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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Block sanding !
Block sanding sucks. I am painting the race car over the winter. Right now i am in block sanding the filler stage. I welded new quarter panel skins on both sides and fixed some rust in the lower corner of the doors. These skins where very low quality as Ames stated in the catalog. Had to skim the whole panel with filler. Had to skim the doors because someone must have sandblasted them at one point in the cars life. Also had to skim the roof because it looks like someone jumped up and down in the middle of the roof. I am starting to remember why I decided to make it a race car 25 years ago.
The car is going to probably remain white. Unless a color jumps out at me.The car was originally a black car. I am blocking to it perfection just in case I decide to go black. I forgot how bad the dust is, I am at least getting a good arm work out. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Mike S For This Useful Post: | ||
#2
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Mud on, mud off, Grasshoppa.
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#3
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I know it's weird...but I kinda like block sanding. I like to choose a sunny, windy day and go outside in the driveway...an inside radius or compound curve does suck though....
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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How well do those long bendy blocks work?
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#5
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One thing that might help your dust situation a bit, I shop vac the panel instead of blowing it off. Keeps the dust from flying all over the shop!
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
The Following User Says Thank You to n20ta2 For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Durablocks. I like 'em a lot.
Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
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I have been using an assortment of durablocks and one 16" hard block for the large flats. I am thinking of starting a progress thread.
I put temporary plastic up to try and contain the dust. It does work somwhat. |
#8
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I like the soft sanders for contoured sections they seen to work great especially when you get to the finer grits
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
#9
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I like the palm sander for smaller areas also. Just keep it moving and nothing too coarse on the grit or you'll wind up digging yourself a hole..
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#10
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Yes it sucks. And another vote for durablocks. I found using soft foam blocks (had some stuff that was packed around computer) helped on curved surfaces.
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12.84 @ 106.89 with street radials. 12.63 @ 108.39 on drag radials. |
#11
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I've also found that various diameters of rubber hose can work well on inside radiused areas with adhesive backed paper. Radiator hose, heater hose, etc.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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If we all lived in an airport hanger together we could Amish Barn Raise block sand cars
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The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Weather permitting I sand, grind, prime and etc outside when I can just to keep inside spaces semi clean.
Body work and “clean” do not go hand in hand!! Dura Blocks and self adhesive paper are wonderful IMHO Jerry |
#14
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I had been blocking a 62 catalina ragtop for most of 2020. For most of it the long adjustable flexible sanders worked well. (these are the ones that you can stiffen with metal rods) But the body line extending most of the length of the car I have not decided what to use yet.
Only have a couple spots that need some light filler work, mostly just getting it smooth at this stage.
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
#15
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Dura Bloc makes a half round block that’s probably 12” long. Before that I used straight piece of radiator hose for years. Works just as well and cheap$$ too
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#16
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Quote:
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#17
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I have a couple days left sanding the Slick Sand (spray on filler). Using a dry coat and love it. Makes it real easy to see imperfections. I kind of feel I am wasting my time getting it perfect only to paint it white.
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#18
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Are you using that over an epoxy primer?
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#19
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Smoke a fat one...and blocking primer isn’t so bad...
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#20
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Yes, I sprayed epoxy before the slick sand. Have the body, doors and front fenders in final primer. Just have the hood and trunk to finish up. I don't think one thing on this car was flat. Now I am dealing with fiberglass hood and trunk lid.
I plan on painting it apart then putting it back together. Should be OK with a solid white. Can't wait to be done with the dust. Dust get everywhere. Even with plastic closing in one bay. Going to take me a week to clean the garage. |
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