that FedEx has said I signed for and left but every time I have been an hour away.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Way2qwk4u For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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Got the car rolled out of the garage and into the driveway. Washed it all down. Then sprayed it down good with degreaser. Let it sit and the pressure washed it off. I did this probably 4 times. Looks a lot better. Kept going till I could not see anything else coming off the frame. Washed the motor down as well. Lubed the cylinder bores and sealed the engine up. Then the fun part was getting the car back in the shop by my self. Luckily I had a 12 volt winch. Was able to attach that to the garage and use it to pull the car back in.
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#24
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Was talking to dad, he was thinking the motor might have been from a buddies formula FB. Any way to tell from the casting numbers? It did run good. Got the car frame de greased and wiped down. Painted the engine bay. Installed the motor mounts. And started to get the new motor ready to drop in.
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#25
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Got the motor set in place. And Like I knew would happen eventually ran into my first issue. The swap pan I had picked up fit in the bay. But the drop in the pan was laying on the backside of the crossmember. So I could not tilt the motor back any at all. Looked good but was not going to work. So I had to order the pan that BRP sells for this swap. Got it in and replaced and it fit perfectly. Now I will have to re figure how I am running the oil cooler lines because the new Moroso pan does not have the AN fittings that the other pan had. But at least it is in. I got pretty into finishing it up at this point so I did not take many pictures at this point. But got the 4L80E installed. No tunnel mods. Crossmembers in. Got the cooler lines made up and installed. Shift linkage installed and the factory floor shifter converted to the OD pattern. Headers dropped in. Passenger was no problem the drivers side barley kissed the crossmember. Fixed that issue. Ran the fuel lines. Installed the pump in the tank. Installed the filter on the frame. Ran my new battery cable to the front. Installed fuel pump electrics. started on the wiring harness. Measured for new driveshaft and took the old one to get cut down. About 1.75" place downtown does nice work. They called and said the old one was like a bent noodle. So it was time for a new one. Got that installed and all buttoned up.
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#26
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Got the new radiator installed. Made up AN fittings for the power steering lines. Found out that the new pump does not come with flow valve. Ordered new flow valve and installed. Had to find hoses for the radiator. Found the hoses and got them installed. Filled the motor with antifreeze. Plumbed the fuel to the rail. Installed the ECU. Ordered and installed a new lokar throttle cable. Installed trans dipstick. Filled the motor and the trans. Filled the tank with fuel. Did the initial setup on the terminator. Checked for leaks and started the motor in the car first time. Open headers was nice and loud. Had to add temporary extensions to the headers to get the Wideband to read right. And was able to finally back the car out under its own power. Which is always a good feeling.
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#27
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Built the relay and fuse panel. Relays are for low and high speed fan and for the fan on the trans cooler. Had to wire and terminate the relay panel. All outputs are fused separately. Signal wires go to the terminator to control the fans based on coolant temp and trans fluid temps. Got the cooling fan mounted. Using a windstar fan. 2 speed fan with the shroud. It actually fits well. Keeps the engine temps at idle in check perfectly on only low speed. I will know better once I can get out this spring and drive it. Fans good deal on rock auto less than a $100.00
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#28
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I can't read the 2 letter code on the block below the cylinder head...that would help identify what car the engine came out of. The head casting # appears to be 16...if correct, off of a 400. There's also a date code stamped into the block near the distributor(left side looking from the rear of the block). The casting # on the rear of the block(9790079?) 68 or 69 350.
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#29
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I cant get a better pic of the 2 letter code. Don't have access to the engine right now. Been out of town visiting family.
Before xmas got my new Pypes exhaust system in. Its the 70-72 with valance exit and cut outs with the x pipe. Also got the race pro mufflers. Ordered their 2.5" split tips as well. Got that all installed along with a set of electric cut outs. Sounds really good. Only issue I had were the clamps. kit came with regular exhaust clamps. And I got ten of them. Well there are more than 10 joints that require clamps. So I just ordered the correct number of band clamps and installed them. The fit is great. All I need to do is adjust the tailpipes a little I want the tips up in the valance cut outs. |
#30
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Also got the battery mount finished and bolted in. Need to finish installing proper cables and mounting breaker and fuses. Decided to change the front grille insert color. And installed the new cold air intake tube and filter. Worked on the cold start and idle tuning. Started working on installing a transmission line pressure transducer. Started to clean up the wiring under the hood and need to get car on a big lift and finish cleaning up the fuel lines and wiring under the car. And then get the range selector hooked up to the reverse lights as well. Also got all the other bulbs in the car swapped over to super bright LED bulbs and electronic flasher.
