[92GTA]

My new 535 is going to have the Canton 15-452 road race oil pan and on Canton's website it says the k-member may need clearancing for Firebirds.

Anyone here with a 1969 that can give me some insight into what I made need to do in order to clearance my k-member for this Canton oil pan? I still have the factory one, haven't gone to an aftermarket subframe yet and didn't want to for another couple years.

It's an IA-2 aluminum block with Butler poly motor mounts if that makes a difference.

Thanks!

[JLMounce]

If you take a look at how the factory oil pan sits in relation to the k-member, you'll see that it arcs downwards away from the back of hte k-member. The canton pan will have a 90 degree drop in the sump area. You'll typically need to trim up the center of the k-member where the pan will want to sit.

I haven't done it myself, but if you're under there it's pretty obvious what you'll have to do.

[92GTA]

Got it. Thanks, I'll be prepared for that when it arrives. Haven't seen the Canton pan in person yet. Wasn't sure of hammering or cutting was going to be involved lol. Sounds like I'll need to dust off my saws-all.

[JLMounce]

Did you go with the standard capacity or the high capacity pan?

More than likely you'll have to cut. A saws-all is gonna be rough work on that hardened steel k-member. I'd procure a high speed drill and some chop-off wheels.

[92GTA]

The 452 is the standard capacity @ 6qts. There is a 450 shallow version that's still 6qts but Canton says it will not fit a Firebird or GTO period so even though I'm lowered, I skipped it. The bottom of my SFI Quicktime bell housing is the lowest point on my car with the stock oil pan right now, I'm guessing the 452 won't be any lower. I also plan on fashioning some kind of skid plate.

So the 444 t-sump pan I discounted all together because of header clearance issues and didn't seem worth it for only an extra qt of capacity. I have an Accusump in my trunk, dual oil filters (bypass filter setup), and an oil cooler w/thermostat setup in front so I have a ton of extra capacity anyway. I'm having custom headers made but still didn't see the t-pan as worth it.

I have a good corded 1/2 drill with cobalt bits and I do have some cutting discs. I'll probably buy some grinding discs as well to clean it up before sealing it.

Hell, I even looked for some dry sump options but didn't see any non-bespoke options online. I figure since I'm just doing open track days and basic HPDE stuff I'll make due with the 452 pan.

[JLMounce]

Would love to see the progress on it. This is something I've been researching as well.

The factory pan setup with an overfill is typically fine for auto-x style events, but I'd like to road race this car at some point. It's going to need better oil control akin to your setup.

[tom s]

I have one on a stock block that was in my 69,no issue diff from the stock aftermarket pan for me.Still have the engine on a dolly in my garage.Tom

[92GTA]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Would love to see the progress on it. This is something I've been researching as well.

The factory pan setup with an overfill is typically fine for auto-x style events, but I'd like to road race this car at some point. It's going to need better oil control akin to your setup.

I'll post some updates this fall. I tend to post way more on the PT forum. I don't plan on any auto-x cross. Just not my thing, did it for over a decade in PCA. I'm setting up for road race tracks. Willow Springs and Button Willow are my home tracks. I'm mostly looking to do open track days like SCCA TNiA and TT. If I do an event like USCA does, auto-x will just be a necessary evil lol.

[92GTA]

Originally Posted by tom s

I have one on a stock block that was in my 69,no issue diff from the stock aftermarket pan for me.Still have the engine on a dolly in my garage.Tom

That's great to know, certainly a best case scenario.

[tom s]

FYI,I retained the stock dip stick.Skip Fix on this site gave me the heads up on how to do it.Tom

[chuckies76ta]

I put a 505 IA2 in our 68 Firebird. I made a couple of 1/8" Flat plates and installed between the motor mount and the motor mount bracket. Gave me just what I need for clearance. I'm running the same Canton oil pan. I do have an after market fiberglass hood though.

[JLMounce]

Not a bad idea there chuckies76ta. Unfortunately, those types of hoods kill a lot of across the hood visibility needed for auto-x and road race applications where seeing your corner entry, apex and exit is critical. us guys that turn also need to keep the weight in the car as low as possible, so we'd want to keep the engine mounted as low as possible.

Using that same methodology though, if there's room, fabricating a plate to move the engine backwards may actually work well. You may gain the needed clearance on the k-member and moving the weight towards the center of the car, without moving it up, will improve rotation in the car.

[92GTA]

I'd have to fabricate a custom firewall to move anything back lol. A single mm and I'll be punching holes in the windshield out of frustration trying to get at that top passenger side trans bell housing bolt if I ever need to remove the SFI bell housing in-car - which is a must for servicing the clutch.

I do have a Bowler trans tunnel patch ready to go in (I'm not happy with the stock shifter location being so far forward, gonna flip my Magnum shifter rewards). So who knows, maybe things will escalate to that prior to repainting.

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

In running the 15-400 on my 69, the kick out is tight fit for starter, IMI starter fits perfect, the Jegs one wouldn't fit.

[92GTA]

I decided to change tack and do what I should anyway given the investment and intended use, go dry sump. This is the one I'll be running on my aluminum IAII - http://www.allpontiac.com/segmentedsump.html