[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

There are screws that you can use to replace the studs, they are for windshield reveal/surround molding, but it's the same stud size.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Repla...iABEgLatvD_BwE

Someone should make templates for this....

Corner moldings, take old ones, hack off the studs, and use it as a guide to mark. You can drill thru the spot where the stud was and line it up perfectly on the quarter. Because of the shape of the quarter, it kinda only fits in one small area. use the 1/4 glass molding as a reference, with the intermediate piece stuck on it. If you have old ones, you can hack the insert piece off and just butt the pieces together, and tape them in place.

Once the corner pieces are in, you can lay out the rest, do a tape line, and mark the holes.

This is exactly the way I did mine and what I tried to describe earlier in post #3. In fact, I probably still have the pieces that I drilled the holes in at the stud locations.

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

The pot metal rear corner pieces have the studs molded in so it's hard to get the right location for the holes on the car. You can't lay them down on the car with the studs in place.
I had to use a scrap pair and grind the studs off and then drill the locations out. That way, I was able to lay the pieces down on the car and use the holes for locating drill points in the quarters.

Once you get these 'spears' located, it's just a matter of connecting the dots between them with regular trim clips.

A couple of recommendations for using the screw in studs for the clips-

1. Drill the holes just large enough for the point of the screw to start. You want them to be very tight when you screw them so down you force thread them into the sheetmetal..
2. Spray the screws with epoxy primer and when dry, right before screwing them in, dip the threads in JB weld. Wipe the excess JB weld off the sheetmetal once the screw is in place.

I know...I can be anal sometimes.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

A couple of recommendations for using the screw in studs for the clips-

1. Drill the holes just large enough for the point of the screw to start. You want them to be very tight when you screw them so down you force thread them into the sheetmetal..
2. Spray the screws with epoxy primer and when dry, right before screwing them in, dip the threads in JB weld. Wipe the excess JB weld off the sheetmetal once the screw is in place.

I used clear nail polish on the holes, and dipped the screws in it beforehand, so I'm just as anal!

The clips make a good guide.

Once you have the corner pieces and the 1/4 window trim on, hold the trim piece up and mark a line with a wax pencil. You can put tape on the whole area of the panel where the trim will be, and mark that if you want.

Draw along the bottom edge of the trim on to the tape, and the lower edge of the clip would be on that line. You can tape the clips up there, and then mark thru the clip hole that the stud passes through.

You can even leave the tape up there while you drill, and test fit the trim. Have extra drill bits on hand!

If one or two clips are off, mark them again 1" in either direction of the previous hole and try again. After, just fill the hole with your choice of color RTV. It's high enough in the trunk that you won't see it easy. You can wipe the RTV inside on the trunk side so it's smooth, and just touch it up with whatever trunk paint you are using.

Buy a bag of those self-cutting stamped stud nuts, if one doesn't work right or distorts, pitch it, and use another.

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[HWYSTR455]

If you leave the clips a little loose, there will be a little allowable movement, which helps. The clips really don't need to be that tight against the body, they really are just to kinda hold the trim in place. The trim is 'captured' between the two pieces on the ends.

I think mine were a little loose because I test fitted with the tape.

Before final assembly, push the trim piece on & off the quarter window and V pieces, so you're not trying to do it on the car. They are tight.


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[Greg Reid]

If you do the 4 'anchor' pieces...ie, the two potmetal pieces and the two curved 'checkmark' shaped pieces at the quarter window....that is, get the holes drilled so that you can actually mount them with the appropriate screws or twist nuts, as the case may be, you can then capture all of the trim pieces between them with no studs or clips in place. The corner pieces will hold them there. It will then look complete but they won't be actually mounted yet.
With all of the trim held on by those four pieces, just trace the outlines. Mine was in primer so I just used a lead pencil.
Once you have the outline traced, remove it all and drill your small holes exactly halfway between to two traced lines for each stud you plan to use.
The photos posted earlier will guide you as to how many on each run.

[HWYSTR455]

Yup! We think a lot alike!

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[killakev]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

There are screws that you can use to replace the studs, they are for windshield reveal/surround molding, but it's the same stud size.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Repla...iABEgLatvD_BwE

Someone should make templates for this....

Corner moldings, take old ones, hack off the studs, and use it as a guide to mark. You can drill thru the spot where the stud was and line it up perfectly on the quarter. Because of the shape of the quarter, it kinda only fits in one small area. use the 1/4 glass molding as a reference, with the intermediate piece stuck on it. If you have old ones, you can hack the insert piece off and just butt the pieces together, and tape them in place.

Once the corner pieces are in, you can lay out the rest, do a tape line, and mark the holes. Start with like one in the middle, if it doesn't work out once all are in, you can just try again offset front/rear by like an inch, glue the unused holes up, they will be covered up anyway.

You get the idea. Between the quarters and the 1/4 window pieces, that 'U' shape trim only goes on in a very small area. If you get what I'm saying.

I had to do after my car was painted, was not happy. I dropped it off at the paint shop and specifically said I was going to run a top....

.

I can drill out the original holes for that transition molding from quarter to rear, drop that molding in place then in order to line up and mark the remaining moldings.

[killakev]

Thanks guys for you insights!

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by killakev

I can drill out the original holes for that transition molding from quarter to rear, drop that molding in place then in order to line up and mark the remaining moldings.

That's right...but keep in mind that you need to put in place the ones that attach right behind the quarter glass also. I call them the 'checkmark' pieces... They attach with a screw near the top and a clip near the bottom. None of the lines are exactly straight so you need to connect those two (rear corner and 'checkmark') with the slightly curved sail panel piece connects them.
Once you've done that on both sides, the long piece that goes beneath the backglass can be placed.
The three pieces for one side are pictured below- Front to back is the 'checkmark', the slightly curved sail panel piece and finally, the potmetal rear corner piece. Start with the checkmark piece because it will only fit properly when in the correct place and therefore be your guide for the side and rear corner pieces....

[killakev]

Yep - pretty straight forward. Thanks to all for help in clarifying. I'm guess this clip set from Ames #H201F are the inserts for the moldings with two studs for each corner of the rear window molding?

[killakev]

Clip at the bottom of the "check mark" piece? Looks like a hole top and bottom of the molding for screws.

[Greg Reid]

Some have two holes for two screws and some have one hole and one clip. I had forgotten that but now that you mention it, I think I ran across that. Not sure why. I seem to recall maybe pulling a pair off a '70 and there was some difference.
Post a pic of your pieces if you can.

[Greg Reid]

I found the screw on example. Being the first year of the body style, I suppose to screw on version could be correct for the 68. The ones on my car may be a later cleaned up design that uses a retainer that snaps into the screw hole.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

[killakev]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Some have two holes for two screws and some have one hole and one clip. I had forgotten that but now that you mention it, I think I ran across that. Not sure why. I seem to recall maybe pulling a pair off a '70 and there was some difference.
Post a pic of your pieces if you can.

I know that 68-69 are a slightly different shape than the 70-72. Going to look at each style to see if they both have two screw holes each.