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#31
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Is your exhaust 2.5" from headers to tails? If so it's going to choke your horsepower goal
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Chris D 69 GTO Liberty Blue/dark blue T400, 9" w 3.50s, 3905lbs 461, 850 Holley, T2, KRE 310s, Comp HR288 w 165s, RA manifolds, 11.60@114, 1.58/60 The spare: 467, 850 Holley, T2, Edelbrock Dport 310cfm w RA manifolds, HFT 245/251D .561/.594L, 11.59@ 114, 1.57/ 60' |
#32
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Yes I do not disagree that is probably going to be the case. My goal will not be on all motor. Already looking for a new LSA blower for this fall or winter 2021 install. So I will see what can be made on this system. My issue was if I went 3" I did not see a system that guaranteed valence exit. And all the local shops cant do mandrel and would not do stainless. So I would wonder what the difference would be on open dumps? I know that the hellcats run 2.75" pipes. And if I cant get there on 2.5" then I will look at other options. And I might decide that 500ish is enough for me. I could I guess always change it to 3" up to the dumps then leave the rest but I guess we will see. Highest WHP car that I have ever owned/built was 398whp 325tq turbo 4 cylinder. So If this gets north of that maybe Ill be happy.............................. Probably not Maybe that's why I've owned 32 cars in 20 years of driving
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#33
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Size comparison from what was on the car when I got it to the new pipes system. Old exhaust was what the 350 was dyno'd on.
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#34
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Changed the headlights out on the car. Found some with better projection characteristics than what I had on there. Plus they have turns built in as well. Seem to work better and they have a way better light cut off. Changed the oil and filter again. Ran it through a couple heat cycles. Going to start going over connections and clean up more wiring. Probably going to order my vintage air next and work on getting that installed. Nothing but ice and snow here. So no real test drives yet. Hopefully we can get her out in a month or so. May have to fix the ramp into the garage cause the new exhaust might hit. Need to maybe extend it out. That way its less steep.
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#35
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Enjoyed reading your thread, lots of cool updated goodies.
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#36
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Thanks. Just trying to make her the way I would like. Want it to be my nice weather driver. Have a company vehicle and good car for my wife. But I want to have something different to drive around and enjoy.
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#37
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Got a few more updates going on. Found an idea on the center console from another forum. So going to give that a try and see how it turns out. Picked up some carbon from Rock West to make the top plate. Ordered a shift indicator from Lokar. Also got the shifter module from Dakota. It will integrate with the VHX gauges and the Lokar indicator. Plus will give me an output for the backup lights as well. Picked up a wireless charging pad for my Iphone and am going to graft that into the front pocket in the center console. Can't decide if I want the gloss or the dull side up on the center console. Also looks like I am going to be able to order the Vintage Air, rockers and hardened push rods this month as well. Hope I can get that all in before summer. Finished extending the ramp from the garage yesterday. Still not sure on the exhaust clearance from the ground. Edges of the cut outs are 2" lower than the trans pan. Just looks low to me. I have the x pipe touching the drive shaft at full droop. When under compression at ride height its about 2" above the x pipe.
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#38
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Have more things going on with the car. Got a bunch more parts showing up. Going to be a fun summer. LSA blower showed up. The new front drive showed up. Started getting the new center console installed. Got the supercharger lid. And continued working on the shifter plate.
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#39
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More stuff done
Got a few more things done. Got it up and running. A few more things to work on. HVAC controls came in. Vintage air will be here tomorrow. Will have to get that installed. Working on tuning. Then a trip to the dyno at some point. But running real strong at this point.
https://youtu.be/UilwHFq6YSA |
#40
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Well have had a lot of things that have been goin on. But have made progress on the car. Did finally make it to the dyno. Made a few pulls and got some good numbers. Developed a lifter noise. Tore it down found collapsed lifter. Installed new johnson Tie bar lifters and new push rods. Added head studs and a ported inlet for the LSA charger. Smaller pulley on new snout. Have not been to dyno since the upgrades. On the dyno was running only 12 degrees of WOT timing on pump. Making about 6 pounds of boost. If I can get the uploads figured out I will post more pics. But every time I try I am getting errors. The Dyno was WOT at 3200 and ran out to 6000. Torque was 400+ from 3700-5800 WHP was over 440 and had not peaked at 6000.
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