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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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This is exactly the way I did mine and what I tried to describe earlier in post #3. In fact, I probably still have the pieces that I drilled the holes in at the stud locations. Quote:
1. Drill the holes just large enough for the point of the screw to start. You want them to be very tight when you screw them so down you force thread them into the sheetmetal.. 2. Spray the screws with epoxy primer and when dry, right before screwing them in, dip the threads in JB weld. Wipe the excess JB weld off the sheetmetal once the screw is in place. I know...I can be anal sometimes.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 12-11-2020 at 09:50 AM. |
#22
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The clips make a good guide. Once you have the corner pieces and the 1/4 window trim on, hold the trim piece up and mark a line with a wax pencil. You can put tape on the whole area of the panel where the trim will be, and mark that if you want. Draw along the bottom edge of the trim on to the tape, and the lower edge of the clip would be on that line. You can tape the clips up there, and then mark thru the clip hole that the stud passes through. You can even leave the tape up there while you drill, and test fit the trim. Have extra drill bits on hand! If one or two clips are off, mark them again 1" in either direction of the previous hole and try again. After, just fill the hole with your choice of color RTV. It's high enough in the trunk that you won't see it easy. You can wipe the RTV inside on the trunk side so it's smooth, and just touch it up with whatever trunk paint you are using. Buy a bag of those self-cutting stamped stud nuts, if one doesn't work right or distorts, pitch it, and use another. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
The Following User Says Thank You to HWYSTR455 For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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If you leave the clips a little loose, there will be a little allowable movement, which helps. The clips really don't need to be that tight against the body, they really are just to kinda hold the trim in place. The trim is 'captured' between the two pieces on the ends.
I think mine were a little loose because I test fitted with the tape. Before final assembly, push the trim piece on & off the quarter window and V pieces, so you're not trying to do it on the car. They are tight. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#24
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If you do the 4 'anchor' pieces...ie, the two potmetal pieces and the two curved 'checkmark' shaped pieces at the quarter window....that is, get the holes drilled so that you can actually mount them with the appropriate screws or twist nuts, as the case may be, you can then capture all of the trim pieces between them with no studs or clips in place. The corner pieces will hold them there. It will then look complete but they won't be actually mounted yet.
With all of the trim held on by those four pieces, just trace the outlines. Mine was in primer so I just used a lead pencil. Once you have the outline traced, remove it all and drill your small holes exactly halfway between to two traced lines for each stud you plan to use. The photos posted earlier will guide you as to how many on each run.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#25
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Yup! We think a lot alike!
.
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
The Following User Says Thank You to HWYSTR455 For This Useful Post: | ||
#26
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#27
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Thanks guys for you insights!
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#28
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Once you've done that on both sides, the long piece that goes beneath the backglass can be placed. The three pieces for one side are pictured below- Front to back is the 'checkmark', the slightly curved sail panel piece and finally, the potmetal rear corner piece. Start with the checkmark piece because it will only fit properly when in the correct place and therefore be your guide for the side and rear corner pieces....
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 12-15-2020 at 01:49 PM. |
#29
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Yep - pretty straight forward. Thanks to all for help in clarifying. I'm guess this clip set from Ames #H201F are the inserts for the moldings with two studs for each corner of the rear window molding?
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#30
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Clip at the bottom of the "check mark" piece? Looks like a hole top and bottom of the molding for screws.
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#31
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Some have two holes for two screws and some have one hole and one clip. I had forgotten that but now that you mention it, I think I ran across that. Not sure why. I seem to recall maybe pulling a pair off a '70 and there was some difference.
Post a pic of your pieces if you can.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#32
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I found the screw on example. Being the first year of the body style, I suppose to screw on version could be correct for the 68. The ones on my car may be a later cleaned up design that uses a retainer that snaps into the screw hole.
Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#33
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