[dataway]

I'd like to get started taking the GTO body down to bare metal over the very cold winter in my tightly sealed shop. Is there a "temporary" primer I can use to protect the bare metal between now and when I would get it outside to spray with epoxy? Something that will easily wipe off with solvent? It's not a problem using a rattle can in the shop, but shooting something like epoxy in the shop while it's closed up is not an option in the winter.

[nytrainer]

Johnny how about using Ospho. I used it for short term protection and since I use SPI epoxy it’s the only “acid” product that they recommend. You’ll need to reactivate the Ospho protected panel(s) by reapplying the Ospho solution and then throughly rinsing when you’re ready to work the panel.
Cleaner, better and easier, IMO, than rattle canning panels and later removing that.
Check out the SPI forum as there are many posts regarding Ospho.

[rustedgoat]

In long term storage I have different body parts that were treated with Ospho, Must For Rust or a phosphoric acid solution. Some of these sat for 10+ years nothing really advancing, but they were in a safe dry storage (basement). I would just pick one of the treatments and go with it. Definitely decide what epoxy you are using and check compatibility first.

[1965gp]

Eastwood has a new roll on primer and sealer. I just watched a video on it- seems exactly what you are looking for

[mrennie]

I would strongly recommend not using phosphoric acid treatment if you plan to spray epoxy, especially SPI...you *may* have adhesion issues later. Many epoxy primers contain zinc phosphate and it reacts with the film left on steel after treating it with phosphoric acid. I know SPI is OK with Ospho in some applications but the potential for disaster it still there.

Using phosphoric acid on my bare metal is the reason I had to completely strip my body and other panels back down to bare metal 1/2 way through my restoration, as I started finding small areas where the primer was not bonded, and when I sanded it off the metal had started to darken where the acid film was interacting with the epoxy.

I had started out using R-M epoxy primer then switched to SPI and didn't realize there were recommendations against using phosphoric acid, and learned the very hard & expensive way. I am a stickler for reading the data sheets and am still upset that I missed this.

[carcrazy]

I've used Ospho and Must For Rust a few times without any issues. You do have to verify there will be no compatibility issues with the epoxy you intend to use.

[dataway]

I've been using Ospho for quite some time on various areas that will not get exterior paint .... like interior roof, seat springs, nooks and crannies etc. But the SPI warning scared me away from it for exterior use.

There is a interior roof panel I did with it several years ago, and yes it still has rust free bare "looking" metal on it. Did wonders removing/converting the surface rust.

Hopefully I will not be talking long term preservation ... would like to get the body exterior in epoxy in the spring/summer next year.

I'll check out the SPI forums.

[dataway]

I remember using a lacquer based primer back in the day that you could just wipe off with thinner if you wanted to.

[n20ta2]

I would look into a quality spray bomb easy sand primer like sem high build. You will need to completely remove it later so don't build it up heavy, it won't provide 100 percent protection like epoxy but it should stop flash rust until you sand it off as long as you don't get it wet. I have used ospho before but I completely neutralized it with water and baking soda with a scotchbrite before I primed it. I have heard of some major horror stories with paint adhesion issues so I'm leary of using it on anything but pitted rust myself.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by dataway

I remember using a lacquer based primer back in the day that you could just wipe off with thinner if you wanted to.

Normal paint supply stores - i don't think they can even sell it anymore.

But have seen it on shelves at Walmart and AutoZone (lacquer primer) - believe it was rustoleum brand in quarts. In their "body work supplies" section.

A sherwin-williams jobber may still have Jet-Seal primer/sealer.
It's a non-catalyst enamel based primer or sealer that would wipe off with lacquer thinner.
An enamel product will probably leave a lingering odor in your shop longer than a lacquer product also.

Another option is just cheap flat black spray paint
since all you are looking for is a quick temporary "shop coat"

[dataway]

Good point about the flat black ... I use it for temporary coating in the shop all the time.