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Non Pontiac Motors in Pontiacs includes factory 403,305,350 Chevy, Buick V6, Also Pontiac Motors in non-Pontiacs! |
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#41
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I got the fuel pump wired and fired. No leaks and about 62psi. I had fired the engine on starting fluid and all cylinder fired (verified with IR temp gun on headers). So I figured it would fire right up once I got the fuel system charged. Nope! Only #7 was firing. This is a high mileage 5.3 that has been sitting a long time. The fuel logs were pretty nasty when I flushed them out. Classic rotten gas. So, I checked to make sure all of the injectors had 12volts and grounds were pulsing. I'm getting a handle on this new engine troubleshooting game! I removed all of the injectors and tested them with a power supply. As expected, only the #7 clicked. I drilled holes in cardboard so the injectors would be vertical. Filled them up with carb cleaner and let them soak for a couple of hours. No improvement. When I went to A&P school, one of my instructors told me a story about cleaning some Lycoming injectors. He had some that would NOT come clean. He had tried every available cleaner and solvent. One night he was cleaning his guns. He was using Hoppe's #9 nitro bore solvent. My dad used the same as I do. I even like the smell of it! Lol! So, he decide to soak the nozzles in it. Amazingly they came as clean as new! I've had a bottle of it in my shop ever since. If you soak brass parts in it overnight, they look bright as new. I soaked the 5.3 injectors in it. Within 15 minutes they started freeing up. Four started working so far. I still have three that are being stubborn. Might have to spring for three new ones. It only takes about ten minutes to throw it all back together. So I put it back together with three bad injectors. To my amazement, it started right up and idled! Couldn't even tell that three cylinders weren't firing. Can't wait to get all eight clicking.
I also made a billet mounting block to support the supply, and return, fuel line Last edited by JSchmitz; 06-02-2022 at 05:56 AM. |
#42
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Nice work on the mounting block and lines. You might get a spare injector connector and hit them with some power intermittently while they're soaking.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#43
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That's exactly how I got them working. Used my battery charger and my Fluke leads to hit them with juice until they started clicking and the solvent fed through them. Also ordered a cheap cleaning kit from Amazon. Comes with two sizes of power leads and a couple of adapters. The adapters are supposed to hold the injector and take the spray tube from a can of cleaner. The leads work great. The injector fits the adapter. But the hole for the spray tube is way too big. Still gotta mess with that some more. Might just make a billet one. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOOL-Inject...a-897935207641 |
#44
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If you can find it, aerokroil is a very good penetrant for unsticking things. Though honestly, if they're stuck that badly, replacing them may be a better long term plan.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#45
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Ok. I'll check that stuff out. I ordered three new ones. I'll keep trying to free these up as an experiment though. I figure if the coil is good you should be able to clean them out and use them. We'll see how my theory plays out. lol
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#46
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If the sealing surface is pitted from rust they may never seal completely when closed even if they free up. I'd make sure they hold pressure afterwards if you get them unstuck.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#47
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Good point. I would normally just buy new. But trying to minimize investment in this high mileage engine until I get it tested out a little. Thanks for your suggestions!
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#48
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I can pressure test them with a rubber tip air gun and some soap solution I'm thinking. Quick and easy...
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#49
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Anything to have confidence that they're not leaking fuel into your engine.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#50
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I started it again last night. Firing on all 8!!! I guess soaking in gas after the cleaning attempt was enough to free them up.
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#51
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Car is about ready for a test drive. I have a few more things to figure out. The cheap engine is smoking quite a bit. Lol! Also have a weird chirping noise when I rev it up. Hope it's not a bad lifter or bearing. The oil pan looked good when I removed it for the swap. Has great oil pressure. Gonna put the front seats in and bleed the brakes tonight. I struggled to decide where to put my engine fault code light. I ended up putting it in the three gauge panel under the dash.
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#52
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Cool stuff. Let us know how the test drive goes.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#53
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Thanks! Will do.
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#54
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Successfully completed two short test drives. Only about 2 miles each time. I'm having sporadic idle problems. I suspect it's the revived injectors acting up. Sometimes the car fires and dies several times in a row. Then if I open the throttle a little it will fire and run. So I think the injectors may be leaking and flooding it. Also wants to die in gear sometimes. Car runs good down the road though. Obviously no race car with a stock 5.3. Need to data log, and look at the plugs, this evening. Hopefully get an idea of what's going on. I have a minor suspicion that there could be a wiring problem. I replaced a cheap remote fuse and relay panel with a better one. When I went to fire it up it died a couple of times. Had never done that before. The realized that I forgot to hook the MAF back up. I hooked it up and it started fine. Well the problem continues. Will do some voltage checks also.
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#55
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I saw this on Holley's website. Seems like a pretty good deal: https://www.holley.com/products/clea...s/parts/830101 Thought about buying it for the future. Thoughts?
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#56
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Congrats on having it moving under its own power. I think you'll be disappointed with that short runner manifold in a street car. Holley makes a high ram and I think also a medium runner length ram and IMHO they'd be more what you want. It would look cool though!
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#57
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Ok. Thanks for the perspective. I'm not educated on these manifolds yet. Sounds like a pass. |
#58
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It's a stereotypical short runner vs long runner deal. Short runners are typically good in the upper rpm ranges, long runners typically good for lower rpm ranges. I think if you look up Richard Holdener YouTube channel he tests these various Holley intakes on the dyno on the same engine.
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
#59
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#60
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Also worth mentioning, a lot of people have made big power with the truck manifolds. They're not pretty, but they work well. They can be "shaved" and will have a slightly better appearance. More streamlined looking anyway...
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'65 Tempest 467 3650# 11.30@120.31 |
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